Transmission problem?
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 544
Likes: 24
From: California
I am running mobil one snythetic and Royal purple has the same basic formula I started running synthetic fluid in the trans since 1999 and have put over 220,000 miles on the trans changing it every 30,000 miles. You can drain the trans from the bottom of the trans using the drain plug then refill it then drive about 2-5 miles and do this again about 5-6 times to get out most of the old trans fluid. You can also use the Toyota type 4 trans fluid which comes in the car new.
Certain specific royal purple (and iirc ONLY royal purple) synthetic trans blends can be used, there is only one that they say is compatible. their "normal" transmission fluid will not work.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
Hey guys, I'm a newbie hear. I seem to have some tranny problems:
Accelerating from a stand still, it shifts from 1st, to 3rd, skipping 2nd altogether.
And it seems to stay in 3rd and not go into 4th. Overdrive switch is not on (lit up). The other thing I notice too is the "overdrive off" light on the dash will flash on and off. Once I hit the switch the light stays on.
The tranny fluid is on the brown side. I plan on getting the fluid flushed hoping this would remedy the problem
Anyone with advice?
Accelerating from a stand still, it shifts from 1st, to 3rd, skipping 2nd altogether.
And it seems to stay in 3rd and not go into 4th. Overdrive switch is not on (lit up). The other thing I notice too is the "overdrive off" light on the dash will flash on and off. Once I hit the switch the light stays on.
The tranny fluid is on the brown side. I plan on getting the fluid flushed hoping this would remedy the problem
Anyone with advice?
I had the same exact issue with mine. Save your trouble don't even bother with the flush because you will have to drop your pan. Your problem is your shift solenoid is out. I don't have the part number handy, but I did cross-reference it to a Supra. They are quite $$$ but it will solve your problem. Once you change them then you can go ahead and do a drain and fill transmission flush procedure. It is much easier on the transmission than the machine flush. Also use only toyota type IV fluid. Normally if you buy a case you can usually talk the toyota parts guy into giving you a discount. Hope this helps and when I find the part number, I will post it.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
lmfao at cpcc...
anyways ur solenoid is more than likely the culprit here like i posted previously, never take your car to a repair shop for tranny issues, always take it to a reputible trans shop.....
anyways ur solenoid is more than likely the culprit here like i posted previously, never take your car to a repair shop for tranny issues, always take it to a reputible trans shop.....
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
From: CA
I had great success by dropping the pan, removing the #1 and #2 solenoids and soaking them in "PB Blaster" for a couple of hours. Before soaking them, the #1 solenoid had a very strong click when tested with a 12V source, but the #2 had more of a dull thud, with not much of an extension of the plunger. But, it seemed that the coil was consistently energizing properly. After the solvent soak, and then energizing them with the plungers submerged in the solvent, the #2 solenoid came to life! As a side note, the #1 was an original spec Denso, but the #2 had been replaced with a Rostra replacement.
It does not look as if the fluid had been drained for a long time, as there was a large amount of typical clutch material on the screen and pan. So, while I was in there, I replaced the screen, mostly because the seals that mate with the valve body had deteriorated. I replaced the screen with a Purolator (which came with a very high quality reusable neoprene gasket), put it all back together and refilled with T-IV fluid. Note that if replacing the screen, you will lose about 1 quart of fluid, in addition to the 2 lost via draining the pan.
So, my plan will be to drain and fill the pan every oil change for a while to keep things clean and fresh.
So far this has been an inexpensive repair that has restored like-new shifting.
Feel free to PM me if you want any more details.
Jeff
It does not look as if the fluid had been drained for a long time, as there was a large amount of typical clutch material on the screen and pan. So, while I was in there, I replaced the screen, mostly because the seals that mate with the valve body had deteriorated. I replaced the screen with a Purolator (which came with a very high quality reusable neoprene gasket), put it all back together and refilled with T-IV fluid. Note that if replacing the screen, you will lose about 1 quart of fluid, in addition to the 2 lost via draining the pan.
So, my plan will be to drain and fill the pan every oil change for a while to keep things clean and fresh.
So far this has been an inexpensive repair that has restored like-new shifting.
Feel free to PM me if you want any more details.
Jeff
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: wa
jeff, how do I test it with a 12v source? Should I get some alligator clips and hook them from the battery to the solenoids? My old Camry is having the same issue as this and the code pulled said solenoid #2 is out but I replaced it with three different ones from a wrecker and the problems are still there! Do you think it's the solenoid or jsut the tranny is messed up as a whole?