Pics of my completed system
Wow, a lot of questions but I'll try to answer all of them.
I pretty much did the whole installation myself. It first seemed like a daunting task but decided to do it myself and save some money and get to know the layout of my car better. Plus who is going to take better care of your car than yourself. I've been installing stereos, amps and speakers for friends and families for as long as I can remember so this wasn't anything new to me. If I got into a jam I could always take it into a shop and have them finish the job.
I got the dash kit from www.beachaudio.com. Here's some search results for "Lexus", http://www.beachaudio.com/advanced_s...=lexus&x=0&y=0. The one for the GS is the LXSK1315. I don't know if this kit will fit on other Lexus cars. The color match and texture is close but not exact. Fitment is good but feels flimsy due to the brakets being plastic instead of metal like the stock one.
Alot of people seem to be concern about the IB (infinite baffle or free-air) install of the sub. I went with an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 running a single voicecoil at 4ohms. Infinity recommends that the sub be used in a box but can be used in IB installs but can only handle 175w instead of 300+ in a box. I have channels 5 and 6 bridged on the amp feeding the sub. I'm estimating the sub is getting about 150w rms. I initially tried the sub in a sealed box first just to see how it sounds. The bass was tighter but the output just wasn't there. I'm guessing the sub just wasn't getting enough power to overcome the well insulated trunk.
In the mean time I worked on getting the baffle board made for the sub. I drew out the shape and had a shop cut it out for me cause I didn't have any wood tools. I used several layers of foam weatherstripping on the face of the board to get an air tight seal against the deck. This also helps reduce the vibrations transferred to the deck. I don't hear any rattles from the deck but I do get a lot from the overhead console and sunroof. Maybe by damping the rear deck with dynamat it will stop the rattles up front. The board and sub seems to be well secured as it's been more than a month and they are both still solid as the first day.
What I lost in tightness of the bass I gained in output as the sub is radiating directly into the cabin area. Either way it is still better than stock. An idea I was considering was to create an enclosure for the rear of the sub and seal it against the baffle board. This way I'll get tight bass from a sealed box without losing much trunk space. if I decide to do this I'll be sure to update you guys on it.
I pretty much did the whole installation myself. It first seemed like a daunting task but decided to do it myself and save some money and get to know the layout of my car better. Plus who is going to take better care of your car than yourself. I've been installing stereos, amps and speakers for friends and families for as long as I can remember so this wasn't anything new to me. If I got into a jam I could always take it into a shop and have them finish the job.
I got the dash kit from www.beachaudio.com. Here's some search results for "Lexus", http://www.beachaudio.com/advanced_s...=lexus&x=0&y=0. The one for the GS is the LXSK1315. I don't know if this kit will fit on other Lexus cars. The color match and texture is close but not exact. Fitment is good but feels flimsy due to the brakets being plastic instead of metal like the stock one.
Alot of people seem to be concern about the IB (infinite baffle or free-air) install of the sub. I went with an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 running a single voicecoil at 4ohms. Infinity recommends that the sub be used in a box but can be used in IB installs but can only handle 175w instead of 300+ in a box. I have channels 5 and 6 bridged on the amp feeding the sub. I'm estimating the sub is getting about 150w rms. I initially tried the sub in a sealed box first just to see how it sounds. The bass was tighter but the output just wasn't there. I'm guessing the sub just wasn't getting enough power to overcome the well insulated trunk.
In the mean time I worked on getting the baffle board made for the sub. I drew out the shape and had a shop cut it out for me cause I didn't have any wood tools. I used several layers of foam weatherstripping on the face of the board to get an air tight seal against the deck. This also helps reduce the vibrations transferred to the deck. I don't hear any rattles from the deck but I do get a lot from the overhead console and sunroof. Maybe by damping the rear deck with dynamat it will stop the rattles up front. The board and sub seems to be well secured as it's been more than a month and they are both still solid as the first day.
What I lost in tightness of the bass I gained in output as the sub is radiating directly into the cabin area. Either way it is still better than stock. An idea I was considering was to create an enclosure for the rear of the sub and seal it against the baffle board. This way I'll get tight bass from a sealed box without losing much trunk space. if I decide to do this I'll be sure to update you guys on it.
Originally Posted by PureDrifter
forget about the dash kit and all that, i wanna know if a baffle board like that would work if i wanted to install that in my '95LS 

Last edited by engin_ear; Mar 17, 2006 at 09:19 PM. Reason: spelling
Originally Posted by jtgs400
An idea I was considering was to create an enclosure for the rear of the sub and seal it against the baffle board. This way I'll get tight bass from a sealed box without losing much trunk space. if I decide to do this I'll be sure to update you guys on it.
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