I know there is information scattered throughout multiple posts over the years on this topic, but it seems that each application seems to have its own set of variables that make it hard for me to understand clearly where the limitations of the stock recharging system is capable of. It seems reasonable to me that there should be some general thresholds too keep in mind as you start to design a system and the ramifications of the amount of power your pulling from the battery.

I think some people have run into problems due to cable size and distance so I have this chart below that I hope provides fairly accurate information.

Recommended Cable Size by Power and Distance
Total RMS
Power (watts) Distance
4 feet 8 feet 12 feet 16 feet 20 feet
100 10 gauge 10 gauge 8 gauge 8 gauge 4 gauge
200 10 gauge 8 gauge 8 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge
400 8 gauge 8 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge
600 8 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge
800 4 gauge 4 gauge 4 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge
1000 4 gauge 4 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge
1400 4 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge 2 gauge



Current Draw by Power
Total RMS
Power (watts) Current
Amps
100 16
200 32
400 64
600 96
800 128
1000 160
1200 172
1400 188


Power & Ground Cable Specs
Cable Size
Wire Gauge Current Capacity
Amperage (amps)
1/0 350
2 225
4 150
8 100
10 60
12 40
14 25
16 15




I personally have a single 8 gauge amp kit for one 4 channel punch 450.4. Right now I am running the amp in mono, running my front speakers and the factory sub. It sounds OK, but I am thinking about making some changes. I have the gain set about halfway for both the fronts and the sub, so I doubt I am anywhere close to pulling a full load from the battery. I had to replace the alternator a few weeks ago , but I a attribute that to age and some fluid from the power steering pump.

What I would like to do is buy a second two channel amp like the punch p200.2 for my fronts and then use the p450.4 to push a TC-sounds t1000. The birth sheet that came with the 450.4 states a total tested max output at over 1600 watts. I don’t know where or how that number was generated, but I am thinking the amp has should be in the neighborhood of 1000 watts peak right?

I know I would need to run another power cable but I was thinking a 4-gauge multi amp kit would work, but the chart above suggests 2 gauge?? I also was wondering at what point do you need a cap or is every car and every combination different?

I know allot of people just buy everything…hook it up and see what happens. But to me it’s not worth all the time, money, and effort only to find out you have issues like car dying or dimming lights. I would like to get an idea from you guys that are running 800-1000 watts + systems what to expect and if there is some amount of power with the stock sc400 charging system that I need keep in mind as I design the next stage of my system.

 

After exhausting all other options like a high output alternator, big 3 upgrade, power wire upgrade and more efficient amps. A cap is like putting a band-aid on a gun shot wound. This has been covered in depth at most car audio forums.

That's not aways the case. You could turn the gain down to its lowest setting and still drive an amp to full power IF your input voltage was high enough. Gains are best set with a DMM and ocilliscope.

As for power wire and the big 3 upgrade, I'd go with the largest sized wire as you can possibly install and still fit your budget. If you are on the fence between 4 ga and 2 ga, then go with 2. It's always better to build for the worst case scenario.

Finally, if you go with a TC-1000, you don't need that much power on it. In most situations, you will max out the excursion long before hitting the thermal limits which are around 800w. If you want the additional headroom, that's great but set your gains the proper way.

-Robert

 

Thanks Robert...your advise is appreciated.
I have seen back and forth on caps in car audio forums and I got the impression that it was an option of last resort. You said "build for the worst case scenario" and I am wondering what that is considering the setup I am looking at.

 

A cap can be added quickly and easily and should be the last upgrade. Upgrading from 4ga to 2ga is a pain so run 2ga first. Same with the big 3. Get the biggest wire your budget allows. Heck, I'd even go for more efficient amps before I'd add a cap but that's just me.

-Robert

 

Ok....Cool! I really, really, really...don't want mess with a cap, or another battery, or another alternator.(I just replaced that, and that job sucked) I would also like to avoid upgrading "the big 3" if possible too.

Can I run a TC-1000 and front speakers without any of the above upgrades? Maybe what I want doesn't fit what I am willing to do?

I think I can do the 2 gauge if it might prevent some issues, but efficient amps...How do I know how efficient an amp is? I understand there is a class system with amps, and I have read extensively, but I just didn't understand all that I was reading.

Class D for high power subs was about all that I THINK I understood..lol
Is that what you are getting at or is there something else?

My experience in power and amps has always been low-power simple applications. I worked in a Circuit City Roadshop for a few months and picked up some basics of car stereo installation, but I really have never had any experience with the design aspect of any system more than say 500-600 watts.

Sorry if that sounds like allot of help, but I'd rather ask now rather than look for help after I have spent the money.