Need help hooking up a AVIC-D1 by replacing a Nakamichi HU
#1
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Need help hooking up a AVIC-D1 by replacing a Nakamichi HU
I need some help swapping out the Nak HU in a 99 GS with a Pioneer AVIC-D1. I want to keep the swap as simple as possible.
I looked at the wiring diagram for replacing the HU and still have a few questions for the audio gurus. Is this the correct diagram http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/stereo/ ?
Is there an even more simplified version of that wiring diagram? I want to replace my NAK HU with a Navigation system (Pioneer AVIC-D1) and was wondering what (if any) I need to buy in terms of a wiring harness or (anything else) such to connect the nav to the existing amp in the trunk.
In short I need some help making this DIY task as simple as possible so that even a simpleton like myself can do this at home.
I know that I have to hookup the speed sensor to the appropriate wire in the car and I noticed another DIY on banana's website that identifies that cable behind the instrument cluster - so I think I can get to that one.
I looked at the wiring diagram for replacing the HU and still have a few questions for the audio gurus. Is this the correct diagram http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/stereo/ ?
Is there an even more simplified version of that wiring diagram? I want to replace my NAK HU with a Navigation system (Pioneer AVIC-D1) and was wondering what (if any) I need to buy in terms of a wiring harness or (anything else) such to connect the nav to the existing amp in the trunk.
In short I need some help making this DIY task as simple as possible so that even a simpleton like myself can do this at home.
I know that I have to hookup the speed sensor to the appropriate wire in the car and I noticed another DIY on banana's website that identifies that cable behind the instrument cluster - so I think I can get to that one.
#2
I'll jump in so it won't get too lonely here
I don't think that link will work for you Hameed.
He's keeping his stock HU while replacing EVERYTHING with aftermarket..
You're changing out your HU aftermarket while keeping EVERYTHING stock, is that correct?
For the headunit, that's the easy part.
There's usually 4 wires for most HU installation:
1. Constant 12v power-with a tester, this will turn on without turning on ignition.
2. Negative/ground-any metal part. If it's painted area, make sure you scratch all the paint good.
3. Remote turn on/acc-turn on with ignition in acc.
4. For nav-the speed sensor which you know.
Then you have to tap into the signals going into the amp. I believe tiguy has a link to that.
I'll come back if I can find it. Hope this helps somewhat for now
I don't think that link will work for you Hameed.
He's keeping his stock HU while replacing EVERYTHING with aftermarket..
You're changing out your HU aftermarket while keeping EVERYTHING stock, is that correct?
For the headunit, that's the easy part.
There's usually 4 wires for most HU installation:
1. Constant 12v power-with a tester, this will turn on without turning on ignition.
2. Negative/ground-any metal part. If it's painted area, make sure you scratch all the paint good.
3. Remote turn on/acc-turn on with ignition in acc.
4. For nav-the speed sensor which you know.
Then you have to tap into the signals going into the amp. I believe tiguy has a link to that.
I'll come back if I can find it. Hope this helps somewhat for now
#3
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GS3Tek
I'll jump in so it won't get too lonely here
I don't think that link will work for you Hameed.
He's keeping his stock HU while replacing EVERYTHING with aftermarket..
You're changing out your HU aftermarket while keeping EVERYTHING stock, is that correct?
He's keeping his stock HU while replacing EVERYTHING with aftermarket..
You're changing out your HU aftermarket while keeping EVERYTHING stock, is that correct?
For the headunit, that's the easy part.
There's usually 4 wires for most HU installation:
1. Constant 12v power-with a tester, this will turn on without turning on ignition.
2. Negative/ground-any metal part. If it's painted area, make sure you scratch all the paint good.
3. Remote turn on/acc-turn on with ignition in acc.
4. For nav-the speed sensor which you know.
There's usually 4 wires for most HU installation:
1. Constant 12v power-with a tester, this will turn on without turning on ignition.
2. Negative/ground-any metal part. If it's painted area, make sure you scratch all the paint good.
3. Remote turn on/acc-turn on with ignition in acc.
4. For nav-the speed sensor which you know.
Then you have to tap into the signals going into the amp. I believe tiguy has a link to that.
I'll come back if I can find it. Hope this helps somewhat for now
I'll come back if I can find it. Hope this helps somewhat for now
If I am able to do this, I will take lots of detailed pics and do a write up so that someone else can benefit from it.
#4
Lexus Champion
Hameed,
I have this same unit for my GS... been sitting in the closet since the car went to the body shop, it's killing me!!! Anyway, did you get the OE mounting brackets & trim for it? I bought the OE Japan mounting kit from Carson, it includes a really nice dash trim piece which matches the OE grey 'stack' color..
I was originally thinking about doing the opposite you're doing... I have a bunch of Boston Acoustics stuff (GT-28, GT-42 amps, Z5 speakers front/Pro 4.5 rear, 12" Pro subwoofer) I was going to try to run with the OE Nakamichi head.
I did some homework on this (using the Nak head with aftermarket amps) and I was concerned about the output level of the stock head... I ultimately decided to step-up for the AVIC-D1. I am going to trash the entire Nak system, so I'll basically just need to tap the OE constant & key-hot power, antenna, and run the speed sensor wire. Everything else will be new Monster Cable stuff!
In your case, the trick will be getting the audio signal from the Pioneer head unit to the Nak amp. I would assume you could use the low-level outputs (RCAs) at the Pioneer and cut the end of the RCAs to splice them into the Nak amp, but I'm not sure what kind of voltage the Nak amp expects or demands. I'm not sure anybody but Lexus engineers know... also, the OE sub is run out of the Nak amp... I assume the NAK amp has four speaker inputs (front left & right + rear left & right) and the sub somehow gets its' audio signal from these, but I am not sure. You may loose the subwoofer output if the amp does not 'see' the proper audio input for it.
I do think the speaker level outputs on the Pioneer may overdrive the NAK amp, but I could be wrong. I have a few people I can ask about this, I'll check around and post my findings ASAP!
Good luck... and congratulations!
Bob
I have this same unit for my GS... been sitting in the closet since the car went to the body shop, it's killing me!!! Anyway, did you get the OE mounting brackets & trim for it? I bought the OE Japan mounting kit from Carson, it includes a really nice dash trim piece which matches the OE grey 'stack' color..
I was originally thinking about doing the opposite you're doing... I have a bunch of Boston Acoustics stuff (GT-28, GT-42 amps, Z5 speakers front/Pro 4.5 rear, 12" Pro subwoofer) I was going to try to run with the OE Nakamichi head.
I did some homework on this (using the Nak head with aftermarket amps) and I was concerned about the output level of the stock head... I ultimately decided to step-up for the AVIC-D1. I am going to trash the entire Nak system, so I'll basically just need to tap the OE constant & key-hot power, antenna, and run the speed sensor wire. Everything else will be new Monster Cable stuff!
In your case, the trick will be getting the audio signal from the Pioneer head unit to the Nak amp. I would assume you could use the low-level outputs (RCAs) at the Pioneer and cut the end of the RCAs to splice them into the Nak amp, but I'm not sure what kind of voltage the Nak amp expects or demands. I'm not sure anybody but Lexus engineers know... also, the OE sub is run out of the Nak amp... I assume the NAK amp has four speaker inputs (front left & right + rear left & right) and the sub somehow gets its' audio signal from these, but I am not sure. You may loose the subwoofer output if the amp does not 'see' the proper audio input for it.
I do think the speaker level outputs on the Pioneer may overdrive the NAK amp, but I could be wrong. I have a few people I can ask about this, I'll check around and post my findings ASAP!
Good luck... and congratulations!
Bob
Last edited by SoCalSC4; 05-03-06 at 09:25 AM.
#5
OK, I found one of the link ,credit to tiguy99 , but I think it's for a stock pioneer amp, not the NAK. However, it's the same concept......You need the find the input speaker wires. Basically if you are to pull out either the + or - of the speakers and that speaker turns off, you located it....just 3 more to go.
Worst case scenario you can use the speaker output from the d1 itself.
And pretty much what socalsc said above.
Where's percy or our audio gods???
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=187864
Worst case scenario you can use the speaker output from the d1 itself.
And pretty much what socalsc said above.
Where's percy or our audio gods???
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=187864
Last edited by GS3Tek; 05-03-06 at 09:44 AM.
#6
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SoCalSC4
Hameed,
I have this same unit for my GS... been sitting in the closet since the car went to the body shop, it's killing me!!! Anyway, did you get the OE mounting brackets & trim for it? I bought the OE Japan mounting kit from Carson, it includes a really nice dash trim piece which matches the OE grey 'stack' color..
I have this same unit for my GS... been sitting in the closet since the car went to the body shop, it's killing me!!! Anyway, did you get the OE mounting brackets & trim for it? I bought the OE Japan mounting kit from Carson, it includes a really nice dash trim piece which matches the OE grey 'stack' color..
I was originally thinking about doing the opposite you're doing... I have a bunch of Boston Acoustics stuff (GT-28, GT-42 amps, Z5 speakers front/Pro 4.5 rear, 12" Pro subwoofer) I was going to try to run with the OE Nakamichi head.
I did some homework on this (using the Nak head with aftermarket amps) and I was concerned about the output level of the stock head... I ultimately decided to step-up for the AVIC-D1. I am going to trash the entire Nak system, so I'll basically just need to tap the OE constant & key-hot power, antenna, and run the speed sensor wire. Everything else will be new Monster Cable stuff!
In your case, the trick will be getting the audio signal from the Pioneer head unit to the Nak amp. I would assume you could use the low-level outputs (RCAs) at the Pioneer and cut the end of the RCAs to splice them into the Nak amp, but I'm not sure what kind of voltage the Nak amp expects or demands. I'm not sure anybody but Lexus engineers know... also, the OE sub is run out of the Nak amp... I assume the NAK amp has four speaker inputs (front left & right + rear left & right) and the sub somehow gets its' audio signal from these, but I am not sure. You may loose the subwoofer output if the amp does not 'see' the proper audio input for it.
I do think the speaker level outputs on the Pioneer may overdrive the NAK amp, but I could be wrong. I have a few people I can ask about this, I'll check around and post my findings ASAP!
Good luck... and congratulations!
Bob
In your case, the trick will be getting the audio signal from the Pioneer head unit to the Nak amp. I would assume you could use the low-level outputs (RCAs) at the Pioneer and cut the end of the RCAs to splice them into the Nak amp, but I'm not sure what kind of voltage the Nak amp expects or demands. I'm not sure anybody but Lexus engineers know... also, the OE sub is run out of the Nak amp... I assume the NAK amp has four speaker inputs (front left & right + rear left & right) and the sub somehow gets its' audio signal from these, but I am not sure. You may loose the subwoofer output if the amp does not 'see' the proper audio input for it.
I do think the speaker level outputs on the Pioneer may overdrive the NAK amp, but I could be wrong. I have a few people I can ask about this, I'll check around and post my findings ASAP!
Good luck... and congratulations!
Bob
Here is what I have gathered so far in my research (mainly searching here).
There are 4 connectors that plug into the back of the factory amp. One plug has only 2 wires that go through it. That is the plug for the subwoofer
Black wire = +
Red wire = -
Now we move onto the big plug to the right of that one. This has all the speaker outputs.
Front Right speaker
Green = +
Blue = -
Front Left Speaker
Pink = +
Purple = -
Rear Right Speaker
Red = +
White = -
Rear Left Speaker
Black = +
Yellow = -
That blue/yellow wire is a 12v constant. It always gets 12v even when the key is off. The cigarette lighter can be used for the accessory turn on lead.
Do I need to buy a tester and any other "tool".
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#8
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GS3Tek
If you don't want to head out to your 99c store, just get any wedge bulb or any auto bulb (12v) connect it to the car metal body (-) and tap away for a +
What about wire connectors etc and such? http://cgi.ebay.com/360-PC-Insulated...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by Hameed; 05-03-06 at 10:21 AM.
#9
Originally Posted by Hameed
Thanks!
What about wire connectors etc and such? http://cgi.ebay.com/360-PC-Insulated...QQcmdZViewItem
What about wire connectors etc and such? http://cgi.ebay.com/360-PC-Insulated...QQcmdZViewItem
Just a reminder that if you're going to cut wires, make sure you cut them far away from the harness/plugs.....you don't don't want those wires to get too short.
Don't forget beer and some tunes to listen to..........I'm not a beer drinker though
#10
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Someone on the12volt.com suggested I get one of these: Soundgate XR4 http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sgtxr4.html
Is it worth getting this?
Is it worth getting this?
#12
Originally Posted by Hameed
Someone on the12volt.com suggested I get one of these: Soundgate XR4 http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sgtxr4.html
Is it worth getting this?
Is it worth getting this?
Why don't you try it without that first?
Anyone else out there?
#13
Everything in Moderation
iTrader: (1)
Got your PM on identifying the antenna. It's very easy. When you take out the Nak unit, there is a thicker black cable with a large metal connector that is plugged into the back of the stock headunit. Just pull it straight out. This plugs directly into the antenna-in connector of the AVIC-D1.
Hameed, there's no way I would ever do any audio work on your car without having a simple volt-ohm meter around. You can get one cheaply at Radio Shack, Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. It allows you to measure circuit/conection continuity, and check wires for voltage level, etc. $20-30+ for something reasonable.
Splices are usually done with "butt connectors" (no laughing please :-) ). For those you need a crimping tool. You can get these at Home Depot or Lowes or Radio Shack.
You can also solder wires from the new headunit to connect to the Toyota wiring adapter. To insulate them you need either heat-shrink tubing (better) or electrical tape (not as good - unravels).
Hameed, there's no way I would ever do any audio work on your car without having a simple volt-ohm meter around. You can get one cheaply at Radio Shack, Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. It allows you to measure circuit/conection continuity, and check wires for voltage level, etc. $20-30+ for something reasonable.
Splices are usually done with "butt connectors" (no laughing please :-) ). For those you need a crimping tool. You can get these at Home Depot or Lowes or Radio Shack.
You can also solder wires from the new headunit to connect to the Toyota wiring adapter. To insulate them you need either heat-shrink tubing (better) or electrical tape (not as good - unravels).
#15
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by engin_ear
Got your PM on identifying the antenna. It's very easy. When you take out the Nak unit, there is a thicker black cable with a large metal connector that is plugged into the back of the stock headunit. Just pull it straight out. This plugs directly into the antenna-in connector of the AVIC-D1.
Originally Posted by engin_ear
Hameed, there's no way I would ever do any audio work on your car without having a simple volt-ohm meter around. You can get one cheaply at Radio Shack, Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. It allows you to measure circuit/conection continuity, and check wires for voltage level, etc. $20-30+ for something reasonable.
Originally Posted by engin_ear
Splices are usually done with "butt connectors" (no laughing please :-) ). For those you need a crimping tool. You can get these at Home Depot or Lowes or Radio Shack.
You can also solder wires from the new headunit to connect to the Toyota wiring adapter. To insulate them you need either heat-shrink tubing (better) or electrical tape (not as good - unravels).
You can also solder wires from the new headunit to connect to the Toyota wiring adapter. To insulate them you need either heat-shrink tubing (better) or electrical tape (not as good - unravels).
Originally Posted by corkycal
on the speed sensor wire, where do you tap into this on the GS?
Credit to BananaGS http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/ - go to DIY #14 for the "Interior" section to see his DIY on how to get to this wire.
Here is a pic of it (also from BananaGS's DIY)