Yes, we all know that the price reduction in RR Racing supercharger has more of us debating on taking the plunge. In order to be qualified you got to make sure your engine is up to par as far as compression.

Note: I'm not a professional, any damages done to your vehicle is solely your responsibility. Recommend taking your car to a professional to have this service done, always.

This is the "dry test" and this is also just how I did it, im sure there are other and better ways, and may be some flaws in my methods.
This also could double as a spark plug diy, so might as well replace them while your at it if you're due. Factory plug model # denso FK20HBR11
Make sure your battery is in good health, I used a 15 amp charger while doing this process to make sure my battery was fully charged at all times.

Tools: 10mm sockets, 1/4 drive shallow/deep, 3/8 drive shallow/deep
Swivels, and lots of them, 1/4 and 3/8
Extensions, and lots of them various sizes, oh, and more extensions
5/8 Spark plug removal socket (highly recommend the magnetic ones, over the "rubber boot type")
Vice grips
Needle nose pliars
Flexible magnetic claw tool, or telescoping magnetic tool (you'll probably drop your 10mm and lose it somewhere)
Compression Check tool- Recommend buying a brand new one, save yourself the time and frustration. You can rent one from an auto parts store but the threads are abused and who knows how accurate the gauge is.
Gloves, its a hot process, and you need to work fairly quickly to avoid engine cooling.




Here we go.

Remove all engine bay beauty panels

Remove top bracket securing battery (10mm)

Remove 2 10mm nut and bolt securing both smaller fuse boxes mounted on the strut towers both driver and passenger side, lift up and move to the side.

Remove 1 10mm bolt on each bracket that is bolted to the wheel well that support the fuse boxes, these will need to be removed for clearance.



Remove 4 10mm bolts on the coil packs on the driver side, make sure not to unseat the coil pack

Start engine, using my obd2 app i monitored my coolant temperature, TEMPERATURE MUST BE AT 180 DEGREES BEFORE ENGINE SHUTDOWN also found the temp gauge on the dash to be at normal operating range at 180 degrees.




Shut off engine

Remove main fuse box cover on driver side

Pull 2 fuses, labeled F/PMP and INJ both 25A fuses


Loosen boot on intake elbow and move out of the way exposing throttle body butterfly

Slowly push the butterfly open, Using vice grips lightly clamp butterfly to a "rigged open" position, this will allow maximum air flow needed for the test.



I tried to start the car 2 times to ignite any fuel remaining in the cylinders/injectors

Disconnect all 4 harnesses on the coil packs/ignition coils, Then remove all 4 coil packs on driver side (pull straight out), some are a tight squeeze and need to be rotated to a certain angle to remove. This is why the fuse box brackets needed to be removed.

Remove the spark plug from the first cylinder you are going to test,

Thread in your compression tester hose until it fully seats to the rubber o-ring

Crank engine for 5 seconds, depress brake, press and hold the start/stop button

Your gauge should read your pressure in the cylinder it should be above 180 psi to upwards of 200's

Depending on manufacturer, there should be a pressure release near the gauge, release the pressure from the gauge until needle reads 0 psi

Remove compression tool and reinstall spark plug torque to spec, I believe it is 15ft/lbs Note: When using extensions and swivels a torque wrench will not work accurately, so please use your best judgement.

Re-install coil pack and attach harness

Move on to the next spark plug and so on and so fourth, until all 4 are done on the driver side. As carefully as you can work quickly to avoid engine cooldown. Mock up a drawing of the engine and record the numbers of each cylinder

Re-install ignition coils, harnesses and 10mm bolts securing 4 the coils

Re-install intake elbow and remove vice grips from throttle body butterfly

Re-install the 2 fuses you pulled in your main fuse box.

Remove 4 10mm bolts on the coil packs on the passenger side

NEXT side

Start the engine, we need to warm back up to 180 Degrees!

Once back up to 180 degrees begin the process on passenger side same as driver side, except this is the fun side where the last cylinder closest to the firewall, you need to remove the battery and tray to access, install your tool, then re-install battery so you can crank the engine over.

When you're all finished up, re-install all coil packs, brackets and fuse box nuts\bolts. Double check all connections

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Notes: I am at 5300 Ft. above sea level, the amount of air density at altitude is lower than those at sea level, therefor my compression numbers are lower and require an adjustment. Below is a few pictures taken from the process as well as the chart for altitude correction

 

Awesome DIY! Very detailed and great pics 👍. Only thing is when cranking the engine over you don’t need to press and hold the start button. Just pressing it once cranks the engine over 8 times and that’s all you need. Also if you have a small light weight rr racing battery you don’t need to remove that because you have more then enough room.

 

Thankfully, I wasn’t seating my plugs with an air impact.