Question: Can someone illustrate how to wire in the new OEM style switch as a replacement for the original switch that came with the harness supplied by Hooker?

Backstory: I am currently installing a pair of Hooker electric cutouts. The cutouts have two modes - either fully closed or fully open. They do not open partially. Both cutouts have been welded in and have been tested as functional with the wiring harness and switch supplied with the kit. In an effort to try and keep things looking as OEM as possible in the cabin, I have purchased this switch from CH4X4 (https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-...es-for-toyota/). The goal is to remove the switch that came with the wiring harness and replace it with the new switch from CH4X4.

Original switch (to be removed) - This switch has three positions - the first is the middle, resting position. The other two are ON and OFF. When you move the switch to either ON or OFF and release, it will return to the original middle, resting position:


New switch packaging w/instructions


New OEM style switch installed into dash in both ON/OFF positions:
ON:




OFF:




Here is a diagram that I briefly created:

 

You purchased an on/off switch to replace a 2 way, perhaps im missing something but not seeing how this will wire up to perform 2 functions, a 2 way rocker would be ideal. The custom button is nice though!

 

It's an SPST switch with illumination. Pretty clear from the diagram what is needed. Power and ground for the illumination, power and output to run the device when the switch is closed. His schematic shows running ground to the devices, but there's no need to do that. Just connect the ground to chassis for the cutouts and the switch. It will work just fine that way and won't have ground loop issues.

 

Lobuxracer - From what I understand, the revisions are below. Boxed in purple is the currently installed and functioning harness that was provided by Hooker with the kit. I don't intend to use the illumination feature of the switch as the LED provided is very powerful and looks out of place against the dated green OEM lighting in the rest of the dash.

That said, we have 4 unconnected wires remaining:

The GREEN wire from the new switch should go to the RED wire from the junction box, and the RED wire from the switch should go to the WHITE wire from the junction box, correct?

 

Red/Yellow and Black are only for the illumination of the switch. If you don't want that, don't connect either of them. Green is connected to power and Red is output to device. I wouldn't wire the circuit as shown. I'd ditch the junction box entirely, connect the red output from the switch to the red connection on the splitter, and connect either the black wire at the splitter to ground or connect the individual motor black wires to a chassis ground. The rest is unnecessary. If you wanted to limit the current through the switch, you could add a relay where the splitter is to handle the motor current, but that would be the only other thing I would consider. It would be slightly more complicated, but also simpler and more protected.