eoph

Well, I was trying to install the F-sport rear sway bar, since it looked simple enough, other than I wasn't able to get the bolt that holds the endlink and sway bar off. It's kinda rusty, so I started with a 5.5 allen key, then went to a 6, then now the 6 can't really hold it well enough for me to get it off.

Currently I'm driving the car with the bolt kinda half off, half on. Is there something I can do to get it off so I can install it?

Or if i have to take it to a shop, would i need to buy any replacement parts beforehand?

Thanks,
J

Evil Teo

iTrader: (13)

yea I encounter this as well. but we didn't strip it. we got the bar out with the endlinks and submerge it in a pan of oil or something. not sure what it was but we left it there for an hour. used a clamp and got the bolt off. having a lift also helps. thank god! make sure to put the car down before putting the bushings back so it is on naturally when the car is on the ground. i think lou might have mention that on his thread as well.

MisterSkiz

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear this happened to you.

I am in an area where they use salt on the roads as well, and I actually just took it to Lexus to have them do it.
I usually do all work to my cars myself.

Even the F Champion Tech had issues trying to get the sway bar off, he had to remove the surface rust and bathe the threads in wd40/rust remover to get the bolts off.

staman

iTrader: (1)

Wd40/rust remover works well. If that doesn't work you have to go to phase 2. Cook the thing with a propane torch for about 60 seconds till its cherry hot and it'll crack right off.

obby

iTrader: (9)

soak it with PB blaster, and if that doesnt work go to sear and get your self a nut splitter.

UCrazyKid

WD40 or PB blaster, soak and let sit over night.

eoph

Since the hex is stripped, will I still be able to reuse those endlinks = being able to tighten it up to spec, if i can get it off? Or so I have to buy new ones in preparation? The way I see it now, I have to use a vice grip or something to hold the threads, which could potentially damage them?

MisterSkiz

iTrader: (2)

You could always buy all new endlinks and bolts and cut everything off!

I would call that "paying for my education"

2ndGF

iTrader: (1)

You can always use a tap to get it out - next time use WD40 or a teflon based lubricant (TriFlo is my fav) and spray/soak the bolts before trying to get them off

Kramer

iTrader: (15)

I just purchased new endlinks, so my factory bar still has the endlinks on it. Way quicker!! I noticed the rust before doing the job and just ordered new endlinks aswell for a painfree install!!!

NYC ES3

iTrader: (7)

now theres a man workin smart not hard!
pound for pound - your time is worth the endlink purchase

eoph

Just to make sure it's correct, i'm buying these from Sewell.
LINK ASSEMBLY, REAR STABILIZER (RIGHT / PASSENGER SIDE)
Part #: 4883030090 (In Stock)
LINK ASSEMBLY, REAR STABILIZER (LEFT / DRIVER SIDE)
Part #: 4883030090 (In Stock)

Also is there anything special about the end link install? looks to be just 1 bolt that holds the other end together.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

This is why I live in the South and have air tools.

My Supra still looks like it rolled off the showroom floor underneath.

A decent 1/2" drive air wrench will make short work of any nut. Add PB blaster and it's a walk in the park.

gpomp

I had to do this as mine were rusty.

Kramer

iTrader: (15)

Just keep an eye out if your car is equipped with AFS in your headlights that...that sensor is mounted on the endlink on drivers side. Make sure it stays in its current position and not "fall" to the side...in turn, making your AFS light blink. Other than that, pretty straight forward install! Good luck!!