View Poll Results: How does your brake pedal feel?
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UCF21: How does your brake pedal feel?
03-15-08, 03:22 AM
#47
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The LS pedal has always been made to be responsive but never quick to react. Hopefully common sense would have ruled out the brake fluid by changing it prior to looking at a repair over maintenance.
My fluid is light yellow as it has been for 2 years and the pedal has always been the same.The pedal issue is more on the 95 and up LS as the previous one just is a soft pedal and needs the fluid changed to return to normal.
KISS rule. Keep it simple stupid
My fluid is light yellow as it has been for 2 years and the pedal has always been the same.The pedal issue is more on the 95 and up LS as the previous one just is a soft pedal and needs the fluid changed to return to normal.
KISS rule. Keep it simple stupid
03-16-08, 12:06 AM
#50
the fluid itself doesnt firm up the brake, all the different fluids will perform the same under the same conditions, only the above fluids will work better longer under higher heat while absorbing less water
03-16-08, 12:45 AM
#51
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It is a different base for the fluid dot 5 .
It is not compatible with the old stuff and you have to flush the system , then re flush the whole thing again after . It works great if you think you will get near the boiling temp of your brake fluid. Hydraulic transfer is the same no matter what fluid is used. Their is no compression , it only changes the hygroscopic properties.
It is not compatible with the old stuff and you have to flush the system , then re flush the whole thing again after . It works great if you think you will get near the boiling temp of your brake fluid. Hydraulic transfer is the same no matter what fluid is used. Their is no compression , it only changes the hygroscopic properties.
05-02-08, 05:37 PM
#54
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I have a 97 LS400, the pad was nice and firm until recently.
I was told the master cylinder needs to be replaced, but after that, it is getting a bit soft now. Right after starting the car and changing gear from parking to reverse, I could clearly feel the click under the clutch (I didn't notice this at all before the replacement). I also hear the hollow sound when I push the paddle. Rear brake is brand new and front break was replaced 15k miles before and should be ok.
Not sure why the master cylinder change could cause this. I may follow the previous post and see if I could adjust the nut to make it feel better.
I was told the master cylinder needs to be replaced, but after that, it is getting a bit soft now. Right after starting the car and changing gear from parking to reverse, I could clearly feel the click under the clutch (I didn't notice this at all before the replacement). I also hear the hollow sound when I push the paddle. Rear brake is brand new and front break was replaced 15k miles before and should be ok.
Not sure why the master cylinder change could cause this. I may follow the previous post and see if I could adjust the nut to make it feel better.
05-03-08, 12:13 PM
#56
The pedal in my '98 feels like the power brakes in old '60's era GM vehicles. It's kind of hard to describe, but the pedal feels "floaty"....there's really no "feel" for when the brakes start to squeeze. Just the sensation of the car slowing. I would say it feels as if there's too much power assist. Doesn't take much to get the car to stop...very little pedal effort.
Having been around cars for over 40 years, I'd say there's nothing wrong with them, They just feel different from all the other cars I've owned or still own. Except for my long gone '63 Bonneville. Very similar brake pedal feel.
Having been around cars for over 40 years, I'd say there's nothing wrong with them, They just feel different from all the other cars I've owned or still own. Except for my long gone '63 Bonneville. Very similar brake pedal feel.
04-28-09, 11:36 PM
#59
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Well here is an update , i changed the rear caliper dust covers and seals. Now the pedal is stiffer . It is slowly getting better and better as each day goes by which also rules out brake fluid , as well as the rear lines being braided stainless steel which would have also provided instant and linear results.
Why is it slowly getting better ,because the pads are now bedding in the rotors properly from pull pressure being applied to the piston.
So , i bought an set of oem rear caliper rebuild kits. (BTW , i have an extra one for sale to do both rear calipers )
Comes with new dust covers and it snap ring ,an inner piston seal , some pink grease , new slider boot covers , brake line gaskets , bleeder cap,
I replaced the rear lines with stainless steel ones as well as EBC red pads (replaced 2 months ago ,very little change in braking)
My sliders where not in the best shape and one was seized .
Both rear rotors were showing the signs of non linear pressure by having uneven rotor wear.
I am also changing the front ones , but it is one thing at a time to make sure cause and effect.
So if you pedal is not as good as it could be ,change the seals for the pistons starting with the rears as well as possible the slider bolts also.
Best braking upgrade i have done , my car does have 350 000 km so things like this will wear. Most of my dust covers were cracked so it was letting air by pass the seals causing less pressure on the pistons .
Why is it slowly getting better ,because the pads are now bedding in the rotors properly from pull pressure being applied to the piston.
So , i bought an set of oem rear caliper rebuild kits. (BTW , i have an extra one for sale to do both rear calipers )
Comes with new dust covers and it snap ring ,an inner piston seal , some pink grease , new slider boot covers , brake line gaskets , bleeder cap,
I replaced the rear lines with stainless steel ones as well as EBC red pads (replaced 2 months ago ,very little change in braking)
My sliders where not in the best shape and one was seized .
Both rear rotors were showing the signs of non linear pressure by having uneven rotor wear.
I am also changing the front ones , but it is one thing at a time to make sure cause and effect.
So if you pedal is not as good as it could be ,change the seals for the pistons starting with the rears as well as possible the slider bolts also.
Best braking upgrade i have done , my car does have 350 000 km so things like this will wear. Most of my dust covers were cracked so it was letting air by pass the seals causing less pressure on the pistons .