excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Recently, my ML amp went out on me, so instead of purchasing a new one from the dealership, I want to just go out and upgrade the whole audio system.

I will have a car audio shop doing the work, but the tech is very receptive to other people's experiences and wants to make sure his work is top notch as well. I like to be able to help him wherever possible.

My question: What will I lose if I bypass the ML amp? Are there any secrets to keep everything working? Any wiring diagrams available?

Thanks,
Chris

Sheehan1p

If you bypass the ML amp you will probably be getting a stronger singnal the sub wire that runs to your trunk is tuned to a specific Hz (hertz) so you will be getting a stronger signal when bypassing it

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

I am talking about a full system replacement, not a simple subwoofer replacement.

ntran18

iTrader: (27)

I am looking into doing a similar setup with a PC. I am trying to skip ML and going straight to the speakers. I'll be giving up the radio and CD.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Nice. I am actually trying to keep my stock Navigation and CD changer working.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the hookup on that wiring diagram. Looks scary, but I think my guy can take care of it.

It's funny because I would have thought that the CD changer goes in to the headunit then back to the amp, but in this case, they both go with their separate ways in to the amp then get switched at the amp when you switch the HU...... I think.

ceelo

iTrader: (4)

Why hack up the factory wiring?

You could always use something along the lines of "OEM Integration". JL makes the CleanSweep, Audio Control has various products, Audison has has the really high end BitOne ($$$$). There are several other companies that make these type of products.

You are essentially wanting to maintain the factory headunit, navigation, steering wheel controls, etc - correct? These various products allow you use your factory systems while providing the inputs and outputs needed for the use of aftermarket amplifiers and speakers. They are glorified line output converters (LOC).

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

I am already going to integrate the Audio Control LC8. I am trying to find the inputs to use and have things work correctly. ceelo, just remember, I need to bypass the ML amp for music because it is blown.

ceelo

iTrader: (4)

Hhhm, reading owns me . Guess you have no choice but to do some clipping since the factory amp doesn't work.

Good choice on the Audio Control unit though. Probably going to take some tweaking with the sound since I doubt the ML headunit puts out a flat frequency response.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

yeah. I will probably run it without any processing at first, but will eventually add in additonal signal processing from another AudioControl unit. $$ owns me so I can't do it from the beginning.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Ah, but that's precisely the purpose of the AC unit. It has internal summing that allow you to tweak it without doing anything truly extraneous. It does not, however, do any crossover functions, so you will need that in the amps if he doesn't have a processor. Might I suggest the DQL-8 instead? Similar in function, as it has the LOC for 8 channels, but it adds crossover, EQ, and if you want to add it later, you can put in a DDC (Digital Dash Control). It is more expensive, but it handles everything in one box. I would venture that adding an LC8, crossover, and EQ will end up being very close to the same price, and will take up more real estate.

Big Mack

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Big Mack.

I thought about going with that unit at first, but I picked up the LC8 for under 100 brand new so I couldn't pass it up. The amps that I am choosing (the Alpine PDX series) should have a cross over, and I think I will look for an EQS to give me 6 channels of EQ. Also, the CDT Audio components that I purchased (not to give my whole setup away LOL) also have a pretty strong crossover.

I just hope integrating everything goes smooth. That is my biggest worry. Tuning can come later on.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Bump. Anyone else with suggestions?

Scotty

iTrader: (13)

If your ML amp is bad how are you going to use a line out converter, isn't the signal from the stock unit already going to be line level if you grab it before the amp?

Also, it seems to me the last time I looked at the ML wiring diagram there were only left/right audio outputs and no specific front/rear/sub outs from the stock head unit. I believe all the front/rear fade control and signal processing is in the ML amp and not the factory head unit, meaning you wouldn't be able to control fade at all without the ML amp present.

It seems the best way to cleanly integrate an aftermarket 4ch amp/sub amp would be to do a line out converter off a working ML amp. Or if you or someone was daring enough you could disassemble the ML amp and grab the audio signal at the preamp. The ML amp is a pretty integral part of the stock system, so you may need to have a working one even if you will only be using it for a signal source if you plan on keeping the stock head unit.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

which is along the lines of what i am afraid of....