Engine replacement on a 98 LS
Parts car is a great way to go especially one with body damage. You have a spare to store things in and can make sure the engine runs properly. Buying an engine from a salvage yard or Ebay is rolling the dice you could spend days swapping the engine to find out is has some critical problem.
Having said that the 1UZ is about the best engine ever made I'd like to know what's wrong with yours.
Having said that the 1UZ is about the best engine ever made I'd like to know what's wrong with yours.
here is some videos for the sounds
Last edited by haydenadler1; Aug 11, 2024 at 09:45 AM.
The only leak on my 180k engine is blowby from the air idle valve on the power steering pump, and that's not even a "leak". Just wetness. I'm sure more are coming, but that's pretty good. I don't think I'd categorize the 1UZ as a leaky engine for it's age, certainly not compared to the other piles out there. And of the 1UZ leaks, the power steer is probably half of them, so not even the "engine". And besides - nothing is immune to time. All engines and seals will leak eventually, and although I think the 1UZ is holding up pretty well as it ages, they're all at the age where something is coming up.
If you want a fun project to learn some things, I think doing a engine swap could be cool. It certainly would be a fun adventure. But I do not think it's even close to the correct financial choice. It's way better to just find a car that doesn't have 400k on the chassis, paint, leather, etc, etc. You'll put all this money into a new engine and still have the same beat up chassis. When for just a little bit more money you can get a fresh chassis.
Has the ECU been repaired?
Does the transmission shift poorly? Hard shifting, inconsistent, slow, gotten worse over time?
I would look into that rattling...
If you want a fun project to learn some things, I think doing a engine swap could be cool. It certainly would be a fun adventure. But I do not think it's even close to the correct financial choice. It's way better to just find a car that doesn't have 400k on the chassis, paint, leather, etc, etc. You'll put all this money into a new engine and still have the same beat up chassis. When for just a little bit more money you can get a fresh chassis.
Has the ECU been repaired?
Does the transmission shift poorly? Hard shifting, inconsistent, slow, gotten worse over time?
I would look into that rattling...
if you see below i attached some videos on how the car sounds
yeah, i tried doing longer videos but the website doesnt let me. Thats what I gathered too, considering the ticking went away once the engine was warm after a 2 mi drive. Im still on the edge of what the “rattling” sound could be, ill do some more diag soon
Google Drive, Youtube, Streamable etc.
Exhaust leak can sound like a "ticking" especially if the leak is right at the exhaust manifold.
Thats what I gathered too, considering the ticking went away once the engine was warm after a 2 mi drive. Im still on the edge of what the “rattling” sound could be, ill do some more diag soon
ill use drive in the future, thanks. Im hoping its an exhaust leak, the vehicle is my daily, lol. Thanks for the confirmation, I appreciate it
my bad, i was really just saying like thanks for the help. Ill take a look when I get a chance, thanks
It's all good. A common exhaust failure point on your car is the flange between the catalytic converters and mid pipes go bad sometimes to the point where replacing the gaskets won't help there is not enough metal left to seal against. Also realize that given your mileage what is considered normal wear and tear and failure goes out the window you're way past the point of normal.
i havent before, but im very willing to learn. You dont know till you try it yk? i mean how hard can it be? just undo a lot of bolts and connections, grunt a bit and its out right? And i mean the transmission doesnt need to come out I can just unbolt the trans and rip the engine out only. I know its good to replace them both together especially on a high mileage car like this, but moneys a bit tight. Im willing to drop some dough on a nice lift from like harbor freight or something like that, I can just return it and get my money back
If you're very willing to learn watch/help someone remove an engine from another car before you even consider trying it yourself.
Lex2K is trying to give you very wise advice. In the interest of your own safety and sanity you should listen.
It's all good. A common exhaust failure point on your car is the flange between the catalytic converters and mid pipes go bad sometimes to the point where replacing the gaskets won't help there is not enough metal left to seal against. Also realize that given your mileage what is considered normal wear and tear and failure goes out the window you're way past the point of normal.
so what im hearing is i need some 1400 dollar headers and a straight pipe all the way out the back
Diving head first into this particular job is a recipe for guaranteed disaster.
If you're very willing to learn watch/help someone remove an engine from another car before you even consider trying it yourself.
Lex2K is trying to give you very wise advice. In the interest of your own safety and sanity you should listen.
If you're very willing to learn watch/help someone remove an engine from another car before you even consider trying it yourself.
Lex2K is trying to give you very wise advice. In the interest of your own safety and sanity you should listen.
yeah the whole engine replacement thing is out the window, I was just giving it a thought. It isnt the smartest decision especially for a car with 380k miles, and I understand that. I myself am a welder, I have a passion for it and will be going to a three year school for it, so I can get it welded up myself. Thanks for the tips







