better sound quality lots of boom = W7

loud obnoxious head rattling nose bleeding ear popping boom = Rockford T2

 

No way would I get rid of a W7 if I already had one. Thay are killer subs. Period. It's just a metter of getting it set up right.

The box probably has little to do with blowing the sub, though I still recommend getting it right. Make sure you are within JL's specs for the box dimensions. Consider a ported box if you haven't already.
OLT had it right - you need to turn on the subsonic filter on the 1000/1 - otherwise, your amp may be making too much power at frequencies below what you can't hear anyway. The result: only HEAT. Massive amounts of current that will take out your voice coil in a jiffy when you turn it up.

PS: You should have no problem driving 2 W7's with the 1000/1. Though you're electrical system may start crying.

 

Like everyone else said check the amp settings, the 1000/1 is perfect for 1 12 w7, its what I am going to be running. All the shops I have been to around here wouldnt even recommend a 500/1 for a 12 w7. I wonder how long that shop has been a JL auth. dealer they shouldn't have to keep putting you through that hassle of keep calling JL and sending your stuff in.

 

is it okay to run a w7 with burned coils? .... i have an extra w7 but was told the coils are burned. however i have heard it while hooked up to an amp and i still think it hits... my question is. its it okay to pair up a w7 with burned coils and a new w7 together?

 

I don't think you should. Just keep the new 1, you shouldn't have any problems with a 1000/1 and 1 12" w7. Try to take your car to a different shop and see if they can figure out whats going on with the settings.

 

well if its burned, its not good.


Take out a mutlimeter and take a resistance reading and tell me what the value is.

 

can't you just press on the cone gently and if you feel a scratchy feeling along sides of the pole inside, it's toast right?

i heard that was a quick way to check.

 

Sometimes the coil blown is not significant enough to unwarp the wiring assembly. the multimeter way is the easier way to check, and it's more accurate than pushing down on a cone

 

if your W7 is underwarranty why use a messed up one?

go get to know your local warranty guy and have him get it replaced for you


-One of the Many Car Audio Warranty Guys

 

Absolutely not OK. As soon as you push power thru it, you'll either melt IT, or your AMP!. It's impedance will drop if the coils are shorted, which is what happens if it's burnt and still plays. If it didn't play, the coils would have an open circuit somewhere. This is not good for either speaker.

 

problem solved......... i went back and had them built me a bigger slot ported box and replaced the 1000.1 with the 500.1......... man this thing hits.. i can finally go to sleep now...lol... thanks everyone for all your inputs....

 

500/1 on a 12W7?

that's weak sauce man...you're giving it like half of the recommended power. get ready for another blown woofer, especially with the larger box