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The two covers that surround the spiral cable need to come apart...specifically the bottom one needs to come off, then you will see K26 on the right.
That would explain why then, the connector is before the clock spring? ANyways, as far as I am able to currently tell, I was able to find switched power at the Cruise control pin located here.
That would explain why then, the connector is before the clock spring? ANyways, as far as I am able to currently tell, I was able to find switched power at the Cruise control pin located here.
K26 is the connector coming from the vehicle that goes into the Spiral Cable...z4 and z5 are the connectors coming out of the Spiral Cable.
You may want to consider if you want to use that wire.
It may effect the operation of the Cruise Control switch functions, and that circuit goes directly back to the Engine ECM.
It's not really ignition switched power, it's ECM switched power...if you fudge it up, the ECM may not like it.
K26 is the connector coming from the vehicle that goes into the Spiral Cable...z4 and z5 are the connectors coming out of the Spiral Cable.
You may want to consider if you want to use that wire.
It may effect the operation of the Cruise Control switch functions, and that circuit goes directly back to the Engine ECM.
It's not really ignition switched power, it's ECM switched power...if you fudge it up, the ECM may not like it.
Yah, I spoke to soon, it does read 12v, but it must be pulsed or something, because I am unable to get anything electronic to work correctly from this connection.
So I was able to finally not be a complete idiot, and found the K26 connector you have diagrammed. Pins 7 and 14 do have wires, and I did not do a continuity test on them, but I am guessing they are for the paddle shifters, since those are not mentioned in the harness, even though they are in the Z4. I was able to find that interestingly enough, pin 4 on K26 (suppose to be a ground) is empty, and has continuity to the empty pin 9 on Z4. This is interesting, because according to the diagrams, those pins match up, but they are suppose to be grounds.
Anyways, now that I have verified an open spot with continuity, do you know how would one go about figuring out what pins to get for these plugs?
Last edited by ihateu3; Sep 17, 2020 at 09:40 PM.
Reason: Corrected the plug names
So I was able to finally not be a complete idiot, and found the K26 connector you have diagrammed. Pins 7 and 14 do have wires, and I did not do a continuity test on them, but I am guessing they are for the paddle shifters, since those are not mentioned in the harness, even though they are in the Z4 and Z5 connectors. I was able to find that interestingly enough, pin 4 on K26 (suppose to be a ground) is empty, and has continuity to the empty pin 9 on the previous connector pictured. This is interesting, because according to the diagrams, those pins match up, but they are suppose to be grounds.
Anyways, now that I have verified an open spot with continuity, do you know how would one go about figuring out what pins to get for these plugs?
You found it...awesome!
Ok...Pin 7 and 14 was my bad...when I scoured the diagrams I was focused on all the switches on the front of the steering wheel and I forgot about the ones on the back...the paddles.
I've updated the chart below for anyone to reference...the Ground is present if you have the VGRS steering...which I'm going to now assume you don't.
To address how to get wires connected to these connectors, you can actually purchase the terminal with a length of wire already attached...then you just insert the pin and viola! The connector may have a lock that needs to be released...but that can be easily addressed later.
You can then join what wires you need from your component to the those wires...sounds easy...almost!
For the z4 connector (this the Black one on the left of the steering wheel connectors) the female terminal is part number:
82998-12870
or
82998-12860 (Gold terminal)
In terms of fitment, both above are identical...the difference is the second part number has a gold plating on the terminal.
So which one do you order? Look at the male pin on the Spiral Cable that the female terminal will line up with...if the male terminal is gold plated, then order the second part number above. If it's not gold plated, then order the first part number.
The terminal only goes into the connector one way...so if you're pushing and it seems like it doesn't want to go, then turn it around.
For the K26 connector, the female terminal part numbers are:
82998-24290
or
82998-24300 (Gold plated)
or
82998-24390 (Gold plated)
This one is a little bit harder. The first two part numbers is the same deal as the z4...if the male terminal is gold plated, then use the second part number, if not, use the first.
Why is there a third part number? So apparently in connector K26 there is actually 2 types of female terminals. The first type is part numbers one and two above (non-gold plated or gold plated), and the other type is the third part number.
Because the pin cavity is empty, I don't know which one is supposed to be in there...the first type or the second type.
If the corresponding male pin on the Spiral Cable is not gold plated, then it would be easy...it's the first part number above.
If the male pin is gold plated, then I suggest to order one each of the second and third part number, and return the one you don't use. Only the correct one will lock into the pin cavity.
To address how to get wires connected to these connectors, you can actually purchase the terminal with a length of wire already attached...then you just insert the pin and viola! The connector may have a lock that needs to be released...but that can be easily addressed later.
You can then join what wires you need from your component to the those wires...sounds easy...almost!
For the z4 connector (this the Black one on the left of the steering wheel connectors) the female terminal is part number:
82998-12870
or
82998-12860 (Gold terminal)
In terms of fitment, both above are identical...the difference is the second part number has a gold plating on the terminal.
So which one do you order? Look at the male pin on the Spiral Cable that the female terminal will line up with...if the male terminal is gold plated, then order the second part number above. If it's not gold plated, then order the first part number.
The terminal only goes into the connector one way...so if you're pushing and it seems like it doesn't want to go, then turn it around.
For the K26 connector, the female terminal part numbers are:
82998-24290
or
82998-24300 (Gold plated)
or
82998-24390 (Gold plated)
This one is a little bit harder. The first two part numbers is the same deal as the z4...if the male terminal is gold plated, then use the second part number, if not, use the first.
Why is there a third part number? So apparently in connector K26 there is actually 2 types of female terminals. The first type is part numbers one and two above (non-gold plated or gold plated), and the other type is the third part number.
Because the pin cavity is empty, I don't know which one is supposed to be in there...the first type or the second type.
If the corresponding male pin on the Spiral Cable is not gold plated, then it would be easy...it's the first part number above.
If the male pin is gold plated, then I suggest to order one each of the second and third part number, and return the one you don't use. Only the correct one will lock into the pin cavity.
Thanks, mine are gold, so I will get both. You have been a tremendous help! ***Edit, the last gold number is hard to find (82998-24390), so I will just start with the first one, and see.
Originally Posted by Sasnuke
Do you plan on using Pin 1 and 2 on connector z5? That's the white steering wheel connector for cruise.
No, I do not plan on using these, I know one of the empty spaces is somehow connected to the horn, since when I was testing for 12v, there was 12v there, and the horn honked.
Thanks, mine are gold, so I will get both. You have been a tremendous help! ***Edit, the last gold number is hard to find (82998-24390), so I will just start with the first one, and see.
No, I do not plan on using these, I know one of the empty spaces is somehow connected to the horn, since when I was testing for 12v, there was 12v there, and the horn honked.
The difference between 24300 and 24390 is almost insignificant...hopefully it is a 24300 that fits in that space.
I rechecked the horn circuit, and it only has the one wire that goes to the z4 connector pin 9.
Also rechecked the z5 pins 1 and 2...1 is for the Dynamic Cruise Mode selector button (which you don't have) and 2 should be empty. Not sure how you got the Horn to sound.
The Horn terminal on z4 is used to Ground the Horn circuit. When you press the Horn pad (the airbag basically), that Grounds that terminal through the frame of the steering wheel.
Unless you were using the 12V on the Horn wire to test the other terminals, and z5 pin 2 goes to Ground, then through the meter the Horn would have Grounded and honked.
Nonetheless you got it working and have a couple spare circuits.
I ordered 82998-12860 for Z4 and 82998-24300 for K26.
I was able to get them both to work, however both of them (especially the Z4 pin) was super tight, causing the wires to do a 90 bend on the backside of the terminal when trying to insert. I was able to finally get them down in enough with a pick to get power through them, but they never provided the nice "click" sound, so I am unsure if they are fully seated, but they currently work. I have replaced plenty of pins when wiring a 2JZ into my old Celica Supra, but none of them ever seemed tight, and they all just slid in with ease and locked, maybe things just have a tighter tolerance and friction fit with the lock of the pin?
The pins will only go in one way, and they should slide right in and lock in place.
Question: Aside from the lock for each pin, the connector has a lock on the body of the connector. Did you release the lock on the body of the connector? Without releasing this lock it's almost impossible to get a pin out...or in.
Based on your pic in post #20 above, this lock is the whiteish grayish piece on the opposite side of the connector from the side that has the release tab (for when disconnecting the connector).
The pins will only go in one way, and they should slide right in and lock in place.
Question: Aside from the lock for each pin, the connector has a lock on the body of the connector. Did you release the lock on the body of the connector? Without releasing this lock it's almost impossible to get a pin out...or in.
Based on your pic in post #20 above, this lock is the whiteish grayish piece on the opposite side of the connector from the side that has the release tab (for when disconnecting the connector).
Oh no, I feel soo stupid!
I am use to working on older Toyotas, and none of them have a seperate lock on the connector, you just insert the pin, and the lock on the pin catches the connector lip and locks. Well, they work for now, and I have learned something new that I never knew about. If I have to buy new ones in the future, I only have myself to blame. I can't believe I messed up something so simple, but that's what happens when you are use to doing something a certain way.
If you're looking from Ignition switched 12V inside the steering wheel, there is none. The lights and buttons are not Ignition fed.
Maybe if you can describe what you are trying to install we may be able to provide an alternative solution.
MASTER SASNUKE, I NEED SOME HELP:
I have a new steering wheel with LED shift lights for my 2017 IS. I am finding no information for this model year. The only thoughts I have heard is that I can tap into the 12 V that feeds the backlit buttons on my steering wheel but that would require me to have my tail lights on, a.k.a. my headlights on manually. I am totally OK with doing this, but still I have no idea where this wire that feeds the 12 V to the backlit buttons is located on my 2017. Anything helps. Thank you!!
MASTER SASNUKE, I NEED SOME HELP:
I have a new steering wheel with LED shift lights for my 2017 IS. I am finding no information for this model year. The only thoughts I have heard is that I can tap into the 12 V that feeds the backlit buttons on my steering wheel but that would require me to have my tail lights on, a.k.a. my headlights on manually. I am totally OK with doing this, but still I have no idea where this wire that feeds the 12 V to the backlit buttons is located on my 2017. Anything helps. Thank you!!
The diagram i put in post #21 above (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10895252) is basically the same for the 2017-2020 IS...the Horn wires are the only difference.
As indicated in the post before it, K26 pin 4 and z4 pin 9 were used to pass 12V through the Spiral Cable to the steering wheel as the OP's vehicle did not have VGRS.
You can get an Ignition 12V source from the fuse panel under the dash.
What model 2017 IS do you have? And does it have VGRS?
The diagram i put in post #21 above (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10895252) is basically the same for the 2017-2020 IS...the Horn wires are the only difference.
As indicated in the post before it, K26 pin 4 and z4 pin 9 were used to pass 12V through the Spiral Cable to the steering wheel as the OP's vehicle did not have VGRS.
You can get an Ignition 12V source from the fuse panel under the dash.
What model 2017 IS do you have? And does it have VGRS?
Thank you for your response! I’m not sure if I have VGRS on my car. I have a 2017 is200t. I was informed by another person that the red wire (I will attach below) would send a 12V current as long as my headlights were on. So pretty much the illumination for the buttons on my steering wheel controls. And that I can ground it to the area shown below or one like it. And I see you talked about the pin 9 and pin 24 passing 12V but do they ever shut off or are able to be shut off and turned on in a controlled way. I appreciate all of your help!! Thank you.