We are planning to pull our Miata with our 1996 LS 400 to Florida from Dallas. Do any of you have a recommendation for a taillight connector to hook to the magnetic taillights needed for the Miata? Thanks for your help!

 

I'd recommend paying the $65-800 to have it trailered via a Semi or trust someone you know to drive it. You don't want to pull cars that far with only two wheels off the ground.

Not worth the risk of overheating your trans or not allowing the converter to fully lock in 3rd.

IF you have to, you can just tap into the tail light harness on either side of the trunk.

 

The hitch company that in 1990 wired up the trailer light connections to, and took the power from, the tail lights of our previous LS400 refused to do the same on our 2000 LS400 unless the power wire was ran under the car all the way to the battery in the engine compartment. I checked another hitch shop and they also required that the power for the trailer lights be taken from a direct connection to the car battery.

You could probably take the power directly from your taillights but a commercial hitch shop might not do it.

Both our previous 1990 and our current 2000 LS400 have a class II receiver hitch rated at 3,500 pounds. Towing a little Miata is well within the capacity of any appropriately equipted LS.

 

Thanks to all for your input. I did indeed go to a pro hitch shop and they installed a 3,500 lb Class II Draw-tite hitch and light controller which did attach to the battery, due to the light-sensing circuitry of the Lexus. I found a website that had a plan for a towbar base for the Miata and found a Reese #74943 Towbar on Ebay and rear lights from a tool importer and we are good to go to Florida as soon as I disconnect the driveshaft! And, as Jackie Gleason would say, "AWAY WE GO!"

 

how much did you pay to get it installed? I'm planning a trip from San Antonio to Tucson. I'll be pulling an AE86

 

I found the base plate at: www.miata.net/sport/Miata_Tow_Base.pdf It cost about $30.00 to construct--buying a metal cutting blade for my sawzall, titanium 1/2" bit, PCV grommets from a 68-75 Olds or Pontiac, bolts, etc. The angle iron I got free from the hitch guy, otherwise about $14 at Home Depot. I'm going with 1/4" vs. the suggested 1/8" plate. The hitch and controller ran $309 and the tail lights ran $13 at an import tool place. As noted in this thread, you may get by without the controller, but I'd sure have the lights installed by the hitch guy--his problem, not yours. BTW, if you have the correct sockets, you can save money by ordering the hitch on the internet--I found one for $118 plus shipping. I didn't have time to wait for it. The hitch installs to the tow hook holes. The Reese tow bar is still available on Ebay--the seller has three new ones for $30 each plus shipping. Still need to buy the chains, but I'll get them at the tool place. The tow base plate plans are very complete and easy to follow--you do need Adobe Reader to view them, which you can download free. Hope this helps!