how do i wire my car so my fogs turn on seperately with the parking lights on. instead of having to turn on the headligts.

 

i was going post some where similiar to question but your is close enough

i was going ask how to re-wire fog lights so when i use high beam they wont turn off, but yours is even better

hope to get some answers

 

i heard some where that you wire it to your parking lights instead of your low beam. but do you know which wire and how anyone??

 

the one that goes to parking lights
you should be able to find it, it should go to those bulbs

 

well it doesn't exactly go straight to the low beams. that would be too easy. they made it go throught harnesses and all this crap so it gets lost.

 

no no
not to low beam

to the parking lights (next to low beam) inside of same light as high beam

 

which wire do i use off the fog lights to run it to the parking lights?? there is 2 wires in the fog light which one do i run

 

both

you need two wires in order to connect them to diff bulbs

plus and minus

 

Well I thought you could before my mom bought one....
I remember reading in a '98 Model Accsseroies Brochure...and on the Cover theres a Gold GS with just the Parking Lights and the Fogs on...

 

Let's wire a relay so you must turn the fogs on in the normal manner, with LB, but then they stay on until the parking lights are turned off.

These lamps, fogs and parking, are switched on by grounding the low side through existing relays. You need:

A DPST (double pole single throw) 12 volt relay with 10 Amp contacts.

First, find the low side, "ground" wire, common to both fog lamps.

Open this circuit by cutting this wire where it's common to both fog lamps. Label the end that goes to the fog lamps FL+ and the other end FLR-.

Tie one end of the relay coil to +12 Volts, and the wire end labelled FLR- to the other end of the relay coil. Tie the wire labelled FL+ to a normally open (N.O.) relay contact and tie the opposite end of that relay contact set to ground, the car body.

At this point the fog lamps should operate normally, only on with LBs just the way it came from the factory.

Now find the wire that supplies the low side circuit for the parking lamps. Splice into and attach this wire to the relay's other N.O. contact set. Tie the opposite relay contact of this set to the FLR- and relay coil junction point.

The relay will only energize and the fog lamps come on with the existing fog lamp switch and then the LBs can be turned off and the fogs will remain on since the relay is latched into the energized state by the low side of the parking lamp circuit.

The fog lamps will only turn off if the parking lamps are turned off.

Good luck.

 

anyone in the 310 area wanna do this for me?? haha sounds too confusing

 

heh or 718

 

does anyone have a set of step-by-step instructions to rewire the fog lights to where they come on with the parking lights?

 

 

First you'll need to buy a few items: a 4 or 5-pin 30-amp automotive relay, an inline fuse holder, a 30-amp fuse, about 20-ft 12-awg wire, a box of t-taps (5 is all you'll need if you don't mess up), roll of electrical tape, and good solid connectors: either use solder or buy male-female disconnects. All of this stuff is available at Radio Shack and should cost you no more than $10-15.

Now you need to get to know the relay. A relay is essentially a mechanical switching device that is activated by a low voltage input to activate a high voltage switch. In this application, your low current trigger will be tapped off the parking lights. Your high current output will be the power supplied to the auxiliary lights by the battery via the relay. The relay itself should be a 1-inch black plastic cube with 5 spades on one face, and some sort of mounting tab on another. The 5 spades are labelled something like 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a (at least these are Bosch's labelling).

- 30 is your input voltage for the switched device.
- 87a is an open circuit (no power).
- 87 is a closed circuit that supplies the high current to your auxiliary lights.
- 85 and 86 can be interchangeable, but they are the low voltage leads from your parking lights.


You can choose either headlights, city/parking lights, or sidemarker lights as your signal trigger. I used the city lights because they were easiest to access, the relay can be switched with an input signal as low as 150mV, and in case anything went wrong, no big deal.

Hopefully everyone here already knows that every DC electrical device requires two connections: a postive (live) and negative (ground). The colored wire is always ground (yes black is a color) and white is always the live wire. (in AC it's slightly different)

STEP 1
Basically, your first connection is going to be two t-taps off the both cornering lights' positive wires. Now connect the two t-taps you just made with two runs of 12-awg wire, and lead both wires back to the battery pan. Twist the two wires together into one single wire and connect them to the 87 spade.

The 87a spade will have no connection because it is the open switch.

STEP 2
Lexus uses a switched ground system which presents a problem because your cornering lights aren't always grounded. So to resolve this issue, go back to the cornering lights and t-tap both of the negative (ground) wires. Run two lengths of 12-awg wire from these t-taps---the same way you just did with the positive wire---to the negative post on the car battery. Your circuit is now properly grounded.

STEP 3
Next send a wire from the battery's negative post to the 85 spade.

STEP 4
Now make another t-tap off of the positive wire from your chosen signal trigger (in my case the city light), usually the closest one is the best. Once you've established this t-tap, run another piece of 12-awg wire from the t-tap to 86 spade.

STEP 5
Last is to establish the big power! You will connect the battery's 12v positive post to the 30 spade. BUT before you do that, use that inline fuse holder you bought. It will be a black, plastic, well... "fuse holder", with a looped wire running from one end to the other. Cut the loop into two bare ends. Connect one end to the 12v positive battery post, and connect the other end to the 30 spade on the relay. You may need to splice or crimp extra wire to make the run to the 30 space. It is critical that the fuse holder is very close to the battery. Like less than 12-inches of wire between them both. Make sure you weren't eager and stuck a fuse in that fuse-holder yet, because that would create a live circuit.

STEP 6
Right now the relay system is completely wired up, but there is no fuse in the holder. Therefore no current is running through it so it is still safe. At this point, you'll want to check all connections from and to the relay and once you've determined all is secured and well, insulate it! You want to make the relay water and weatherproof. I did so by wrapping the entire thing in 6 layers of electrical tape. Feel free to use more if you want. Then tuck or mount the relay somewhere safe (IE somwhere away from water exposure and engine heat). I put mine next to the battery pan which remains relatively dry and cool.

STEP 7
Now you can insert the 30-amp fuse you bought and test out the relay circuit. Turn the light wand in your car to activate the parking lights. Your cornering lights should turn on as well.

Hope this helps