Line Converter
05-04-07, 07:44 PM
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Line Converter
Hey, does anyone know which is the best line level converter or does it matter in the sound wise in which one i get? I am trying to install my sub and amp to the is 250. Any help would be great Thanks.
05-04-07, 11:12 PM
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Yeah it does have the stock sub and amp...but i am trying to install an aftermarket amp to a JL sub...so dont i need a line level converter...i am kinda new at this...i never install an aftermarket amp and sub to a stock headunit before??
05-05-07, 03:48 AM
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It depends on if your amp already has high level inputs. Otherwise for a sub it shouldn't matter too much but the soundgate stuff is going to be a good choice for quality and sound if it fits your budget.
05-05-07, 09:34 AM
#5
05-05-07, 01:57 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
all you need to do is tap into the low level signal at your factory sub amp-- it will be crossed over where it needs to be --
You can disconnect it's power cables and use it's remote turn on and low level signals for the new amp--
Just buy some standard rca cables, cut the ends off, and connect the center pole as the pos. signal, and the outer part of the connector/jack will be the signal ground--
For the sub amp it should only have a single positive and a signal ground, so you will only need to connect that into the left rca input on your amp--
This will work flawlessly-- You'll be glad you know me--
No need for a speaker line converter-- just adds one more component that may introduce noise into your system--
You can disconnect it's power cables and use it's remote turn on and low level signals for the new amp--
Just buy some standard rca cables, cut the ends off, and connect the center pole as the pos. signal, and the outer part of the connector/jack will be the signal ground--
For the sub amp it should only have a single positive and a signal ground, so you will only need to connect that into the left rca input on your amp--
This will work flawlessly-- You'll be glad you know me--
No need for a speaker line converter-- just adds one more component that may introduce noise into your system--
05-06-07, 06:00 PM
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05-07-07, 03:23 PM
#8
Moderator - Electronics Forum
I've had Navone components and I was not at all impressed with the quality or construction. Looked inside one of the "line doublers" and it was all low budget radio shack components, markings erased/sanded off. And he sells these for several hundred dollars. It's the last item linked below. His "balanced" wire is just twisted pair cabling. Supposedly the twisted pair is at 90 degrees to each other, but once when you twist or turn this cabling around a corner, you're not at the optimum 90 degrees.
http://www.autosound2000.com/linedrivers.htm
I prefer to use Audiolink. Good stuff. Back then, Navone didn't have any distortion ratings or anything on their site. And looking at it now, he still doesn't have any real numbers, other than the prices and the name.
The IS250 - you'll need line out converters for the fronts, rears and the sub. Lexus/Toyota doesn't make it easy at all to tap into their amps. Just run the outputs from the speakers to the line level converter, then feed the output of the converter into the amp of your choice. You'll need to keep the stock amp PLUGGED IN or otherwise you won't get any output from the speakers.
Tapping into the low level signal is easier said than done. It's mostly control wires that enter the stock amp, not low level line signals, BUT, this depends on the configuration of the amp that's in the IS250. With the GS, it's a pain. SC is probably the most "hacked" and you can indeed tap into the signals. Best bet is to get a wiring diagram to see where you can tap, and if you can't, a line out converter would be in order.
http://www.autosound2000.com/linedrivers.htm
I prefer to use Audiolink. Good stuff. Back then, Navone didn't have any distortion ratings or anything on their site. And looking at it now, he still doesn't have any real numbers, other than the prices and the name.
The IS250 - you'll need line out converters for the fronts, rears and the sub. Lexus/Toyota doesn't make it easy at all to tap into their amps. Just run the outputs from the speakers to the line level converter, then feed the output of the converter into the amp of your choice. You'll need to keep the stock amp PLUGGED IN or otherwise you won't get any output from the speakers.
Tapping into the low level signal is easier said than done. It's mostly control wires that enter the stock amp, not low level line signals, BUT, this depends on the configuration of the amp that's in the IS250. With the GS, it's a pain. SC is probably the most "hacked" and you can indeed tap into the signals. Best bet is to get a wiring diagram to see where you can tap, and if you can't, a line out converter would be in order.
05-08-07, 07:45 AM
#9
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all you need to do is tap into the low level signal at your factory sub amp-- it will be crossed over where it needs to be --
You can disconnect it's power cables and use it's remote turn on and low level signals for the new amp--
Just buy some standard rca cables, cut the ends off, and connect the center pole as the pos. signal, and the outer part of the connector/jack will be the signal ground--
For the sub amp it should only have a single positive and a signal ground, so you will only need to connect that into the left rca input on your amp--
This will work flawlessly-- You'll be glad you know me--
No need for a speaker line converter-- just adds one more component that may introduce noise into your system--
You can disconnect it's power cables and use it's remote turn on and low level signals for the new amp--
Just buy some standard rca cables, cut the ends off, and connect the center pole as the pos. signal, and the outer part of the connector/jack will be the signal ground--
For the sub amp it should only have a single positive and a signal ground, so you will only need to connect that into the left rca input on your amp--
This will work flawlessly-- You'll be glad you know me--
No need for a speaker line converter-- just adds one more component that may introduce noise into your system--
05-08-07, 11:57 AM
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Thanks for all the input and help. I am planing to install a mono channel Boss amp and a 12 in JL w3v2 sub. I haven't install anything yet. Still doing my research on which way is the best way to go.
05-08-07, 01:41 PM
#13
Lexus Test Driver
None of mine ever have when BRIDGED-- ALWAYS needed when stereo though-- But a mono amp definitely won't need it--
I used a line driver on the factory low level signals to accomplish this btw--
An Audiocontrol 2xs is a 9v rms driver plus xover-- works awesome and isolates noise like nothing else-- It was more than enough to convert the weak~ish factory line level outputs to a very clean and robust signal to supply my amps -- Without it the gains needed cranking like crazy -- which will distort more from clipping the preamp and create a bit more noise-- very bad--
The reason you're thinking the amp is "losing power" without having both sides connected is that you're probably using a stereo feed-- which will have signals divided b/t both sides-- in which case it would sound like much of the output is killed--
BUT-- with a low level signal coming from the factory sub amp, you won't be losing any of the l/r stereo signals, as they're combined in a mono signal-- so a single rca on the left OR right input of the amp from a mono output will be fine and won't lose any power IF the amp is bridged--
IF the amp used is running stereo (doubtful with subs) you will lose some output, or about half, without a y adapter-- with subs on a bridged amp supplied with a mono signal this is not the case--
ANY time a sub amp is run in stereo, the subs MUST be in separate chambers-- It's very common today to see someone run a single sub on a 2ch amp bridged, or a mono class d sub amp-- so it's rare that this would be a problem-- It can still happen though--
I used a line driver on the factory low level signals to accomplish this btw--
An Audiocontrol 2xs is a 9v rms driver plus xover-- works awesome and isolates noise like nothing else-- It was more than enough to convert the weak~ish factory line level outputs to a very clean and robust signal to supply my amps -- Without it the gains needed cranking like crazy -- which will distort more from clipping the preamp and create a bit more noise-- very bad--
The reason you're thinking the amp is "losing power" without having both sides connected is that you're probably using a stereo feed-- which will have signals divided b/t both sides-- in which case it would sound like much of the output is killed--
BUT-- with a low level signal coming from the factory sub amp, you won't be losing any of the l/r stereo signals, as they're combined in a mono signal-- so a single rca on the left OR right input of the amp from a mono output will be fine and won't lose any power IF the amp is bridged--
IF the amp used is running stereo (doubtful with subs) you will lose some output, or about half, without a y adapter-- with subs on a bridged amp supplied with a mono signal this is not the case--
ANY time a sub amp is run in stereo, the subs MUST be in separate chambers-- It's very common today to see someone run a single sub on a 2ch amp bridged, or a mono class d sub amp-- so it's rare that this would be a problem-- It can still happen though--
Last edited by MJHSC400; 05-08-07 at 01:46 PM.
05-08-07, 06:16 PM
#14
Former Sponsor - Cancelled
None of mine ever have when BRIDGED-- ALWAYS needed when stereo though-- But a mono amp definitely won't need it--
I used a line driver on the factory low level signals to accomplish this btw--
An Audiocontrol 2xs is a 9v rms driver plus xover-- works awesome and isolates noise like nothing else-- It was more than enough to convert the weak~ish factory line level outputs to a very clean and robust signal to supply my amps -- Without it the gains needed cranking like crazy -- which will distort more from clipping the preamp and create a bit more noise-- very bad--
The reason you're thinking the amp is "losing power" without having both sides connected is that you're probably using a stereo feed-- which will have signals divided b/t both sides-- in which case it would sound like much of the output is killed--
BUT-- with a low level signal coming from the factory sub amp, you won't be losing any of the l/r stereo signals, as they're combined in a mono signal-- so a single rca on the left OR right input of the amp from a mono output will be fine and won't lose any power IF the amp is bridged--
IF the amp used is running stereo (doubtful with subs) you will lose some output, or about half, without a y adapter-- with subs on a bridged amp supplied with a mono signal this is not the case--
ANY time a sub amp is run in stereo, the subs MUST be in separate chambers-- It's very common today to see someone run a single sub on a 2ch amp bridged, or a mono class d sub amp-- so it's rare that this would be a problem-- It can still happen though--
I used a line driver on the factory low level signals to accomplish this btw--
An Audiocontrol 2xs is a 9v rms driver plus xover-- works awesome and isolates noise like nothing else-- It was more than enough to convert the weak~ish factory line level outputs to a very clean and robust signal to supply my amps -- Without it the gains needed cranking like crazy -- which will distort more from clipping the preamp and create a bit more noise-- very bad--
The reason you're thinking the amp is "losing power" without having both sides connected is that you're probably using a stereo feed-- which will have signals divided b/t both sides-- in which case it would sound like much of the output is killed--
BUT-- with a low level signal coming from the factory sub amp, you won't be losing any of the l/r stereo signals, as they're combined in a mono signal-- so a single rca on the left OR right input of the amp from a mono output will be fine and won't lose any power IF the amp is bridged--
IF the amp used is running stereo (doubtful with subs) you will lose some output, or about half, without a y adapter-- with subs on a bridged amp supplied with a mono signal this is not the case--
ANY time a sub amp is run in stereo, the subs MUST be in separate chambers-- It's very common today to see someone run a single sub on a 2ch amp bridged, or a mono class d sub amp-- so it's rare that this would be a problem-- It can still happen though--
On all the after market decks I've used with sub level out's, they're always a 2 channel signal, and have seen the problem were the out put was cut in half if both channels weren't used. I think even eclipse uses a red/white pair of outputs for its "non fader output," But I was just thinking of all the installs I had done in the past being lazy and only hooking up 1 speaker to the LOC when I posted.
05-08-07, 09:33 PM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
Yeah-- the Eclipse has a stereo non-fader output-- so you'd want to use both--
As for the oem head unit-- MY system has low level at the head unit-- which feeds the sub amp in the rear deck--
Most of these Lex's have outboard amps with signal levels from the head unit-- The sub amp is fed with a mono signal that is also crossed over at the head unit as well-- the stock systems are pretty sophisticated to say the least-- Compared to say, a Ford Taurus anyway--
As for the oem head unit-- MY system has low level at the head unit-- which feeds the sub amp in the rear deck--
Most of these Lex's have outboard amps with signal levels from the head unit-- The sub amp is fed with a mono signal that is also crossed over at the head unit as well-- the stock systems are pretty sophisticated to say the least-- Compared to say, a Ford Taurus anyway--