Any chance you have a multimeter that you can check to see if the MPX fuse actually has battery voltage at it? I know the fuse isn't blown, but does it have power.

Just looking at the Clock...if the MPX and ECU-ACC fuses both have power, then the clock has to work unless there is an issue with the Clock itself, or the wiring to and from the Clock.
Assuming nothing has happened to the wiring, then it's either the Clock or the power supplies to the Clock. The Clock circuit is one of the simplest circuits in the car...it has 5 wires...2 power (10A MPX-B No.1 and 7.5A ECU-ACC), 1 ground, 2 illumination.
Does the Clock light up when you turn the taillights/headlights on?

As for the Hazard switch, when you press the button it actually sends a signal to the Combination Meter (your instrument cluster). The Meter has the Flasher built in, and turns on all the turn signals.
The Meter has 2 power feeds from the battery (10A MPX-B No.1 and 15A HAZ), that's why it doesn't matter if the car is on or off, the Hazards will always work. The fact they work only with the car on tells me the 15A HAZ fuse is ok.

The Smart Touch door handles are controlled by the Certification ECU...the Certification ECU has 2 power feeds from the battery, the 10A MPX-B No.1 and 7.5A AM2 fuses.

Call me crazy, but of the three things you observed not working there is one common denominator.

 

Could still be your ‘new’ battery. A new battery has been sitting on a shelf and unlikely to be fully charged when you buy it and install it. Best advice I’ve heard is to put that new battery on a 10 amp charger overnight before installing it.

 

Unfortunately in previous posts he stated the car starts and he's driven it around for at least an hour....that automatically rules out the issue being the new battery.

 

This is an interesting thread to read and while I am feeling horrible for the OP, I am really curious to hear the outcome. Sasnuke, you are a wealth of information my friend - not sure how you do it but it sure is appreciated. My gut feeling is like yours, a mouse may be have caused this issue, my garage is spotless and such but one night, I just opened one of my garage door to bring one car out and the other one in, and I saw a little mouse crawl in the garage. I was freaking out too and luckily, I had a trap available and set it out and it fell for it before it did anything to my vehicles. Those little buggers can do so much damage!

 

@Sasnuke
I don't have a multi-meter but probably can test the continuity with a AA battery a wire and a small bulb...but I did already substitute that fuse with another one that was a spare from the other fuse box under the hood. There are 3 spares there 10a, 20, 30a.

As for the clock light....doesn't turn on at all. With car on or off and turning car headlights on or off.....no combination of any turns that clock light on. The other background lights do turn on (i.e. the radio dials, etc) with car on and headlights on.

Another interesting thing I did while checking the clock......with car off....I turned on the headlights and they do come on, but all the other background lights do not....again...this is with the car completely off.

Agree with @wthrman2 ..... @Sasnuke is a wealth of info and I appreciate it very much!
I don't mind being the center of attention sometimes.....but this is definitely not one of those times!
I almost want to take a sledge hammer to the dashboard!

Any other thoughts?

 

Have you considered burning it? (lol) Sorry, couldn't resist it

 

What he means is to check the voltage at the fuse box at that location to make sure it is getting power. With the fuse removed, one side of fuse socket should be receiving battery power from upstream, which would then pass through the fuse to down stream accessories. If the fuse box itself is not receiving power at that location then the issue would likely be in the wiring upstream.

 

Yes...exactly that. Given the fuse box is literally right next to the battery, there isn't much between the two but some wires.

 

As for the clock light....doesn't turn on at all. With car on or off and turning car headlights on or off.....no combination of any turns that clock light on. The other background lights do turn on (i.e. the radio dials, etc) with car on and headlights on.
Based on this observation, that narrows the issue down to the wires that go to the Clock, or the Clock itself. I did notice a couple posts on the forum regarding the Clock failing...but it was just a couple, nothing crazy like the usual radio or Amp threads.
Because the illumination circuit is seperate from the circuit that makes the Clock operate, for them both to fail at the same time it has to come down to the Clock or the wires to the Clock from the main harness. Barring something like a mouse, we are back to the Clock itself.
Of course the Clock issue doesn't address everything else happening with the vehicle.
The Clock is in the center dash, but the wires for it join to the main harness at a connector behind the Combination Meter.

Considering the issues you are having are completely unrelated, meaning the Hazard switch has nothing to do with the Clock, Wireless Door Locks, or Touch handles...and none of the systems has anything to do with the other...if I had money to bet I'd be back at a rodent again.
This is assuming the MPX fuse is actually getting power from the battery. If the MPX fuse is not getting power from the battery, then the issue is literally right where the fuse box and battery are. Could a mouse have gotten in the fuse box at the battery? Or inside the car behind the glovebox?
There is also the TRAC light on that we don't know what the code is for...so that could literally be anything.

I wish I had another idea of what to check, but without some voltage readings to figure out where the power is stopping, it's just a guessing game now.
I hate to say it, but you might be taking this to the shop.

 

To start the car, do you have to put the Smart Key up to the Push button? Or would it start if the key was in your pocket?

 

@wthrman2
Match was lit ....wind came and blew it out! ;-)

@Sasnuke
No...car starts no problem at all with key in pocket.

Thank you for the continued help....BUT I gave up and gave in.....I can't deal with this anymore....I need to be able to listen to my AC/DC "Hells Bells" while driving....so I'm probably going to disappoint you all and be thrown out of the Man club but I caved and took car into Lexus dealer. They had it for a an hour and couldn't figure it out and now I'm paying for them to find the issue....first hour was free. They will credit me the fee for any parts an labor. Sorry to disappoint.

Once I get it back, I'll come back here and let you know what the issue was.

:-(

 

I actually think you did the wise thing (other than using a match on a windy day). I can't wait to hear what the actual outcome will be - we should start you a gofund me page

 

OP - Any updates?

 

okay folks....here is the update......and I'm soooo embarrassed!!!!! (sorry it took so long to post update)

So first let me say @Sasnuke ....you were spot on regarding the MX fuse! And I owe you an apology for making you doubt yourself because of my stupidity!!! Explanation below.
So....as I mentioned at the beginning.... the car had absolutely no power after sitting for 5 days. I jump started the car and everything seemed normal until I turned on radio....radio turned on but no sound.....and no sound from navigation system...and no sound using phone via blue tooth.

So here is where I guess I am fuzzy but basically screwed up, but I'm not sure in what order this happened because I was so frustrated.
Long story made short, the radio issue turned out to be amplifier and everything else was the MX fused not put in the right socket.
So somehow, in my trying to diagnose, I didn't pay attention when which item wouldn't work when I started playing with the fused to check to see if they were blown and wound up pulling the MX fuse...checking it, and then putting it back in wrong slot.
In my stupidity, I created a bigger problem by not slowing down and tracking specifics.



​​@Sasnuke some day I owe you at minimum a beer or 2!

Now....I 'm still curious whey batter went dead and amplifier died at same time.

 

Let's chalk this one up to a learning experience.

It's possible the Amp died first and took the battery with it.
Parasitic draw that kills batteries typically comes from some electronic device left on...i.e. a light
In cases where components malfunction, they could still be on even when the car is off...as they have a circuit supplying battery power to them.
In this case it was likely the Amp...although not typical for the Amp to fail in this way, they usually just stop working altogether.
I think back to my 2007 Sienna that had the battery die after 7 years...I thought it was just the battery, turns out the dealer installed optional DVD player that stopped working not too long after the warranty expired started moving the laser reader for the disc while the vehicle was off.
Within 2 days the battery would die...I was lucky enough to be sitting in the van when it was super quiet and heard a very faint ticking...after moving my ears around the cabin I finally landed on the DVD player...and the vehicle was off the entire time.

End of the day the cause and solution were found.