Volume won't change?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
Volume won't change?
First of all let me say my local audio shop sucks. I did not have time to install my new sub and amp so they overcharged me for the install and I get there and the guy is like it doesn't very good so I go out and look at it and it sounds like the thing is not even turned on, you can just barely hear it and when you adjust the volume nothing happens at all so then he tries to blame the amp and all this other BS telling me tha they are the problem. So I get some time fnially this morning and take a look at it and the dumb bastard didn't even run the wires the headunit to the line out converter properly so I fixed it and the sub hits now but volume still does not go up or down. Does anyone know what might cause me to not be able to adjust the volume? I am not sure which wires would send this? Also he didn't hookup the ground wire right I guess because the amp shuts off only with the car and not with the head unit like it should. I have not fixed that part yet because I am not for sure which color is the remote wire? My only guess is the remote wire sends the volume signal to?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
Anyone that can answer either of these? Which color is remote or have you ever seen a sub hooked up that won't turn up and down? I know the sub and amp are good because when I hook it up in my friends car it works just fine
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: CA
Hmmm...
Sorry about your problems...
As for the remote wire, if you do a search on BananaGS, I believe he has a wire diagram on his site.
It would be impossible to send volume information on the remote wire. More than likely the output you are using to feed your amp is a fixed output (as opposed to a variable output). Make sure you hooked up the line output converter properly.
Tim
Sorry about your problems...
As for the remote wire, if you do a search on BananaGS, I believe he has a wire diagram on his site.
It would be impossible to send volume information on the remote wire. More than likely the output you are using to feed your amp is a fixed output (as opposed to a variable output). Make sure you hooked up the line output converter properly.
Tim
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
I am sure that I hooked it up properly, I have replaced the stupid line out conver also just incase something was wrong with it. And I check his wiring chart, it was helpful to get my colors for the left and right line out. But I didn't see anything actually labeled remote.. is there something else it might be called on a wiring diagram?
Can't tell what your other problems are, but as far as the amp turning on and off with the car, your installer hooked the amp's remote input to your car's accessory power instead of your headunit's remote lead.
Pole Position
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From: CA
Originally posted by phluid
I am sure that I hooked it up properly, I have replaced the stupid line out conver also just incase something was wrong with it. And I check his wiring chart, it was helpful to get my colors for the left and right line out. But I didn't see anything actually labeled remote.. is there something else it might be called on a wiring diagram?
I am sure that I hooked it up properly, I have replaced the stupid line out conver also just incase something was wrong with it. And I check his wiring chart, it was helpful to get my colors for the left and right line out. But I didn't see anything actually labeled remote.. is there something else it might be called on a wiring diagram?
I don't recall reading it...but you are using a factory HU right? Are you taking the output directly from the head? Or after the amp? If your using an LOC as stated, then I'm assuming after the amp? The same exact wires providing the signal to the (once) stock speakers are variable, and should allow you to control sub volume. The output directly after the HU may or may not be variable, and could be tied into the amp (possibly).
Just so we are straight, you used an LOC, and not a line driver right? What type of amp are you using? This is indeed a stock HU, and not an aftermarket HU? What did you do to the stock amp? What does the stock amp do when you A) Turn the car off, B) Turn the radio off?
Thanks,
Tim
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Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
Ya, but the remote wire should for sure make my amp turns on/off with the head unit instead of it going off with the car.. shouldnt it? I am positive i am using a LOC. I am still using the factory HU and factory amp for my factory speakers. I put this in for the additional sub and amp, both are Nakamichi and the amp is a PA-205, the sub is a 10" so this setup should be no problem. The stock speakers still turn up and down just fine, it is only the sub that wont, even if I turn my radio completely down it is still going. As far as I know it is ok to use the left and right line out from the head unit and that is what I used.
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Pole Position
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From: CA
Originally posted by phluid
Ya, but the remote wire should for sure make my amp turns on/off with the head unit instead of it going off with the car.. shouldnt it?
If there is a remote wire...yes...
I am positive i am using a LOC. I am still using the factory HU and factory amp for my factory speakers. I put this in for the additional sub and amp, both are Nakamichi and the amp is a PA-205, the sub is a 10" so this setup should be no problem. The stock speakers still turn up and down just fine, it is only the sub that wont, even if I turn my radio completely down it is still going. As far as I know it is ok to use the left and right line out from the head unit and that is what I used.
Ya, but the remote wire should for sure make my amp turns on/off with the head unit instead of it going off with the car.. shouldnt it?
If there is a remote wire...yes...
I am positive i am using a LOC. I am still using the factory HU and factory amp for my factory speakers. I put this in for the additional sub and amp, both are Nakamichi and the amp is a PA-205, the sub is a 10" so this setup should be no problem. The stock speakers still turn up and down just fine, it is only the sub that wont, even if I turn my radio completely down it is still going. As far as I know it is ok to use the left and right line out from the head unit and that is what I used.
I can't get to Banana's site currently, so I can't see the wire diagram...if you know of another location, or if you snagged it off his site, I'd be happy to take a look at it...I'm not sure what exactly the HU controls, and what information is fed to the amp (which I don't know what it controls either...).
Tim
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
Why would it not be needed? Doesnt a LOC just convert it to RCA? Remember it is the factory HU so it is not already RCA like an aftermarket one would be. And it is on the lines coming out of the head unit but that is normally how it is done, I read other posts in this forum and from what I gathered that was the best place to put it. I had also at one point tried running it from the rear sub just to be lazy but I had the same problem and there appeared to be a lot of distortion.
Pole Position
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From: CA
Originally posted by phluid
Why would it not be needed? Doesnt a LOC just convert it to RCA? Remember it is the factory HU so it is not already RCA like an aftermarket one would be. And it is on the lines coming out of the head unit but that is normally how it is done, I read other posts in this forum and from what I gathered that was the best place to put it. I had also at one point tried running it from the rear sub just to be lazy but I had the same problem and there appeared to be a lot of distortion.
Why would it not be needed? Doesnt a LOC just convert it to RCA? Remember it is the factory HU so it is not already RCA like an aftermarket one would be. And it is on the lines coming out of the head unit but that is normally how it is done, I read other posts in this forum and from what I gathered that was the best place to put it. I had also at one point tried running it from the rear sub just to be lazy but I had the same problem and there appeared to be a lot of distortion.
An LOC takes a high level signal, like the signal going to the speakers and converts it to a line level signal (RCA). The signal from the HU to the factory amp should be an already line level signal. Putting the LOC on the sub would be better. Problem there is, most LOC's aren't rated at a high wattage. I think the sub is getting ~50 watts. The LOC you have is rated probably for no more than 40 watts... This could be a problem. Another problem with an LOC, is your taking an amp'ed distorted signal, and passing it to another amp, which just increases the distortion...
If you are using an LOC, and putting it directly after the HU, and the HU is sending a low level signal to the amp, then the LOC is being used incorrectly. I'm not sure that it wouldn't work, however...
What is the manufacturer and model number of your LOC?
Tim
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Texas
Stinger PRO SLOCII(http://www.stingerelectronics.com/st...lectronics.asp).. That is the one that I am using right now.. I also tried FAI-3 by scosche, that one looked like generic crap to me but someone had it just sitting there not being used so I tried it out..
Pole Position
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From: CA
Stinger's SLOCII, non-adjustable line output converter, features full DC isolation with a transformer coupled design. Compatible with floating or common ground head units. The SLOCII accepts inputs up to 35 watts per channel and features a terminal input strip for quick and easy installation.
You chose a fixed line LOC...
You need a variable LOC or an adjustable LOC...
It's only rated to 35 watts, so you couldn't even use it properly on the sub outs of the amp.
Something like this would be used if you had a Master Volume Control, or an EQ of some type...
If you like stinger then:
SHPLOC
Stinger's new high power line output converter handles inputs of up to 55 watts. The SHPLOC offers independent gain adjustments for both right and left channel and is adjustable from 0 to 1,000mv. The SHPLOC also features full DC isolation with a transformer coupled design. Compatible with floating or common ground head units. Features a terminal input strip for quick and easy installation.
Stinger's new high power line output converter handles inputs of up to 55 watts. The SHPLOC offers independent gain adjustments for both right and left channel and is adjustable from 0 to 1,000mv. The SHPLOC also features full DC isolation with a transformer coupled design. Compatible with floating or common ground head units. Features a terminal input strip for quick and easy installation.
You could use their SALOC and just use the high level output off a set of factory speaks...
As for that remote wire (if it exists)...I'd still need to see the diagram
sorry...Tim
Last edited by TimDimman; Nov 15, 2002 at 09:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 609
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From: Texas
I wouldnt think that any head unit ran the watts to the amp? I thought that came from the amp itself and sent it to the sub? And the second one that I showed was an adjustable LOC(I had it turned all the way up), it had the exact same problem.