Rust proofing...remove under panels or not?
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Ontario
Rust proofing...remove under panels or not?
I live in Ottawa. Going to be rustproofing my 2015 IS350...
my question is all those plastic panels under the car, should they be removed before rust proofing or are those areas protected? I’m getting prices of 99$ that uses “LS-3 Rust proofing” product but they won’t remove under panels, or 180$ For the “corrosion free” product and they remove the panels. They’re 2 different business’s.
my question is all those plastic panels under the car, should they be removed before rust proofing or are those areas protected? I’m getting prices of 99$ that uses “LS-3 Rust proofing” product but they won’t remove under panels, or 180$ For the “corrosion free” product and they remove the panels. They’re 2 different business’s.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
My personal recommendation for rust proofing would be Rust Check or Krown...two different companies but it's the same product.
Because they both use an oil base to carry the rust proofing chemical, it doesn't matter if the panels are off or not, the oil will creep the chemical into all the crevasses once a sufficient amount is applied.
And yes, some holes may need to be drilled into the body, but they are usually inconspicuous if done correctly...this is where the knowledge and skill of the staff come into play.
For an IS you should be somewhere around $110+tax.
If they is the first time rust proofing the vehicle the ones like Ziebart (basically a black undercoating tar-like material) should not be used.
Because they both use an oil base to carry the rust proofing chemical, it doesn't matter if the panels are off or not, the oil will creep the chemical into all the crevasses once a sufficient amount is applied.
And yes, some holes may need to be drilled into the body, but they are usually inconspicuous if done correctly...this is where the knowledge and skill of the staff come into play.
For an IS you should be somewhere around $110+tax.
If they is the first time rust proofing the vehicle the ones like Ziebart (basically a black undercoating tar-like material) should not be used.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 853
Likes: 175
From: Ontario
My personal recommendation for rust proofing would be Rust Check or Krown...two different companies but it's the same product.
Because they both use an oil base to carry the rust proofing chemical, it doesn't matter if the panels are off or not, the oil will creep the chemical into all the crevasses once a sufficient amount is applied.
And yes, some holes may need to be drilled into the body, but they are usually inconspicuous if done correctly...this is where the knowledge and skill of the staff come into play.
For an IS you should be somewhere around $110+tax.
If they is the first time rust proofing the vehicle the ones like Ziebart (basically a black undercoating tar-like material) should not be used.
Because they both use an oil base to carry the rust proofing chemical, it doesn't matter if the panels are off or not, the oil will creep the chemical into all the crevasses once a sufficient amount is applied.
And yes, some holes may need to be drilled into the body, but they are usually inconspicuous if done correctly...this is where the knowledge and skill of the staff come into play.
For an IS you should be somewhere around $110+tax.
If they is the first time rust proofing the vehicle the ones like Ziebart (basically a black undercoating tar-like material) should not be used.
I did the “corrosion free” treatment at an independent shop last year and they removed the panels but it cost me an extra 30-50$...I can’t stomach Krown drilling, i just can’t, but I’m aware they generally have a good reputation. I never heard of Rust Check but I’m researching it now.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
I've used the Rust Check. The chemical for Rust Check and Krown is supplied by Krown...they're the same company, just two different brands.
Like buying an FRS or a BRZ...same thing, just two different logos on the car.
If the people applying it are knowledgeable, they can usually spray everywhere they need to without, or minimal, holes...like 2-4 holes total.
You can also request that they not drill holes, and let them spray as much as they can.
Really the most important things is the underbody and wheel wells. The interior of the trunk can be done without holes...and same with the engine bay.
The front fenders are fairly straight forward with no holes...so it's really the center shell of the vehicle and the doors you're left with.
They likely have available just an underbody spray...they skip the doors and body, and do the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells, and underbody. Plus it's a few bucks less, and less work for them too.
Like buying an FRS or a BRZ...same thing, just two different logos on the car.
If the people applying it are knowledgeable, they can usually spray everywhere they need to without, or minimal, holes...like 2-4 holes total.
You can also request that they not drill holes, and let them spray as much as they can.
Really the most important things is the underbody and wheel wells. The interior of the trunk can be done without holes...and same with the engine bay.
The front fenders are fairly straight forward with no holes...so it's really the center shell of the vehicle and the doors you're left with.
They likely have available just an underbody spray...they skip the doors and body, and do the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells, and underbody. Plus it's a few bucks less, and less work for them too.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 853
Likes: 175
From: Ontario
I've used the Rust Check. The chemical for Rust Check and Krown is supplied by Krown...they're the same company, just two different brands.
Like buying an FRS or a BRZ...same thing, just two different logos on the car.
If the people applying it are knowledgeable, they can usually spray everywhere they need to without, or minimal, holes...like 2-4 holes total.
You can also request that they not drill holes, and let them spray as much as they can.
Really the most important things is the underbody and wheel wells. The interior of the trunk can be done without holes...and same with the engine bay.
The front fenders are fairly straight forward with no holes...so it's really the center shell of the vehicle and the doors you're left with.
They likely have available just an underbody spray...they skip the doors and body, and do the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells, and underbody. Plus it's a few bucks less, and less work for them too.
Like buying an FRS or a BRZ...same thing, just two different logos on the car.
If the people applying it are knowledgeable, they can usually spray everywhere they need to without, or minimal, holes...like 2-4 holes total.
You can also request that they not drill holes, and let them spray as much as they can.
Really the most important things is the underbody and wheel wells. The interior of the trunk can be done without holes...and same with the engine bay.
The front fenders are fairly straight forward with no holes...so it's really the center shell of the vehicle and the doors you're left with.
They likely have available just an underbody spray...they skip the doors and body, and do the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells, and underbody. Plus it's a few bucks less, and less work for them too.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,260
Likes: 1,752
From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
I can't recall, but the spray guns have long rod attachments as well as flexible hose attachments, so once there is a small opening, they can slide the rods or flexible hose in all the way, and then spray as they pull them out slowly.
That's how they are able to do front fenders...go from the front door opening all the way to the headlight, and then spray as you pull the rod out.
Even if they had to loosen a corner of the panel, they wouldn't need to take the entire thing off.
That's how they are able to do front fenders...go from the front door opening all the way to the headlight, and then spray as you pull the rod out.
Even if they had to loosen a corner of the panel, they wouldn't need to take the entire thing off.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 853
Likes: 175
From: Ontario
I can't recall, but the spray guns have long rod attachments as well as flexible hose attachments, so once there is a small opening, they can slide the rods or flexible hose in all the way, and then spray as they pull them out slowly.
That's how they are able to do front fenders...go from the front door opening all the way to the headlight, and then spray as you pull the rod out.
Even if they had to loosen a corner of the panel, they wouldn't need to take the entire thing off.
That's how they are able to do front fenders...go from the front door opening all the way to the headlight, and then spray as you pull the rod out.
Even if they had to loosen a corner of the panel, they wouldn't need to take the entire thing off.
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