All about Lexus IS No Sound (Volume) - Amplifier failure
Advanced
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 653
Likes: 96
From: PA
.BTW...thanks so much for all the help you provide to us noobs here. You're an excellent, trusted source!
Last edited by ShrinkDoc; Jun 10, 2021 at 02:41 AM.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: amman
Ideally you want the same faceplate ID to ensure 100% compatibility.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
does it fit to what part nm you told me about? Sorry i have to make sure before buying because its expensive.thx
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: amman
Ideally you want the same faceplate ID to ensure 100% compatibility.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
is that the id nm??
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
The Faceplate ID is the number that starts with "P" on the front of the radio in the lower left corner...in your case I believe that is P10443 as you indicated in the other thread.
In the western hemisphere of the world P10443 is part number 86804-53291 (which is a replacement of 86804-53290).
It seems in your part of the world, Faceplate ID P10443 is actually part number 86804-53131. This specific part number we don't get here, we only get the 86804-53291.
It's going to be tough to say what radio you could actually use unless you can find one with the same Faceplate ID and part number.
In the western hemisphere of the world P10443 is part number 86804-53291 (which is a replacement of 86804-53290).
It seems in your part of the world, Faceplate ID P10443 is actually part number 86804-53131. This specific part number we don't get here, we only get the 86804-53291.
It's going to be tough to say what radio you could actually use unless you can find one with the same Faceplate ID and part number.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: amman
Ideally you want the same faceplate ID to ensure 100% compatibility.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
Faceplate ID P10443 is part number 86804-53291.
You could also try Faceplate ID P10984 which is part number 86804-53R40.
Unfortunately we don't have any kind of cross reference chart to show what alternate radios will work in what vehicles.
It's literally trial and error. If you do attempt to install the P10984 radio, let us know the result.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: amman
The Faceplate ID is the number that starts with "P" on the front of the radio in the lower left corner...in your case I believe that is P10443 as you indicated in the other thread.
In the western hemisphere of the world P10443 is part number 86804-53291 (which is a replacement of 86804-53290).
It seems in your part of the world, Faceplate ID P10443 is actually part number 86804-53131. This specific part number we don't get here, we only get the 86804-53291.
It's going to be tough to say what radio you could actually use unless you can find one with the same Faceplate ID and part number.
In the western hemisphere of the world P10443 is part number 86804-53291 (which is a replacement of 86804-53290).
It seems in your part of the world, Faceplate ID P10443 is actually part number 86804-53131. This specific part number we don't get here, we only get the 86804-53291.
It's going to be tough to say what radio you could actually use unless you can find one with the same Faceplate ID and part number.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 24
Likes: 2
From: Ontario
@Sasnuke Glad you were able to fix your amp!
how did you determine it was the amp at the end of the day. Im guessing all of your power sources and grounds were getting the necessary voltage and only thing left was to check the amplifier. Glad your friend was able to help you out and you were able to document the whole thing on the forum for others to learn from!
how did you determine it was the amp at the end of the day. Im guessing all of your power sources and grounds were getting the necessary voltage and only thing left was to check the amplifier. Glad your friend was able to help you out and you were able to document the whole thing on the forum for others to learn from!
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
@Sasnuke Glad you were able to fix your amp!
how did you determine it was the amp at the end of the day. Im guessing all of your power sources and grounds were getting the necessary voltage and only thing left was to check the amplifier. Glad your friend was able to help you out and you were able to document the whole thing on the forum for others to learn from!
how did you determine it was the amp at the end of the day. Im guessing all of your power sources and grounds were getting the necessary voltage and only thing left was to check the amplifier. Glad your friend was able to help you out and you were able to document the whole thing on the forum for others to learn from!
First step was physical inspection...removed the Amp, took it apart, and found corrosion...it was then pointed out to me that a resistor was missing off the board, which coincides with the very, very tiny component that came off when I was cleaning the corrosion.
I figured the resistor would need to be replaced before even bothering with any further diagnostic steps like checking for power/ground.
After replacing the resistor and reflowing the other chip that was corroded...viola, sound restored. Reflowing the other chip was more of a precaution than a necessary step.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: International
Need help on this
i have a 2010 ISF, mark levinson system, CD/DVD is playing fine... just the AM/FM and Aux have no sound at all... did the system check.. everything is ok.
any idea or advice to check?
i have a 2010 ISF, mark levinson system, CD/DVD is playing fine... just the AM/FM and Aux have no sound at all... did the system check.. everything is ok.
any idea or advice to check?
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
You've posted in the 3IS forum which is 2014-2022 IS250/300/350/200t.
Try searching here first, and if you don't find anything then start a thread (the link is the ISF forum): https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-f-2008-2014-200/
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 413
From: IL
Probably have an amp failure in my future, as I had to remove the trunk trim to run a power wire from the battery to add trailer lights, and saw a very rusty nut/bolt holding down the amp, so I figure it’s just a matter of time until corrosion gets my amp too. 
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
If it's the nut closest to the bumper, yeah, mine was pretty rusty too.
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
If you're getting power at +B and +B2, then the RAD NO. 1 and NO. 2 fuses under the hood are good.
The fuses should be battery voltage, so if the battery is 12.4V, then the fuses should be almost the same, maybe 12.2V or 12.3V, or even 12.4V.
The ACC terminal is fed power from the 7.5A ACC fuse in the passenger kick panel, behind the glove box area at the side of the car.
The 7.5 ACC fuse powers 6 circuits in total, so if it blew then at least 6 things in the car wouldn't be working, not just the Amp.
Nonetheless, the fuse needs to be checked to make sure it has Battery voltage when the vehicle is in Accessory mode for the Ignition, and that the fuse isn't blown.
If the 7.5A ACC fuse has power and is not blow, which I suspect it will be fine, then you need to confirm that power is leaving the fuse block on connector RJ pin 23...as seen below. The vehicle needs to be in Accessory mode when checking for power at RJ-23.
If the fuse is good, and RJ-23 has Battery voltage when in Accessory mode, and there is no power at the Amp on the ACC terminal, then the issue is the Orange wire between RJ-23 and the Amp (P30-12).
The Orange wire is one continuous wire from RJ-23 to P30-12 of the Amp, so it's basically almost as long as the car.
I will add another doc to the post above that has all the docs...the new doc "2006 IS Right Hand Junction Block" will show you where connector RJ is located.
Code 01-D5 confirms that a device is disconnected from the Audio system.
Since DSP-AMP shows NCON, this confirms the disconnected device is the Amp...hence why you have no sound.
Once you check the 7.5A ACC fuse and RJ-23, report back so we can see where to go next.
The fuses should be battery voltage, so if the battery is 12.4V, then the fuses should be almost the same, maybe 12.2V or 12.3V, or even 12.4V.
The ACC terminal is fed power from the 7.5A ACC fuse in the passenger kick panel, behind the glove box area at the side of the car.
The 7.5 ACC fuse powers 6 circuits in total, so if it blew then at least 6 things in the car wouldn't be working, not just the Amp.
Nonetheless, the fuse needs to be checked to make sure it has Battery voltage when the vehicle is in Accessory mode for the Ignition, and that the fuse isn't blown.
If the 7.5A ACC fuse has power and is not blow, which I suspect it will be fine, then you need to confirm that power is leaving the fuse block on connector RJ pin 23...as seen below. The vehicle needs to be in Accessory mode when checking for power at RJ-23.
If the fuse is good, and RJ-23 has Battery voltage when in Accessory mode, and there is no power at the Amp on the ACC terminal, then the issue is the Orange wire between RJ-23 and the Amp (P30-12).
The Orange wire is one continuous wire from RJ-23 to P30-12 of the Amp, so it's basically almost as long as the car.
I will add another doc to the post above that has all the docs...the new doc "2006 IS Right Hand Junction Block" will show you where connector RJ is located.
Code 01-D5 confirms that a device is disconnected from the Audio system.
Since DSP-AMP shows NCON, this confirms the disconnected device is the Amp...hence why you have no sound.
Once you check the 7.5A ACC fuse and RJ-23, report back so we can see where to go next.
Connector JP1 has the wires in it that allow the Radio to control the Amp...as well as send it the audio channel signals.
If the connector is ok, you can check the continuity of the wires from JP1 to the Amp connector P30.
If all that is good, then the issue is either the wiring from JP1 to the Radio, or the Radio itself.
