ToothDoc

Hey PSJ, nice to see you here again. I still have the Lexus, but since it hasn't been improved in any way since last year, I'm not running it at the strip anymore (until I get racing seats or something). Having said that, I've run a 10.9@128 with my new car. I have a year pass at GLD but I usually don't go drag racing until the temp drops to 40s. This fall, I'm going to see if I can break the all stock record of 10.67 for my new car. I would like to hit 10.5xx@130. We'll see...

jleonard71

That looks a lot like the Odyssey PC680 that some guys on here are running in their F, which also weighs in at 15lb. I was thinking about picking up one of those, but a 3.5lb battery is even more enticing than 15lb.

PSJ

Yeah it's about 15 lbs. I don't know if I have the right posts for my application, he had it in a 2000 Firebird Formula.

Tooth, what did you get, Nissan GTR? I don't recall if I saw any of you guys at the 1/2 mile race a few weeks ago. I was helping with a 2002 TransAm drag car.

I cut a 1.66 on my Nittos but I think I will go one more time to hopefully go at least 12.1 stock internal.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Has any more work gone into this the past two years? My battery is only a year old and in no danger of failing any time soon, but I love the idea of an ultra lightweight battery up front instead of relocating a heavier battery to the trunk.

I looked around a bit on eBay for LiFePO4 and found a couple interesting options, such as A123's with welding tabs already attached to the terminals, or 50 aH "E-bike/motor-cycle" units with +/- labeled M10 screw terminals. I don't know enough about DIY'ing batteries to know if the latter could have two wired together for a 4.5 lb no-solder, easy hookup option? Actually, the same seller has a 130 aH option in a 3.5 kg (7.7 lb) package, claiming e-vehicle usage. The OP mentioned 23 aH out of a 7 lb DIY setup, but I don't know if that's an apples to oranges comparison.

teamcalvin

Man idk about these.. doesn't look safe haha

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

My friend who has a mustang is using the 720 cranking amp version of these http://antigravitybatteries.com/oem-case-clymb/

Price isn't bad from what I've seen compared to similar batteries

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I did some additional browsing and found this:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...estions/57030/

Which in turn lead to these two products of potential interest:

http://www.ballisticparts.com/catego...?cPath=142_151
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ePo4_Pack.html

sulaman58

how many of those hobbykings batteries would i need to wire in parallel to be safe?

or would anyone have a parts list and wiring diagram for how they made their battery?

nikogio38

Any update on if this setup is still performing

juanmedina

Do you guys think 16 Panasonic NCR18650B in a 4s4p work fine as a car battery? they have more capacity than others.

ToothDoc

Hahaha LOL, old thread. This battery worked for almost 3 years... until I got my car detailed at Lexus and they left the car door open for hours until the battery died. Since then, one of the cells had gotten bad and wouldn't recharge. My newest version was better because it had a cell balancer so all the cells would stay balanced and it worked awesome on my 911.

The LiFePO4 batteries are ideal - DO NOT USE LIPOS. The voltage for the LiFePO4 cells are almost and exact match for traditional car's charging system. LIPOS can blow up and burn up your car and the voltage is too high.

Juan, if you use the Panasonic cells, I'm sure it'll work. Just make sure it can crank out 500 amps during cold weather. I used an ammeter on the stock system and during cold startups, the IS-F needs over 500 amps!!!

Drok149

http://www.lithiumaviationbattery.com/ which battery on that site would work best for our application?

Vervish

iTrader: (4)

What is the round thing next to the battery on the passenger fender? Is it another horn?

ToothDoc

I'd say at minimum the 800 CCA one.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

The ratings are much different for lithium and lead-acid.