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I’m not too sure, closest dynojet to me is an hr away, so, doing mods individually then seeing their effectiveness is inconvenient. When I make it out to the dyno next week, I might flash the stock tune then flash the VR and compare. My butt dyno told me that it took about a day for the VR tune to “kick in” so idk.
I’m not too sure, closest dynojet to me is an hr away, so, doing mods individually then seeing their effectiveness is inconvenient. When I make it out to the dyno next week, I might flash the stock tune then flash the VR and compare. My butt dyno told me that it took about a day for the VR tune to “kick in” so idk.
The problem with flashing between tunes at the dyno is the KCLV ( knock correction learned value) will reset to 15, this will result in the pcm pulling timing to prevent detonation and a loss of hp. If you have not measured your KCLV, I would reccommed you do so, when it gets to the 24-25 level you will be getting maximum ignition timing and hp. There are ways to get the kclv to the maximum, but it takes time for the pcm to learn.
The problem with flashing between tunes at the dyno is the KCLV ( knock correction learned value) will reset to 15, this will result in the pcm pulling timing to prevent detonation and a loss of hp. If you have not measured your KCLV, I would reccommed you do so, when it gets to the 24-25 level you will be getting maximum ignition timing and hp. There are ways to get the kclv to the maximum, but it takes time for the pcm to learn.
thanks for the link, good read. It makes sense to me, I just couldn’t explain the reasoning for the ecu needing to “learn” the modifications. Not going to reflash for the dyno then for time/money. If I had a plethora of disposable income, easy day. I will dyno with the mods I have now to compare to my stock!
Went to the 1/8th mile Friday. Was 71 degrees with a DA of 1700. Rr tune, intake, gutted stock headers and PPE exhaust. 18 inch Volks, 285/30 advan a048, 1/4 tank and no spare or tools.
BirgeyT1, thats a very good 1/8th considering a DA of 1700... Is that the first run you made with the poly bushings in the rear diff and did you notice an improvement in traction with them?
BirgeyT1, thats a very good 1/8th considering a DA of 1700... Is that the first run you made with the poly bushings in the rear diff and did you notice an improvement in traction with them?
I never ran without them in this car but I did in my first ISF and that one would wheel hop really bad. With the poly bushings I did not get any wheel hop but I don't know if I'd really say they improve traction.
BirgeyT1, thats a very good 1/8th considering a DA of 1700... Is that the first run you made with the poly bushings in the rear diff and did you notice an improvement in traction with them?
That is good. My best 1/8th was 8.23 so far. It yielded a 12.65 quarter.
Update on some times. This is at the track running 4.29 gal of E-85 and 9.88 of 93 oct. My ECU doesn’t have a flash for the blend, but since I blended, KCLV went from 17.8 to 21.5 while logging with the tonwon and OBD Fusion. Still on 255/35 Michelin Pilot Sports A/S 3+ With about 50% tread. I’m Car #13.
Car #13 Corrected DA. Against the new Mustang GT A10. Driver MOD
Made it out to the track last night on the drag radials. DA of around 1750, 20 mph headwind. My first pass was my best pass and probably would've been a high 12.1 but of course they had just reset the timing and it only gave me my 1/8th mile. Second pass was my second best and netted a 12.23@115.1. With the DA corrected (pic attached) it looks like I would've gotten my 11 After that the track got slick. This was under a 1/4 tank, long press off on TC, sport mode, manual shifting. Also, question for you guys. I can't for the life of me get both wheels to spin on the burnout so what's the trick? Car is a 2008 but I don't see others having this issue. Do I need to shift into second on the burnout? Also, is this a record for stock headers? I've also attached videos of the burnout and the 12.23 run as attachments where you can see only one tire spinning. Mods are as follows:
RR Racing Tune
RR Racing Intake
Gutted stock headers PE catback with muffler delete
17x8 +35 rear wheels w/ 245/45/17 Hoosier DR2's
no tools/spare/engine covers
Last edited by BirgeyT1; Apr 13, 2019 at 08:32 AM.
The '08s have an open diff from the factory and the eLSD doesn't kick in at burnout speeds. If you really want both to spin, you need some kind of LSD spool like the '10 and later model Torsen. Poor man's LSD is to put the parking brake on just enough to imitate a clutch type LSD. I've done that when stuck in other RWD cars. Not sure how great it would be for a full burnout though. I permanently solved this with a Giken TCD. Huge difference in how the car performs compared to the open diff.
The '08s have an open diff from the factory and the eLSD doesn't kick in at burnout speeds. If you really want both to spin, you need some kind of LSD spool like the '10 and later model Torsen. Poor man's LSD is to put the parking brake on just enough to imitate a clutch type LSD. I've done that when stuck in other RWD cars. Not sure how great it would be for a full burnout though. I permanently solved this with a Giken TCD. Huge difference in how the car performs compared to the open diff.
Thanks for the info. Would the Cusco diff make the same difference as the Giken or is the giken superior? Speaking from a strictly drag racing standpoint.
Last edited by BirgeyT1; Apr 13, 2019 at 03:20 PM.
After that the track got slick. This was under a 1/4 tank, long press off on TC, sport mode, manual shifting. Also, question for you guys. I can't for the life of me get both wheels to spin on the burnout so what's the trick? Car is a 2008 but I don't see others having this issue. Do I need to shift into second on the burnout? Also, is this a record for stock headers? I've also attached videos of the burnout and the 12.23 run as attachments where you can see only one tire spinning. Mods are as follows:
