unlocking door with key on driver side triggers alarm, pass side doesn't
#1
Keeper of the light
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unlocking door with key on driver side triggers alarm, pass side doesn't
I'm getting read to go in the door and probe the lock to see if it has a bad connection, but figured I'd see who all had the issue before. I can unlock from pass side with key fine, but from driver side triggers the alarm.
SC400 of course........
SC400 of course........
#3
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i have had a problem similar to this, check all the plugs by the foot rest make sure there ALL plug in. sometime they look like there plug in but there not or unplug all of them then plug them back up again
#4
The drivers door and passenger door has a plug connected to the lock cylinder that allows you to open either door manually by key without triggering the alarm. Remove your inner door panel and see if this plug is in tact, chances are the tabs that secure it to the cylinder is missing or broken causing you to have to use the passenger door for entry. If not then it could be a loose connection elsewhere.
#6
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The drivers door and passenger door has a plug connected to the lock cylinder that allows you to open either door manually by key without triggering the alarm. Remove your inner door panel and see if this plug is in tact, chances are the tabs that secure it to the cylinder is missing or broken causing you to have to use the passenger door for entry. If not then it could be a loose connection elsewhere.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 11-23-11 at 11:28 AM.
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#9
Yep that's why I figured I'd probe the door, but didn't want to rule out it being another issue elsewhere before the obvious. I have a complete door lock assembly ready to drop in from my parts car, but then thought what if it is the outside lock itself, not the main door lock? Hate to replace it ALL, but might have to if no ideas come up. I have literally every nit and bolt from a running parts car so not an issue, just spent way too much time on it already this week.
#10
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Unless there is a relay pack on a keyless unit under the dash, you don't have the problem described. Drop the lower dash under the steering wheel and look for aftermarket items.
#11
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.
#12
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See I think it's this dude right here more than the master lock assembly, BUT I don't see a way to separate the sensor from the lock assembly so swapping it would screw me.
#13
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I had suspected the above plug all along, but had to separate the sensor from the lock. Turns out it is held on by zip tie, and two ears that latch on.
With my issue, the top ear had became brittle and broken off, leaving the bottom ear to slip out of the zip tie and the sensor fell off the lock assembly.
Thankfully I had a spare as seen above.
This sensor is a potentiometer that rotates with the slit in the lock assembly to let the factory alarm know it has been unlocked properly with the key. Without it, it is like opening the door from the inside with no key and kicks the alarm.
Posters use the picture below as reference when repairing this issue on your car.
With my issue, the top ear had became brittle and broken off, leaving the bottom ear to slip out of the zip tie and the sensor fell off the lock assembly.
Thankfully I had a spare as seen above.
This sensor is a potentiometer that rotates with the slit in the lock assembly to let the factory alarm know it has been unlocked properly with the key. Without it, it is like opening the door from the inside with no key and kicks the alarm.
Posters use the picture below as reference when repairing this issue on your car.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 11-28-11 at 01:19 PM.
#14
Lead Lap
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O. L. T., in the picture above, which is the top ear and which is the bottom ear? I'm guessing the top ear is the white connector you're holding?
Edit: duh, the ears are both part of the white connector.
I have the same problem and explored inside the door and kick panel today but couldn't find anything obviously wrong. Of course, I couldn't figure out how to get at the lock assembly, either... The only bolt I could find holding it to the door is the hex head one to the right of the lock assembly in your pic. But taking that off didn't allow the assembly to slide out, so I'm probably missing something? Without getting the assembly free, I couldn't get at the connector to be sure it is properly fastened.
The Lexus dealer said the next step is to check continuity along the wire, especially before and after the door jamb. That means lots of wire tracing, though, so hopefully that remains a last resort!
Edit: duh, the ears are both part of the white connector.
I have the same problem and explored inside the door and kick panel today but couldn't find anything obviously wrong. Of course, I couldn't figure out how to get at the lock assembly, either... The only bolt I could find holding it to the door is the hex head one to the right of the lock assembly in your pic. But taking that off didn't allow the assembly to slide out, so I'm probably missing something? Without getting the assembly free, I couldn't get at the connector to be sure it is properly fastened.
The Lexus dealer said the next step is to check continuity along the wire, especially before and after the door jamb. That means lots of wire tracing, though, so hopefully that remains a last resort!
Last edited by t2d2; 04-12-14 at 06:20 PM.
#15
Lead Lap
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I did find a couple threads explaining my difficulty in figuring out how to remove the lock assembly...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...e-keylock.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...mechanism.html
Still no luck in actually solving the problem, though.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...e-keylock.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...mechanism.html
Still no luck in actually solving the problem, though.