Will those wheels fit? START HERE.
because, while i can help you figure out fitment, but (as opinionated as i am, and with all due respect) i really could care less what brand or model of wheels you are looking at/interested in/already bought.
after all, they are/will be your wheels, not mine.
good luck with your search.
Arogtech I say save the money your going to buy on the rim and spring to get coilover. Even stock drop on coilover will stand out. Then save money and really search on what you want not what you have now to afford. Cause with the +22 offset your gonna need a roll and pull. 19 is rim size 10.5 width.
laobo979, even if I had more money I really don't see myself spending money on anything else besides Volks. So I'm going with Varrstoens for much cheaper, i think they look fantastic lol. I just need help as to what is the most aggressive fitment I can get without cutting/shaving fenders (rolling OK), and still being able to drive it daily. And with that, what spring size I would need to get.
Thanks though!
Thanks though!
That said i suggest you wait. Although there is no exact date for the release of these newer specs, you can buy and install your springs in the meantime. Research the different springs here on CL, there is a thread dedicated to all the various options for lowering springs. Among those options i like H&R the best.
Good Luck!
2) How do I determine what size springs to order? Coilovers are out of budget..
3) Varrstoen makes all these sizes: -link snip-
What sizes can I be comfortably run with NO fender work, and what size springs will I have to order for these sizes? Keep in mind this is my only car and my DD.
What sizes can I be comfortably run with NO fender work, and what size springs will I have to order for these sizes? Keep in mind this is my only car and my DD.
having said that, 225/35-19 + 245/35-19. this is post-fender modifications, mind you.
4) I juuuust might be OK with rolling fenders. BUT NO SHAVING/CUTTING. In this case (rolling fenders), what sizes would I be able to run, and what size springs would I need then? Keep in mind this is my only car and my DD.
you'll have to roll your fenders and get a light pull while you're at it.
--
ed-op: go for coilovers first, then save up for a real set of volks. don't sell yourself short with replica wheels with limited sizing/specs. all the work you'll have to do to make them fit won't be worth it in the long run, as you'll chew through tires faster than you'd like. something to consider, though at the end of the day it's your money.
good luck, and welcome to the 2is section.
Varrstoen are very popular replica wheels. IMO they are great for the price. Unfortunately the sizes they offer are aggressive for our car, and personally i think its too aggressive for a daily driver. I've witnessed a lot of new members eagerly pursue varrstoen wheels because of the price and looks, but they dont really take the time to understand the wheel specs and the work involved to make these fit properly. Not to mention the possible headaches aggressive wheels can cause along with uneven tire wear. I say this because I too found myself in that exact position. Of course some people like aggressive fitment, but its just not practical for the average driver. Fortunately Varrstoen has mentioned that they are in process of creating more friendly specs for our car. It'll most likely require no fender work
That said i suggest you wait. Although there is no exact date for the release of these newer specs, you can buy and install your springs in the meantime. Research the different springs here on CL, there is a thread dedicated to all the various options for lowering springs. Among those options i like H&R the best.
Good Luck!
That said i suggest you wait. Although there is no exact date for the release of these newer specs, you can buy and install your springs in the meantime. Research the different springs here on CL, there is a thread dedicated to all the various options for lowering springs. Among those options i like H&R the best.
Good Luck!
other than that little tidbit, +1 w/ what sleekbrian posted.
The post can be seen on this page if anyone wants to see it:https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...30-0-a-10.html
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: TX
19" wheel diameter, 10.5" wheel width, +22 offset (measured in millimeters)
track down one of CL's authorized vendors. they'll give you competitive pricing.
if you drive this car on a daily basis, you might want to avoid wide + low offset wheels, as you'll need to "stretch" tires (term used loosely).
having said that, 225/35-19 + 245/35-19. this is post-fender modifications, mind you.
Edit: And thanks to everybody else for the helpful info! CL is awesome lol.
see #3 re: DD.
you'll have to roll your fenders and get a light pull while you're at it.
--
ed-op: go for coilovers first, then save up for a real set of volks. don't sell yourself short with replica wheels with limited sizing/specs. all the work you'll have to do to make them fit won't be worth it in the long run, as you'll chew through tires faster than you'd like. something to consider, though at the end of the day it's your money.
good luck, and welcome to the 2is section.
track down one of CL's authorized vendors. they'll give you competitive pricing.
if you drive this car on a daily basis, you might want to avoid wide + low offset wheels, as you'll need to "stretch" tires (term used loosely).
having said that, 225/35-19 + 245/35-19. this is post-fender modifications, mind you.
Edit: And thanks to everybody else for the helpful info! CL is awesome lol.
see #3 re: DD.
you'll have to roll your fenders and get a light pull while you're at it.
--
ed-op: go for coilovers first, then save up for a real set of volks. don't sell yourself short with replica wheels with limited sizing/specs. all the work you'll have to do to make them fit won't be worth it in the long run, as you'll chew through tires faster than you'd like. something to consider, though at the end of the day it's your money.
good luck, and welcome to the 2is section.
Thanks for the tire info. Basically, the only question I have left is this:
I have heard that lower offsets are better for DDs as the tires arent stretched so much. However, I have also heard that the lower offset you go, the more fender work you will require. That sounds kinda weird.. is that true?
Having said that, should I go with +22, +32, or +35?
Thanks for the tire info. Basically, the only question I have left is this:
I have heard that lower offsets are better for DDs as the tires arent stretched so much. However, I have also heard that the lower offset you go, the more fender work you will require. That sounds kinda weird.. is that true?
Having said that, should I go with +22, +32, or +35?
I have heard that lower offsets are better for DDs as the tires arent stretched so much. However, I have also heard that the lower offset you go, the more fender work you will require. That sounds kinda weird.. is that true?
Having said that, should I go with +22, +32, or +35?
what is false: the lower the offset, the better it is for daily driving.
what is true: the lower the offset, the more fender work and tire stretching is required.
and here's why.
offset = distance from inside mounting pad to centerline of wheel (measured in millimeters). the higher the offset, the farther away the mounting pad is from the centerline, and the more "sunken in" the wheels are. conversely, the lower the offset, the closer the mounting pad is from the centerline, and the more "flush" the wheels are. so as offset decreases, the farther your wheels get to the fender edge. and in order to create clearance (vs. having a lose-lose battle between the outside shoulder of your tires and the fender edge), you run narrower tires on low offset wheels - otherwise known as "tire stretching". typically on a 10.5" wheel, 245 is a safe "stretch".
however, tire stretching puts forces on the inside shoulders and sidewalls of the tires that it normally wouldn't be subjected to, and as such that area experiences premature wear. in addition, the sidewalls of your average road-going tires aren't constructed with a few layers of steel belts like the tread area is, so once that pressure and heat starts acting on the sidewalls, there's nothing there to hold the sidewall together. ultimately, the sidewalls deform, and the air pressure in the tire causes the sidewall to blow out (how spectacular said blowout will be varies).
camber also plays an important part in this, but you can imagine what camber will do to a set of stretched tires given ^^^.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 1
From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
Nope it will not. Do fender mods. Needs a roll and pull. Change those tire speces to 225/35 front and 245/35 rear. Or if you wanna be brave go 215/35 and 235/35 better clearance.