Anyone running 6.5" in the front?
#16
Lexus Champion
Yes, I'm running 6.5: in front.
This photo was taken before the Dynamat but you get an idea:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...378#post754378
This photo was taken before the Dynamat but you get an idea:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...378#post754378
Last edited by TwentyTen; 07-06-04 at 02:13 AM.
#18
Everything in Moderation
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Josey
O.K. I am in the same hole. Am planning to replace the door speakers in my Lexus GS-400 2000. So far , the ones I like more are the Dynaudio either 220 MKII or 240 MKII . The first are 6" , the second ones are 7". I have 2 questions : 1) Are the modifications that I will have to do on the doors almost the same for the 6" or the 7" , or , going with the 6" will be easier on installation that with the 7" . If it `s the same , I will go with the 7" . 2) What about the rear doors ? Do I have to buy another component set of Dynaudios ? Because I will be using only the midranges, not the twetters.... Maybe Dynaudio sells the midranges (MV150 or MV160) separately. Anybody knows this ? Please, am stock. Thanks ps: I already replaced the stock sub with a 10" Infinity in box, and a mono Zapco amp. Josey
O.K. I am in the same hole. Am planning to replace the door speakers in my Lexus GS-400 2000. So far , the ones I like more are the Dynaudio either 220 MKII or 240 MKII . The first are 6" , the second ones are 7". I have 2 questions : 1) Are the modifications that I will have to do on the doors almost the same for the 6" or the 7" , or , going with the 6" will be easier on installation that with the 7" . If it `s the same , I will go with the 7" . 2) What about the rear doors ? Do I have to buy another component set of Dynaudios ? Because I will be using only the midranges, not the twetters.... Maybe Dynaudio sells the midranges (MV150 or MV160) separately. Anybody knows this ? Please, am stock. Thanks ps: I already replaced the stock sub with a 10" Infinity in box, and a mono Zapco amp. Josey
I have the 220's. The difference is relatively minor, but the 220's will be slightly easier to put in than the 240's, due to the fact that you have to make sure that you're clearing the window track. However, I think if I was doing it over again, I'd put in the 240's - if you look at the response curves that Dynaudio has on their website, the larger midbass of the 240 has wider response. If you listen at higher levels, I think the 240's can take it a bit more, though I have no complaints about the 220's. I put smaller speakers up front and larger ones in rear, thus moving the midbass more to the rear. If you do go with 220's up front, go with larger midbass in rear, MW170 or even MW180 (There's plenty of clearance in the rear doors - I swear I can fit an elephant in there.) Try woofersetc.com for Dynaudio - they sell the individual drivers.
#19
Hi engin_ear : I got a couple of questions for you. I have found this guy in Singapore from Dynaudio , that is giving me a good price in a set of 240GTs(the same as the 240MKIIs but with a shorter basquet, to make installations easier, but same exact specs) plus also another set of 240GT drivers and the crossovers for the rear doors(no tweeters) , so no problem there. My question is : Can I run those speakers with the stock amp. and obtain quality sound? I really do not want to meddle with the Pioneer/ Nav. that my Lexus has, besides , as far as I understand ,is very difficult to tap in to it, so am very reluctant to do it. My taste in music is jazz, some R&B, and some classical as well, nothing like hard rock or strident music, also no high levels of listening, just normal stuff, audiophile style. What is your opinion ? Let me add that am perfectly happy with the setup in my Sub, the bass is magnificent, very clean, tight, and what am looking for in the door speakers, is resolution and midrange bass, which I think that the Dynaudios are the ticket for, but I need to know if all of that can be obtain with the stock amp at regular levels, before I start spending money. Thanks so much for your valuable time and help . Thanks again ....... Josey
#20
Pole Position
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get a DEQ-9200 from pioneer and get a high-lower and get signal from the amp to the processor. I already have this so this is what I'm going to do. Best thing is the the processor will act as a control unit so you can control the volume as well as get the 3 channel out put front/rear/sub to go into any amp you want. Beside it's a DSP processor so you won't lose any of the surround sound effect. faceplate itself is very small not a full size din like others so you can virtually place the control unit anywhere. Even mounted where your visors are.
#22
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by dannieboiz
are you using the stock speaker pods? I couldn't really tell by looking.
are you using the stock speaker pods? I couldn't really tell by looking.
Engine_ear: You were right about the baffles not clearing the window. I had to cut them to fit, the eventually got smaller baffles. Thanks for the help
#23
Originally posted by Josey
O.K. I am in the same hole. Am planning to replace the door speakers in my Lexus GS-400 2000. So far , the ones I like more are the Dynaudio either 220 MKII or 240 MKII . The first are 6" , the second ones are 7". I have 2 questions : 1) Are the modifications that I will have to do on the doors almost the same for the 6" or the 7" , or , going with the 6" will be easier on installation that with the 7" . If it `s the same , I will go with the 7" . 2) What about the rear doors ? Do I have to buy another component set of Dynaudios ? Because I will be using only the midranges, not the twetters.... Maybe Dynaudio sells the midranges (MV150 or MV160) separately. Anybody knows this ? Please, am stock. Thanks ps: I already replaced the stock sub with a 10" Infinity in box, and a mono Zapco amp. Josey
O.K. I am in the same hole. Am planning to replace the door speakers in my Lexus GS-400 2000. So far , the ones I like more are the Dynaudio either 220 MKII or 240 MKII . The first are 6" , the second ones are 7". I have 2 questions : 1) Are the modifications that I will have to do on the doors almost the same for the 6" or the 7" , or , going with the 6" will be easier on installation that with the 7" . If it `s the same , I will go with the 7" . 2) What about the rear doors ? Do I have to buy another component set of Dynaudios ? Because I will be using only the midranges, not the twetters.... Maybe Dynaudio sells the midranges (MV150 or MV160) separately. Anybody knows this ? Please, am stock. Thanks ps: I already replaced the stock sub with a 10" Infinity in box, and a mono Zapco amp. Josey
I would say that either the 6" or 7" Dynaudio will require a custom baffle (i'm running the 240MK's). The only size that will fit in the stock speaker enclosures are 4" without modification. I'm running Dynaudio 8's (MW170's) in the rear doors for mid bass, and they also needed a baffle (but you have much more room in the rear doors).
Jim
Last edited by DPGS430; 07-06-04 at 05:06 PM.
#24
I will really like to know if somebody has added a amp to a Pioneer/ nav. stock . I know that if am putting the Dynaudios , the logical step is to add a amp, but , can it be done ? If it can be done I`ll do it too; am thinking of the Zapco C2K-2.5X competition amp. It is not that expensive, and very, very good, outdone only by the Mcintosh, but that is a lot more money, and Zapco is good enough for me. If not, then I will have to think the speakers replacement more carefully, untill I can be certain that for the money am expending in the component Dynaudios I get some substantial improvement .
#25
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Josey,
If you're adding an amp and want to keep the stock head unit, use a line out converter. The ones I like are Audiolink II's. By far some of the best ones I've seen. There are alot of other ones on the market, but most of them are junk by comparison.
The GS 2nd gen can fit up to 7 inch midwoofers for the fronts with the proper spacer ring and baffle. Just be sure to measure and check for the window clearance when rolled down.
Zapco makes a decent amp...pretty sure you'll be happy with it when driving the Dyns.
Changing out the speakers themselves with the Dyns will lead to a substantial improvement. I had a chance to compare a Pioneer equipped system (stock amp) with Dyn speakers (MW160/MD100 fronts, MW160 rears, Velodyne Sub) and the LS430 Mark Levinson had the edge in sound quality. Remember, that's with a STOCK amp. With a Zapco (or better yet, a Mc), you'll completely waste the ML system.
You'll only need the midwoofers for the rears. Don't have to buy the complete System 240 setup for the rears.
Percy
Modded McIntosh MC4000M, MC440M, MEQ452, MEN456. Gotta love em.
If you're adding an amp and want to keep the stock head unit, use a line out converter. The ones I like are Audiolink II's. By far some of the best ones I've seen. There are alot of other ones on the market, but most of them are junk by comparison.
The GS 2nd gen can fit up to 7 inch midwoofers for the fronts with the proper spacer ring and baffle. Just be sure to measure and check for the window clearance when rolled down.
Zapco makes a decent amp...pretty sure you'll be happy with it when driving the Dyns.
Changing out the speakers themselves with the Dyns will lead to a substantial improvement. I had a chance to compare a Pioneer equipped system (stock amp) with Dyn speakers (MW160/MD100 fronts, MW160 rears, Velodyne Sub) and the LS430 Mark Levinson had the edge in sound quality. Remember, that's with a STOCK amp. With a Zapco (or better yet, a Mc), you'll completely waste the ML system.
You'll only need the midwoofers for the rears. Don't have to buy the complete System 240 setup for the rears.
Percy
Modded McIntosh MC4000M, MC440M, MEQ452, MEN456. Gotta love em.
#26
Hey, Percy : Thanks so much for coming to my rescue, man. That`s exactly what I want : The Dynaudio 240 GTs at front, the MW160s with the crossovers in the rear doors , and a nice amp. I will like the Mcintosh better than the Zapco, if I can find a MCC404 with decent price.... please, talk to me a little more about the line output converter , powerlinkII , I think that Crutchfield have it ; what about distortion, and also, am I correct in assuming that I Will need a 4 channel amp for a door for channel and 2 line output converters ? Am just trying to do the right thing, the right way, even if it cost some more... I will do the speakers on the doors, not sure about the amp installation. Let me know if you come up with a price in mcintosh that I won`t have to rob a bank to get it.
#27
Everything in Moderation
iTrader: (1)
To expand on what Percy said, making baffles and changing out the stock speakers will improve the sound, but then you'll begin to hear all the shortcomings of the stock amp. If you have a CD changer, changing the amp is difficult to do. One way around that is to put the LLC's that Pervy is referring to on each of the speaker-level outputs coming out of the stock amp, then add a 4-channel amp and a sub amp. This will at least get you clean power to all speakers, and will allow the stock amp to not have to drive any significant power directly to any speakers (the stock amp will thus drive only the high-impedance loads of the new amp's inputs - no power there, the signal will be reasonably clean).
The Dyn's need some power to really sound good dynamically. What will happen if you change the speakers out is that you'll gradually be listening louder and louder because the Dyn's are very accurate. That's when you'll want the power. Judging how much power you'll want by listening to the system as it is now (with stock speakers/amp) is like apples and oranges.
The Dyn's need some power to really sound good dynamically. What will happen if you change the speakers out is that you'll gradually be listening louder and louder because the Dyn's are very accurate. That's when you'll want the power. Judging how much power you'll want by listening to the system as it is now (with stock speakers/amp) is like apples and oranges.
#28
Everything in Moderation
iTrader: (1)
Crutchfield does have the Powerlink II. That's correct.
Zapco makes excellent amps. It doesn't make any good sense to me to be putting a McIntosh amp outboard of your stock amp, I don't think you're really going to realize the quality - a chain is only as good as its weakest link. If you're at that level where you don't mind spending money, you might want to consider more radical system changes/configuration so that you don't wind up with any stock components, or at least not the stock amp. Otherwise, I think you'll get excellent results with ANY good quality amp that you add to the system, Zapco, PPI, JL, etc. There are many.
Zapco makes excellent amps. It doesn't make any good sense to me to be putting a McIntosh amp outboard of your stock amp, I don't think you're really going to realize the quality - a chain is only as good as its weakest link. If you're at that level where you don't mind spending money, you might want to consider more radical system changes/configuration so that you don't wind up with any stock components, or at least not the stock amp. Otherwise, I think you'll get excellent results with ANY good quality amp that you add to the system, Zapco, PPI, JL, etc. There are many.
#29
What you are saying is that I can get rid of the stock amp "totally" , and in its place install any which one I like.... well, that`s fantastic; I thought that there was no way but to include the stock amp because the pre-amp switching thing, so, I did not ocurred to me to take it out. Of course I will like to get rid of it. Can you be so kind as to explain with a little more detail, so I can digest it real good and put this project in action, now that the weather is great. If I can do that then definitely am getting the mcintosh
#30
Everything in Moderation
iTrader: (1)
NO that's not what I said exactly - though it is technically possible to get rid of the stock amp completely, it is very difficult, not easy at all, if you have Pioneer system with CD changer. This is because the preamp outs from each (headunit and CD changer) are brought to the amp, and the amp does the switching and control. If you remove stock amp, you will have to re-create this - not straight-forward. Some people have done it. It requires technical skill, good knowledge of the system, and maybe an adapter or two from Blitzsafe. What I was saying is that if you're willing to do the work to understand it all, get the right components and adapters, find a good installer, it COULD be done. Not recommended unless you develop a good system knowledge, or you will not wind up with what you are looking for, you could waste a lot of money, and wind up with a crippled system or one that is cumbersome to use. There should be more info on all this here in the posts if you're good at searching.