HELP! Car won't start.. need feedback ASAP!
11-24-13, 06:03 PM
#46
Look at those jerks' notes. Really? Because it HAS to be noted that there is aftermarket wheels and tires?? Can you pm me the service advisor's name? I'd like to say hi
11-26-13, 12:45 AM
#48
Those notes are more of a pre-caution just to cover their behind. It's nothing really serious and also if the aftermarket parts did cause any damage to the vehicle, they would have to have evidence of it.
11-26-13, 06:16 PM
#51
Such bull****, this dealership is inconsistent. They're giving customers the run around on leaking water pumps too. They have installed aftermarket parts for some, plugs from Sewell and brake components from tire rack for me, I know a starter is different in terms of overall function but where is the documented policy that lists these exceptions? This dealership is getting worse, might be time to find another ...
08-23-15, 09:29 PM
#52
exact same symptoms I am facing ... tried many things already - most likely my starter.
Good to know there is a way to access the starter - in the TIS lexus manual states to remove engine and transmission for replacement. I was freaking out ...
Seems the LS460 guys have more of these starter issues due to milage - but seems many of them switch them out themselves - their car probably has more room to access the starter.
I am going to attempt to see if I could get access to it.
The only slight bit of viewing the starter was through the Oil pan hole which I could not even verify cables - there is NO room up there ...
Good to know there is a way to access the starter - in the TIS lexus manual states to remove engine and transmission for replacement. I was freaking out ...
Seems the LS460 guys have more of these starter issues due to milage - but seems many of them switch them out themselves - their car probably has more room to access the starter.
I am going to attempt to see if I could get access to it.
The only slight bit of viewing the starter was through the Oil pan hole which I could not even verify cables - there is NO room up there ...
08-24-15, 07:48 AM
#53
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
It looks to me like you will need to drop the header to get clear access sufficient to remove the starter. Some claim to be able to do this without lowering the subframe, others have said no way to do it without. I haven't done this, so I really can't say one way or the other. Maybe some header installers can chime in?
08-24-15, 01:33 PM
#54
I hope after doing this it's the starter. No easy way like other cars to access the terminals to test if it is damaged
The car is in good condition I'd be very surprised if it's just a corroded cable / connection.
The battery is 6 months old. Someone used those special battery testers and said it was perfect almost 800 cca.
Would sick if after all this it is the battery. I tried leaving it on a charger and tried high amp start mode on the charger too.
The car is in good condition I'd be very surprised if it's just a corroded cable / connection.
The battery is 6 months old. Someone used those special battery testers and said it was perfect almost 800 cca.
Would sick if after all this it is the battery. I tried leaving it on a charger and tried high amp start mode on the charger too.
08-25-15, 09:39 AM
#55
Think about it
Rock auto lists a remanufactured Denso (This is OEM) for around $150.00 exchange.
That is a lot of money for a remanufactured starter so I'm assuming it is a good one. I'd also "maybe" keep the old one and see if it could be rebuilt by a local shop.
Had problems with starters on a Ford I had until I decided to step up and pay an extra $50.00 for a quality rebuild. It still was going strong after eleven years.
That is a lot of money for a remanufactured starter so I'm assuming it is a good one. I'd also "maybe" keep the old one and see if it could be rebuilt by a local shop.
Had problems with starters on a Ford I had until I decided to step up and pay an extra $50.00 for a quality rebuild. It still was going strong after eleven years.
08-25-15, 11:23 AM
#56
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
A lot of money for a reman unit? Have you seen retail on new? You'll fall out of your chair.
IME, the Bendix is the issue not the starter itself. I replaced the contacts in the starter on my Supra years ago, the kit was less than $20 at the time. The starter motor itself was in fine condition. This same thing is typically true for Denso alternators. You buy a brush kit and replace the brushes before they wear out and your alternator is like new for another 120k miles. Let it go too long and the diode bridge gets damaged by the worn out brushes and you're looking at a rebuilt alternator because you can't easily purchase the pieces that went bad. Toyota sells them as an assembly at nearly the full retail price of the unit, so actually fixing one yourself becomes uneconomical. The wife's Scion tC just went through this exercise because I was not paying attention to the brush service life. I'll take the under $20 fix every time if I can.
FWIW, the Bendix is 28150-38020 and runs about $140. A whole new starter is 28100-38020 and runs about $550.
Reman Denso from Rock Auto is $143 with a $60 core charge. I think that says a lot right there.
Also FYI for those of us at 120k miles, the alternator brushes are 27370-58460 and cost under $20 from any Internet Toyota retailer. They are widely used by Scion/Toyota/Lexus. Retail on a new alternator is $860, reman from Rock Auto is $131 with a $75 core charge.
IME, the Bendix is the issue not the starter itself. I replaced the contacts in the starter on my Supra years ago, the kit was less than $20 at the time. The starter motor itself was in fine condition. This same thing is typically true for Denso alternators. You buy a brush kit and replace the brushes before they wear out and your alternator is like new for another 120k miles. Let it go too long and the diode bridge gets damaged by the worn out brushes and you're looking at a rebuilt alternator because you can't easily purchase the pieces that went bad. Toyota sells them as an assembly at nearly the full retail price of the unit, so actually fixing one yourself becomes uneconomical. The wife's Scion tC just went through this exercise because I was not paying attention to the brush service life. I'll take the under $20 fix every time if I can.
FWIW, the Bendix is 28150-38020 and runs about $140. A whole new starter is 28100-38020 and runs about $550.
Reman Denso from Rock Auto is $143 with a $60 core charge. I think that says a lot right there.
Also FYI for those of us at 120k miles, the alternator brushes are 27370-58460 and cost under $20 from any Internet Toyota retailer. They are widely used by Scion/Toyota/Lexus. Retail on a new alternator is $860, reman from Rock Auto is $131 with a $75 core charge.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 08-25-15 at 11:41 AM.
08-29-15, 11:17 AM
#57
Just to close things off... It was the starter. Replaced and working fine. Dealer quote was over $3000.
I almost attempted it myself since I generally do not like anyone else touching the car. The access and job looked far too difficult.
Brought it to an independent shop. So far very happy with their work. My o2 sensor is fine. Doesn't sound like any exhaust leaks and the car is running great! Since the labour was quite intensive I settled to use an oem brand new part.
I almost attempted it myself since I generally do not like anyone else touching the car. The access and job looked far too difficult.
Brought it to an independent shop. So far very happy with their work. My o2 sensor is fine. Doesn't sound like any exhaust leaks and the car is running great! Since the labour was quite intensive I settled to use an oem brand new part.
09-15-15, 11:41 AM
#58
Driver School Candidate
Fellas - So this is what I've experienced; sounds like my issue is a little different:
-Tried to start the car and battery was completely dead (nothing in the car lights up) after driving it the night before with no issues.
-I jumped the car and I hear continuous clicking after trying several times but never started.
-I changed the battery and now it doesn't even click anymore; it basically turns off then restarts my dashboard lights. Radio, power seats, etc are not working either.
I'm not sure if it's the starter and/or alternator since the start of my problems was a completely dead battery. I should also mentioned I just got the ELF recall done no more than a week ago.
-Tried to start the car and battery was completely dead (nothing in the car lights up) after driving it the night before with no issues.
-I jumped the car and I hear continuous clicking after trying several times but never started.
-I changed the battery and now it doesn't even click anymore; it basically turns off then restarts my dashboard lights. Radio, power seats, etc are not working either.
I'm not sure if it's the starter and/or alternator since the start of my problems was a completely dead battery. I should also mentioned I just got the ELF recall done no more than a week ago.
11-05-15, 07:23 AM
#59
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It looks to me like you will need to drop the header to get clear access sufficient to remove the starter. Some claim to be able to do this without lowering the subframe, others have said no way to do it without. I haven't done this, so I really can't say one way or the other. Maybe some header installers can chime in?
I would really like to know this as well. Can it be changed without removing the engine/trans?
11-05-15, 09:48 AM
#60
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Yes, but the header has to come off. If you have a dealer do this, they won't drop the engine, but they will charge you book time to do the repair, and book time is based on following the factory service manual.