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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:46 AM
  #31  
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Thanks Lobux, ill PM you the sheet once I'm home.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 10:16 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mindcrime
my alignment from last week. tracks pretty straight, but sometimes feel like i need to move the steering wheel slightly to the right at times.
You could benefit from a subframe adjustment to balance out the front camber. Odds are the caster is also less than stellar for balance, but they didn't measure caster probably because there is really nothing easy you can do to fix it. Thrust angle is also a critical measurement, it should have been better after the alignment. Was it?

The other really important thing I see many alignment techs miss is tire pressure. You absolutely must adjust your tire pressure to be the same in all four wheels. The factory spec is 36 psi all around and their measurements are based on a car with the factory pressure. If you have variances in tire pressure your alignment numbers will be off. I have seen MANY alignment techs assume tire pressure is good. It's a bad assumption.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #33  
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thank you for your response. i'm not familiar with thrust angle, therefore i can't give my feedback on it. I'll call the alignment shop and ask about subframe alignment, if they don't know i'll call around for a shop that can. the tire pressure was off and i didn't have it check prior to alignment, thus it's probably off. the rears were like at 42 PSI-same shop put on tires the week before and i didn't have them checked prior to leaving as i had been there a while and was tired. I'll call the shop and ask tell them i'm not happy with the alignment and see if they can adjust with all tires at 36 PSI: will the later help? then ask about subframe alignment, but i doubt they do that.

suspension: KW V3 and RR Racing LCA Bushing, rear F-sport sway bar.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 10:42 AM
  #34  
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thank you for your response. i'm not familiar with thrust angle, therefore i can't give my feedback on it. I'll call the alignment shop and ask about subframe alignment, if they don't know i'll call around for a shop that can. the tire pressure was off and i didn't have it check prior to alignment, thus it's probably off. the rears were like at 42 PSI-same shop put on tires the week before and i didn't have them checked prior to leaving as i had been there a while and was tired. I'll call the shop and tell them i'm not happy with the alignment and see if they can adjust with all tires at 36 PSI: will the latter help? then ask about subframe alignment, but i doubt they do that.

p.s. current tire PSI is 38, which i had corrected after alignment.
​​​​​​​
suspension: KW V3 and RR Racing LCA Bushing, rear F-sport sway bar.
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 09:53 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mindcrime
possibly. where in Cali are you? i installed KW's, rear Bridgestone S04's and aligned, so maybe we can test drive each other's F for a comparison.
I am in the Orange County area. South OC in Lake Forest. I wouldnt mind that at all. i didnt feel it at all to and from work today but on Wed it was definitely there.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 08:16 AM
  #36  
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I'll be at irvine valley college today for my son's baseball camp(unless he flakes), so maybe we can meet up real quick. it starts at 1-3
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 10:20 PM
  #37  
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Another thing to look at is rear toe and rear toe balance. The earlier years had more bump steer but it can still be an issue with later models. It's truly a 4wheel steering suspension geometry with the rear toeing in under compression. By lengthening the rear toe link, we reduce the amount of steering input that the toe link provides. This creates a lot more stability at high speeds and cornering. It also eliminates that waggle you might feel when you hit a bump while cornering that has a tendency to upset the car. We have always advocated slightly more negative camber rear with longer effective to link set and static toe settings to 0.05 per side. The symmetry of the rear under load is very important to the overall balance of the car. Rear Toe links and our adjustable LCA are what we suggest.
Mike
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 07:07 AM
  #38  
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So, hopefully problem solved.

Car is having a new steering rack.
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 07:49 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by FlyTvr
So, hopefully problem solved.

Car is having a new steering rack.
​​​​​​​under warranty, or out of pocket?
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 02:00 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mindcrime
under warranty, or out of pocket?
​​​​​​​Warranty.
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 05:21 AM
  #41  
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So, new rack fitted. So far it looks good. Fingers crossed.

Price £3,500 (4364 USD) according to the service manager.
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 07:57 AM
  #42  
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The LHD version is $1700 USD. But I wouldn't pay that now that I have the new ECU. I considered it before the new ECU, but haven't felt the problem since.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:11 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
The LHD version is $1700 USD. But I wouldn't pay that now that I have the new ECU. I considered it before the new ECU, but haven't felt the problem since.
LHD? steering rack?
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 09:41 AM
  #44  
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Reached out to Lexus to get this fixed even though I'm out of warranty/SB period. If they won't I'm going to try replacing the ECU like Lobux did, I'll update either way.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 09:46 AM
  #45  
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Got my car back from the dealer... Of course they can't replicate it.. I will have to take it out again, but I went on a longer drive and I think I noticed something: that it happens only from going right to left.
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