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Just bought a car and decided to upgrade a couple of the speakers in it. I've always taken my cars to a shop, but I figured given the whole shelter-in-place it was time to learn something new. I have a 2 channel amp running to a crossover, which leads to my left and right rear door speakers.
Problem #1:
Today, I finally finished running the wires through the car and tried connecting the system, and it worked...but only on one side. Woofer (left) and tweeter (left) played great, while the right woofer didn't seem to play, and the right tweeter had very, very light music (sounded crappy) coming out.
I tried flipping the RCA cables on the amp, and same thing, but flipped - right woofer and tweeter played great, left woofer didn't seem to play, and tweeter had very, very light sound.
In order to get the the sound, I tapped into the radio signal running into my factory (came with car) amplifier. I used a T-tap on both the L+,L- and R+, R- rear pairs, and the connections look fine... which leads me to think it might be the Line Output Converter I used. I went with a really ****ty one (I know...) and now I'm regretting it. I'm 90-95% sure I tapped into the correct wires... but this isn't a given since I didn't have the exact wiring diagram.
I remember watching some youtube videos, and see that one way to fix potential sound issues related to the LOC would be to mount the LOC's optional ground cable... gave it a go and no luck.
Question: Is there a way to see/test if my wire tapping is the issue vs. the crappy LOC? Should I just go but a new LOC?
Problem #2:
The amp turns on! ...but it doesn't turn off. I have a remote wire running through to my car's fuse box under the driver's seat. I bought an add-a-fuse to make it easier, and after looking at the box, I was happy to see a fuse diagram/picture on the cover (see below).
After seeing it, I decided to go for the 15A P/Outlet No.1, as I assumed it'd be something that would have no power when the car was off, and would be great to use for the amp.
For some reason, the amplifier will stay on using this set-up (with the car on and off). I tried removing the 7.5 fuse, and keeping only the 15 inserted on the add-a-fuse, and the amp wouldn't turn on at all - I needed to have both inserted to keep it on (can you tell I'm new to this).
Question: Any idea what other fuse I could use? I thought this would be a gimme...
Any help is much appreciated!
Last edited by cmadreezy; Apr 26, 2020 at 06:25 PM.
I’m actually not too good with electrical wiring lol. Sorry! @Sasnuke is all knowing. He might be able to haha.
you're not?! you put together that entire 4x4 android/carplay system. i couldn't do that. haha. but yeah, to your point, the 4x4 system is plug-and-play and even then i wouldn't be able to do that looking at the gigantic thread reading about how so many people become confused along the way.
you're not?! you put together that entire 4x4 android/carplay system. i couldn't do that. haha. but yeah, to your point, the 4x4 system is plug-and-play and even then i wouldn't be able to do that looking at the gigantic thread reading about how so many people become confused along the way.
Lol as you stated it’s plug and play. I didn’t have to mess with actual wiring or fuses haha. I’m good at taking apart stuff and putting it back together.
What is wrong with the factory speakers? I'll never understand car audio guys. Always spending gobs of money to get muddy bass and pingy treble while listening to their low bit-rate Bluetooth or MP3s...
Door Speaker - Wiring and Install
