98 LS400, Transmission Hard Shifting
#77
Spray it lightly with a material like PB-Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it sit dripping on a paper towel for at least an hour. Now use two open end wrenches locked on each, so the cable shaft does not get twisted and damaged.
If one nut is free and the other is not, wrap a few layers of paper towel or rubber glove over the threads, clamp with a small vice grips or standard pliers.
Adjust the cable so that when you touch the cable nothing moves, but when you press with a stiff finger, the mechanism moves as soon as the cable bends downward.
You don't want the mechanism opening from engine vibration at idle or from road bumps.
If one nut is free and the other is not, wrap a few layers of paper towel or rubber glove over the threads, clamp with a small vice grips or standard pliers.
Adjust the cable so that when you touch the cable nothing moves, but when you press with a stiff finger, the mechanism moves as soon as the cable bends downward.
You don't want the mechanism opening from engine vibration at idle or from road bumps.
#78
Update: This morning was the first somewhat cold start. The overnight temps were in the mid 50s F.
The car idled at 1K rpm on start up. I let is warm up about a minute, put it in drive and then drove to work just now. Nice and smooth, with 19 MPG, in stop and go traffic about 8 miles.
Was running late, so no rpm checks once I got there. Don't want to get another, are you late because you were fiddling with your car again? Lol.
Anyway, I've been using the valet key, with my uncut flip key as a fob, on the same ring.
I kind of like it. I know the valet key won't break, and once I get a cut flip key, I can keep that one in my purse when I valet the car. The credit card emergency key in my cash wallet in case I get locked out.
Everyone says the flip key is too big and gets in the way of the wiper stalk, so 99.9% of the time I won't use it in the ignition, but just as an electronics activator, so to speak.
Also, while on trips or with weather you don't want to be stranded in, I know the valet key will start the car, no matter if the master transmitter has a dead battery or damaged due to a broken case.
My broken and glued original master key is with my sister for emergencies.
ATTENTION TO THOSE THAT THINK THEIR 98-2000 STARTS TOO SLOW:
Ever since I sealed that air injection port on top of the engine with Permatex, it takes half the time to crank and start! It is not as quick as my 1990 LS, but definitely noticeable.
I always wait for the steering wheel to get into position, so that has not changed anything if you might be wondering if I was giving it more time to pair with the remote.
Leaking air injector port : 3.0-4.0 seconds of cranking.
Sealed air injector port : 1.5-2.0 seconds of cranking.
FYI, those valet keys are reasonably priced online from the dealers and you won't hear anymore B.S. about, "It's not a Lexus key, it will destroy our equipment and burn down the dealership..."
The car idled at 1K rpm on start up. I let is warm up about a minute, put it in drive and then drove to work just now. Nice and smooth, with 19 MPG, in stop and go traffic about 8 miles.
Was running late, so no rpm checks once I got there. Don't want to get another, are you late because you were fiddling with your car again? Lol.
Anyway, I've been using the valet key, with my uncut flip key as a fob, on the same ring.
I kind of like it. I know the valet key won't break, and once I get a cut flip key, I can keep that one in my purse when I valet the car. The credit card emergency key in my cash wallet in case I get locked out.
Everyone says the flip key is too big and gets in the way of the wiper stalk, so 99.9% of the time I won't use it in the ignition, but just as an electronics activator, so to speak.
Also, while on trips or with weather you don't want to be stranded in, I know the valet key will start the car, no matter if the master transmitter has a dead battery or damaged due to a broken case.
My broken and glued original master key is with my sister for emergencies.
ATTENTION TO THOSE THAT THINK THEIR 98-2000 STARTS TOO SLOW:
Ever since I sealed that air injection port on top of the engine with Permatex, it takes half the time to crank and start! It is not as quick as my 1990 LS, but definitely noticeable.
I always wait for the steering wheel to get into position, so that has not changed anything if you might be wondering if I was giving it more time to pair with the remote.
Leaking air injector port : 3.0-4.0 seconds of cranking.
Sealed air injector port : 1.5-2.0 seconds of cranking.
FYI, those valet keys are reasonably priced online from the dealers and you won't hear anymore B.S. about, "It's not a Lexus key, it will destroy our equipment and burn down the dealership..."
Last edited by PlatinumV8; 06-19-15 at 06:29 AM. Reason: grammar and spelling
#82
As you can see with mine, the same kind of thin gasket, but no recess. With the two screws out, it slides around on the port like a hockey puck on a sheet of ice.
I wonder if the Celsior has a European spec engine/emissions design? If your gasket sits in a recess it will be much easier to accomplish complete sealing. Interesting indeed!
I wonder if the Celsior has a European spec engine/emissions design? If your gasket sits in a recess it will be much easier to accomplish complete sealing. Interesting indeed!
#83
Very neat.
I have now done 3 98-00 LS400s using some sort of throttle body cleaner on the two larger and 8 smaller ports on the Throttle Body and it has gotten rid of the hesitation then harsh engagement on all three. This was discussed at length in another thread I believe. At this point, with the success I've been lucky enough to have with all three I'd say that anyone with a 98-00 that isn't solving their hesitation issues with this method might be experiencing some sort of user error. As far as the "low" idle in drive all of them idled at 400 when warm. So no fix there for now.
I like the idea of sealing the port. Be very cautious when tightening the two screws as they are not made to be tightened down so heavily. As far as a leak stemming from this port, I'm having a hard time seeing it.
Try this - start the car, remove the screws and then try to remove the top plate. It is very hard to move as it suctioned onto the throttle body via the vacuum created.
Especially with how dirty your port is there on the top you no doubt have buildup going on in those passage ways as well as the 8 smaller holes facing downward. I hope at this point the screws that were tightened down heavily won't strip out when you have to take them back out as those small holes and two major passage ways aren't getting any cleaner as the car ages.
All in all, I really respect that someone is trying to fix such a widespread problem for us 98-00 owners. As far as it not being air tight, not only is it hard to imagine with how hard the plate is getting suctioned onto the throttle body, if anything, it would make sense that it would increase the idle as more air is entering the equation. At least that is how it's been in the past with working on cars with vacuum leaks, never had a low idle because of it, only high idle.
Let's figure this out. Thank you for the extensive write-up and pictures.
Matt
I have now done 3 98-00 LS400s using some sort of throttle body cleaner on the two larger and 8 smaller ports on the Throttle Body and it has gotten rid of the hesitation then harsh engagement on all three. This was discussed at length in another thread I believe. At this point, with the success I've been lucky enough to have with all three I'd say that anyone with a 98-00 that isn't solving their hesitation issues with this method might be experiencing some sort of user error. As far as the "low" idle in drive all of them idled at 400 when warm. So no fix there for now.
I like the idea of sealing the port. Be very cautious when tightening the two screws as they are not made to be tightened down so heavily. As far as a leak stemming from this port, I'm having a hard time seeing it.
Try this - start the car, remove the screws and then try to remove the top plate. It is very hard to move as it suctioned onto the throttle body via the vacuum created.
Especially with how dirty your port is there on the top you no doubt have buildup going on in those passage ways as well as the 8 smaller holes facing downward. I hope at this point the screws that were tightened down heavily won't strip out when you have to take them back out as those small holes and two major passage ways aren't getting any cleaner as the car ages.
All in all, I really respect that someone is trying to fix such a widespread problem for us 98-00 owners. As far as it not being air tight, not only is it hard to imagine with how hard the plate is getting suctioned onto the throttle body, if anything, it would make sense that it would increase the idle as more air is entering the equation. At least that is how it's been in the past with working on cars with vacuum leaks, never had a low idle because of it, only high idle.
Let's figure this out. Thank you for the extensive write-up and pictures.
Matt
#85
Seal the port with Permatex, the above posters are correct. That cover needs to be sealed from outside atmosphere.
Matt,
My point is that my port is not smooth. It has deep machining grooves that travel from one edge to the other. With a glass hard gasket or no gasket as some have mentioned, vacuum was leaking.
With the fix in place rubber permatex, those grooves are now filled.
If you use a flat smooth gasket against a port that is smooth, but not flat, the same thing will happen, especially since there are only two attachment screws.
Also we are dealing with aluminum against steel. Their coefficient of thermal expansion is dramatically different.
As for over tightening the screws, the screw shows no aluminum galling on removal and the final torque was done by my girly hands with a short manual screwdriver. I could feel the FIP, snug down and ever so slightly compress.
The car does not rely on overwhelming vacuum from a running engine to somewhat seal the port. It is sealed already. Thus my belief on why the car takes less time to crank and start now.
Matt,
My point is that my port is not smooth. It has deep machining grooves that travel from one edge to the other. With a glass hard gasket or no gasket as some have mentioned, vacuum was leaking.
With the fix in place rubber permatex, those grooves are now filled.
If you use a flat smooth gasket against a port that is smooth, but not flat, the same thing will happen, especially since there are only two attachment screws.
Also we are dealing with aluminum against steel. Their coefficient of thermal expansion is dramatically different.
As for over tightening the screws, the screw shows no aluminum galling on removal and the final torque was done by my girly hands with a short manual screwdriver. I could feel the FIP, snug down and ever so slightly compress.
The car does not rely on overwhelming vacuum from a running engine to somewhat seal the port. It is sealed already. Thus my belief on why the car takes less time to crank and start now.
Last edited by PlatinumV8; 06-20-15 at 05:34 AM. Reason: add pertinent info
#86
Moderator
I have never experienced any sealing problem. The plate has a sealing material at the bottom side and all the plates I have removed were still OK without using any additional sealing material. Also the Philips screws were tight enough too.
#88
Just got back from a short trip to go boating on a custom speedboat built by my friend who owns Sunsation Racing and Boat Building. We were testing it prior to delivery to the customer today.
Price tag with three supercharged V6 outboards : north of $350,000.
It did 80 mph like it was nothing. Full glass cockpit like a fighter plane or Boeing 777, etc.
On the sixty mile round trip my LS gave me up to 32 MPG at maximum cruise speed of 55 mph and 27 MPG at 70 MPH.
This is with half a tank if fuel and one passenger.
Before the gasket fix my MPG was a lot lower during city driving at 14-15 MPG now it is 18-19.
Price tag with three supercharged V6 outboards : north of $350,000.
It did 80 mph like it was nothing. Full glass cockpit like a fighter plane or Boeing 777, etc.
On the sixty mile round trip my LS gave me up to 32 MPG at maximum cruise speed of 55 mph and 27 MPG at 70 MPH.
This is with half a tank if fuel and one passenger.
Before the gasket fix my MPG was a lot lower during city driving at 14-15 MPG now it is 18-19.
#89
As you can see this is taken from the drivers seat of my 2000 Platinum Edition LS400, where they were backing the boat into the marina for a test and tune run on Lake St. Claire, Michigan.
What you are looking at is a nearly $400K center console speed boat built by my friends company, towed by one of his many tractor trailer trucks and other large sized tow vehicles, that is why the boat looks smaller than it is.
Name they gave this boat series? The Platinum Edition! I had no idea that is what he had named the series until yesterday and he had no idea I'd gotten a Platinum Edition LS400 until yesterday either!
His race team driver said, "I really like the badges on your car's fender, any idea where I can get them?"
LOL!
Debbie
P.S. I don't want to clutter up this thread with my road trip and boat testing pictures, so I'll start a new thread on the non-lexus topics page.
What you are looking at is a nearly $400K center console speed boat built by my friends company, towed by one of his many tractor trailer trucks and other large sized tow vehicles, that is why the boat looks smaller than it is.
Name they gave this boat series? The Platinum Edition! I had no idea that is what he had named the series until yesterday and he had no idea I'd gotten a Platinum Edition LS400 until yesterday either!
His race team driver said, "I really like the badges on your car's fender, any idea where I can get them?"
LOL!
Debbie
P.S. I don't want to clutter up this thread with my road trip and boat testing pictures, so I'll start a new thread on the non-lexus topics page.
#90
Sorry could not resist! Proof I was on it and also show I was stupid enough to wear a cute little A line dress and heels. After a while I just gave up fighting the gale force wind flying it up and held on with both hands!
Edit: The rest of the pics and write up are posted at the clubhouse page.
Edit: The rest of the pics and write up are posted at the clubhouse page.
Last edited by PlatinumV8; 06-21-15 at 05:37 PM. Reason: The rest of the pics are at the clubhouse