Probably 16. Car stuff other than power will run anywhere from 12-18, maybe 20 if you're talking about some small circuit stuff.

 

I am just adding some perspective, but my local Lexus dealer solders wires when they need repair. One of my close friends is a Lexus master tech. I’m not voting either way.

 

I still have all the pins and housings to make my own harness extender for a Supra. I never did build it, but the plan was to make it with connectors in the middle to "splice in" the relevant tools to make the OEM ECM work. Now there's no point. Lots of plug n' play options for the Supra today.

 

Update. My car has gotten much worse since I discovered the problem and moved around the simulator, so we tackled this last night. My master tech buddy brought some Matco wire crimping tools over.

The power and ground wires had just been tapped into wires by stripping them, wrapping the power and ground around the live wires, and then taping them. They just pulled right out. This Explains the cars random behavior. We crimped the O2 wires together and sealed off the tapped power and ground wires.

The car was throwing a cel every 10 miles before the repair. We took it out last night to dinner and a movie, and it ran flawlessly. We also did some nice long wet parking lot drifts. These cars really rotate fast in the wet. Had a blast.

So far so good. Thanks for the tips on crimping and to all the members (especially Birgie and RR) for helping me track this down. After 1.5 years of chasing the random issue, I’m really looking forward to some trouble free miles.

I enjoy wrenching on cars, but lack strong diagnostic skills, so I appreciate the help of my fellow Lexus owners.

 

+10 for crimping naked connectors and heat shrink.
Adding this; before applying heat shrink, pull test those wires. A good crimp won't let the wire move at all and it gives you confidence that your work is done right.

Tip: although we all grew up twisting wires before crimping and soldering, it's actually a no-no and weakens the connection. If the wire can be fed into the connector twist free, the wires are less likely to be cut during crimping. Look at the OEM work. There is no twisting there....

 

As is my fortune, I’m having a similar code that I can’t quite shake. I am not tuned, and don’t have cats, but I don’t think this code relates as much to the lack of cats. Any thoughts on the catalyst (pun intended)?

 

Did you ever end up replacing the O2 sensors?

 

I believe I did replace that one.

 

I see. I eventually figured out mine was a combination of fouled O2's, and pinhole leaks in the collector flange. Mechanic did a thorough inspection and patch weld, says both collectors look like swiss cheese, and his fix is temporary at best. I also had Gesi cat's installed (they're after the downstream O2, but that's beside the point); the region I live in was getting very uptight about this, and 1 ticket would likely cost more than the purchase and install of said cat's. Plus side, they took all the very aggressive and angry rasp out of cold starts and regular cruising, while only taking away a bit of the same from 3500+ RPM.

Point being; consider getting it up in the air and disconnecting the midpipe to have a good look at and inside the flange. Also could be the gasket connection (although, without back-checking, I think you already tackled this step). Your description so closely resembles what I went through these past two years.

 

Just spotted this thread, just wanted to say to all our customers who have our tune, we get flooded d with requests just like this, and even when the problem has nothing to do with the tune, we are happy to help!

Rafi

 

I do appreciate the help with that both from RR and the forum. It was a headache.

 

@Jwconeil Did you get P0157 sorted out ??

Couple of things to check are the manifold / header flange to exhaust connections.
Overtime the crush gaskets can lose their efficiency of crushing..

Also, whether it’s the A/F sensors or the O2 sensors, you NEVER want to see wound up resistance in the wiring…

See below:


Joe Z

 

Below are some super important posts I made MANY moons ago..

Hopefully this will help many of you, on common issues

 

I haven’t. I got super lazy after I ordered the lift. Now that it’s in, this is my main priority, and your wire twisting advice was on my radar. I’m getting a fresh sensor for good measure, going through looking for a leak, and making sure the wires are 100% not twisted. I’m tempted to remove the little spacer/restricter from the PPE O2 extension as well, but it behaved during the summer when it was hot, and the driver side isn’t throwing any codes, so it’s reasonable to assume it has the correct flow. I’m undecided if a drop in temperature could affect that, but would expect it to affect both banks, if it all.

 

Switching threads to keep this where it belongs.

So I had a good summer last year, but at the end of the summer started getting P0157. I followed JoeZ’s tips to no avail, so I’m going to fix the wiring in a different way.

You all have the privilege of training me.

I am doing as Lance suggested and putting uninsulated buttconnectors and marine grade shrink wrap over that. Idk why a Lexus tech didn’t do that… but I want it fixed correctly. He wants to solder it now, for reference.

Im ordering Kline crimpers unless you all suggest otherwise. I’ll need to add some wire length here, and put new ECU pins on the wires. What wire should I get, and where can I get new Ecu pins? My online searches aren’t helping. Is there an off the shelf ECU pin remover available for purchase?

Pics of the carnage for fun. This was officially the last time I had let someone else fix my car.