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Nice job man! Thanks for posting all the pictures. Will make it easier for everyone. Read an article from RRRacing on their header install and they talked about removing four of the studs on the head to get the header in. Did you have to do this as well?
Nice job man! Thanks for posting all the pictures. Will make it easier for everyone. Read an article from RRRacing on their header install and they talked about removing four of the studs on the head to get the header in. Did you have to do this as well?
Installed my headers last weekend and I did not have to remove these studs. The drivers side was somewhat tight between the back studs and the steering shaft, but you can work it into place with a little effort. I actually found the hardest part was getting the dipstick tube to line up and re-seat correctly.
Yeah definitely didn't have to remove any of the studs. The headers slipped right on, it was a very tight space though. I noticed RRRacing wrapped their headers, maybe just that extra thickness made it so that removing the studs was required.
If you are installing your PPE headers unwrapped it definitely doesn't need any stud extraction.
No problem, if you drop your subframe with the rack and arms attached, where I circle it red is basically the only section that could throw off your alignment during reassembly. The rest of it will bolt back up without any change.
Just make sure during disassembly to accurately mark where the subframe sits at those circle locations and it should go back exactly as before with no change to your alignment. Oh and make sure to preload the suspension before tightening the sway-bar endlinks and shocks to the lower control arms.
That's pretty much how the dealer Techs do it...
Except they don't bother removing the Sway bar..
They disconnect the sway bar brackets from the top bolts.
Also, they make these nifty engine mount brackets to temporarily hold the motor in place, while on the lift.
Those engine mount brackets are indeed nifty!! Wonder if you can order them from Toyota/Lexus...
Yeah those little brackets definitely would have come in handy to free up some floor space underneath. I had to maneuver around a floor jack and scissor jack supporting the engine.
Why not just use an engine support bar across the top? I've done that with lots of FWD cars and my Supra when I had to fix an oil leak between the upper oil pan and the block.
Why not just use an engine support bar across the top? I've done that with lots of FWD cars and my Supra when I had to fix an oil leak between the upper oil pan and the block.
Ditto. Was going to do this when I got around to installing my headers.
I'd really like to be able to install headers myself.
Joe, are the nifty engine mount brackets used by the dealer techs a standard service tool?
Really prefer the idea of using an engine support bar across the top. It would certainly make for easier access from below.
I'd suggest supporting engine/transmission as specified in the directions (or with an engine bar from above). It allows you to completely remove the motor mounts from the block and gives you that much more access to everything.
04-29-16, 11:48 AM
