250 vs 200T vs 350 Reliability
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-10-18)
10-12-18, 08:13 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Avoid 14. Not bad, but not great. 200t is still too new to know. If you want slam dunk reliability, go for 350. The 250 should be fine too. I believe both use port and fuel injection so should help with carbon buildup. But honestly you can't go wrong with any of the three.
If she drives gentle, she should be able to get great fuel mileage (the best) out of the 200t.
the 200t is based off an older toyota engine just modified for turbo use. so the bones itself are proven. I see no reason so far that the 200t should prove less reliable than the others with the exception of the turbo. but the turbo is designed and built in house so it should be pretty stout.
Honestly go with either of the three. she should test drive them to see which character she prefers. But no 2014.. those tend to have problems.
If she drives gentle, she should be able to get great fuel mileage (the best) out of the 200t.
the 200t is based off an older toyota engine just modified for turbo use. so the bones itself are proven. I see no reason so far that the 200t should prove less reliable than the others with the exception of the turbo. but the turbo is designed and built in house so it should be pretty stout.
Honestly go with either of the three. she should test drive them to see which character she prefers. But no 2014.. those tend to have problems.
I find this statement a bit generalized, and quiet honestly - borderline ignorant.
If I saw a 2014 in immaculate condition, and still have Lexus warranty; due to low mileage. Why would you sway away?
When individuals may not want to spend 30k or more, for a practically new car (under 20k) why not get a 2014?
Lets chance the context a bit... a person that never owned a Lexus, and with limited funds: He or she would like to try being a 1st time Lexus owner. If you can get one for less than 30k with low mileage. Its almost a no brainier.
This of course, I am not saying - don't just bluntely go buy one 'just because". However, do your basic test drive, check out the conditions, and history, etc...
Basically, unless you have many supporting statements on why "not to get a 20140" OR where you see Lexus removes the 2014 off the lots - then why prevent a potential buyer from a specific year - especially with no details/explanation as to why? I would agree in "general" its not wise to consider being an early adopter of anything, especially pricier purchases. However, to tell someone to "no 2014" is a very generalized statement.
I have a 2014 F sport, and the only issue I had with it - was getting an alignment, tire change/balance/rotation and oil/tranny fluid change. In addition, I have 60ish K on it currently and purchased it for $28k (including TTL) @ a 22k mileage. Also, according to Lexus, the manufacture warranty is very good. I personally encountered this, because I did have to bring the car into the dealership for a replacement on a part and it was completely free.
In a nutshell, please don't make statements that is so general w/o any thought put into it.
Thank you
Now to respond to the original poster's question.
Honestly, go test drive all the ones you mentioned: 200T, 250, 350 and, YES. Go try whatever you can afford; within the years you mentioned *2014+".
I am sure you can make your own judgment based on your budget and feeling. However, researching what you like out of it; such as... performance, package/trim and features, etc... is all your self-benefit towards your purchase.
Things to check if pre-owned: Brakes, the cleanness of the oil (to get an idea of its maintenance), tire thread. Also, how it accelerate/throttle responses and your basic interior features: Radio, Blinkers, Signals, lights.
When you test drive, see if it tends to drive towards a certain direction or not... for instance. If it seems to pull to the right... you may want to question about the suspension, any prior accidents or the conditions of the: tires/rims.
Anyways, GL! on your venture. the 3rd gen are beautiful machines and backed by a great manufacture "known for reliability". Its a Toyota! but more upscale
You should feel good and proud to even get a Lexus
Last edited by Emotionr; 10-12-18 at 08:22 AM.
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-13-18)
10-12-18, 08:26 AM
#18
Driver School Candidate
@ Original poster. Don't let the whole idea of being 2014 prevent you getting a great deal if you come across one
However, do consider what you end up with - by what you can afford, your test drive and your personal preferences on the styling. Yes, Lexus did give the IS cosmetic changes here and there over the later/newer years.
Good luck on your purchase!
Toyota/Lexus make great vehicles and tends to be very reliable/functional overall!
10-12-18, 08:26 AM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
I find this statement a bit generalized, and quiet honestly - borderline ignorant.
If I saw a 2014 in immaculate condition, and still have Lexus warranty; due to low mileage. Why would you sway away?
When individuals may not want to spend 30k or more, for a practically new car (under 20k) why not get a 2014?
Lets chance the context a bit... a person that never owned a Lexus, and with limited funds: He or she would like to try being a 1st time Lexus owner. If you can get one for less than 30k with low mileage. Its almost a no brainier.
This of course, I am not saying - don't just bluntely go buy one 'just because". However, do your basic test drive, check out the conditions, and history, etc...
Basically, unless you have many supporting statements on why "not to get a 20140" OR where you see Lexus removes the 2014 off the lots - then why prevent a potential buyer from a specific year - especially with no details/explanation as to why? I would agree in "general" its not wise to consider being an early adopter of anything, especially pricier purchases. However, to tell someone to "no 2014" is a very generalized statement.
I have a 2014 F sport, and the only issue I had with it - was getting an alignment, tire change/balance/rotation and oil/tranny fluid change. In addition, I have 60ish K on it currently and purchased it for $28k (including TTL) @ a 22k mileage. Also, according to Lexus, the manufacture warranty is very good. I personally encountered this, because I did have to bring the car into the dealership for a replacement on a part and it was completely free.
In a nutshell, please don't make statements that is so general w/o any thought put into it.
Thank you
If I saw a 2014 in immaculate condition, and still have Lexus warranty; due to low mileage. Why would you sway away?
When individuals may not want to spend 30k or more, for a practically new car (under 20k) why not get a 2014?
Lets chance the context a bit... a person that never owned a Lexus, and with limited funds: He or she would like to try being a 1st time Lexus owner. If you can get one for less than 30k with low mileage. Its almost a no brainier.
This of course, I am not saying - don't just bluntely go buy one 'just because". However, do your basic test drive, check out the conditions, and history, etc...
Basically, unless you have many supporting statements on why "not to get a 20140" OR where you see Lexus removes the 2014 off the lots - then why prevent a potential buyer from a specific year - especially with no details/explanation as to why? I would agree in "general" its not wise to consider being an early adopter of anything, especially pricier purchases. However, to tell someone to "no 2014" is a very generalized statement.
I have a 2014 F sport, and the only issue I had with it - was getting an alignment, tire change/balance/rotation and oil/tranny fluid change. In addition, I have 60ish K on it currently and purchased it for $28k (including TTL) @ a 22k mileage. Also, according to Lexus, the manufacture warranty is very good. I personally encountered this, because I did have to bring the car into the dealership for a replacement on a part and it was completely free.
In a nutshell, please don't make statements that is so general w/o any thought put into it.
Thank you
Aside from the general rule of avoiding the first MY of any car, the 2014 ISs seem to suffer from electronic and A/C gremlins more so than later years. 2014 models also have the old subframe with a narrower path mount (thanks to me for digging this up), and smaller associated differential. Bigger brakes were also standard across all models in later years. Also 2014s got dull-finish interior accents while later models got the textured refined finish. Oh and the LED DRLs and headlights seem to be a sore spot on 2014s.
All these parts add up to mega bucks as the car is still relatively new. So from the standpoint of used car shopping, a 2015 won't cost much more than a 2014 model and as such, there's no reason not to avoid 14s.
There's also a human element which goes back to the first point that for a first model year, line workers are still getting used to production, sorting out production issues, assembly, processes, etc. There's a lot behind the scenes that gets ironed out as the platform matures. Check out NHTSA's TSBs for just about any car.
If it's a lease, sure. Go for it. But buying a used car you intend to keep a long time? Avoid first model year.
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-13-18)
10-12-18, 03:16 PM
#20
Before i plonked down my money on the IS200t, I read up abit on Lexus's way of going turbo and it seems that out of all the carmakers, lexus is the only one which makes their own petrol-powered turbochargers in-house, together with their engine. Both were built from the ground up, so that really went some ways to allay my fears regarding reliability. Other carmakers make their own engine, but buy their turbos from secondary market to bolt on to their engine. That is not to say there isn't problems, I have read about people having problems with the vacuum regulator.
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-13-18)
10-12-18, 04:42 PM
#21
Pole Position
Before i plonked down my money on the IS200t, I read up abit on Lexus's way of going turbo and it seems that out of all the carmakers, lexus is the only one which makes their own petrol-powered turbochargers in-house, together with their engine. Both were built from the ground up, so that really went some ways to allay my fears regarding reliability. Other carmakers make their own engine, but buy their turbos from secondary market to bolt on to their engine. That is not to say there isn't problems, I have read about people having problems with the vacuum regulator.
The following users liked this post:
zhifan1 (10-18-18)
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-13-18)
10-13-18, 04:44 PM
#23
Rookie
Thread Starter
Check out this car: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ckType=listing
It's a manufacturer buyback car. Buyback, according to the salesman was due to the rotors.
Link to the carfax: https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Dis...BA1D24G5011179
So, I heard buying a buyback cars is a good idea, especially if you're going to drive it into the ground, as long as you do a thorough test drive, preferably over-night, and take it to a mechanic/dealer for a thorough check-up.
I'm thinking of stopping by the dealer on monday.
Two odd things though.
1) On 11/28/15, Door sill plate and trim were replaced. This is even before the sale. Aside from that, wing/spoiler was installed as well but I'm guessing this is strictly for the looks. Are door sill plate and trim for looks as well? I'm wondering because they were replaced and not just installed like the wing/spoiler was.
2) There is a damage report on 6/30/16 to the right rear of the vehicle. This is a rear-end accident, right? If it is, why did the salesman say this car has no accidents.
Overall, the car looks great. It looks clean in picture, but yes I won't really know until I go see it with my own eyes. The service records look great as well and all were done at the Lexus dealer. If I do an over-night test drive and also get the car checked by a mechanic and get an okay, should I go for this? Of course, I'll haggle the price closer to 20k since it is a buyback and has an accident record. Are there any other red flags that I might have missed?
It's a manufacturer buyback car. Buyback, according to the salesman was due to the rotors.
Tristan,
Here is a copy of the Carfax report. Great maintenance record. Only 1 owner, no accidents reported. This vehicle also has a buyback history. A lot of our cars come from the state of CA, a more consumer friendly state. The owners take advantage of their laws and can easily return cars. The reason for the buyback on this vehicle was the "rotors". Customer had a complaint about a shake when pressing brakes. The car was sent to Lexus of North America and they replaced the rotors, regular maintenance.
Here at Atlanta Best Used Cars we specialize in Manufacturer Buyback vehicles. A manufacturer buyback is simply a "refurbished" vehicle. It is a vehicle the manufacturer has repurchased from the consumer due to a complaint. Usually this is a simple repair covered under a recall or the original warranty. If a necessary part is on backorder, it can result in the vehicle being out of service for a long period and the manufacturer repurchases it. Some customers return a vehicle to the manufacturer because they can receive more money than they could by trading it in. Regardless of the reason, the manufacturer must inspect, and make any necessary complaint related repairs to each vehicle. The original US warranty remains and goes with the vehicle to the next owner. Also, the manufacturer provides an additional one year limited warranty on any related issues. Many of these vehicles originate in California due to that state’s consumer friendly buyback lemon laws, which unlike most states cover both new and used vehicle purchases.
Here is a copy of the Carfax report. Great maintenance record. Only 1 owner, no accidents reported. This vehicle also has a buyback history. A lot of our cars come from the state of CA, a more consumer friendly state. The owners take advantage of their laws and can easily return cars. The reason for the buyback on this vehicle was the "rotors". Customer had a complaint about a shake when pressing brakes. The car was sent to Lexus of North America and they replaced the rotors, regular maintenance.
Here at Atlanta Best Used Cars we specialize in Manufacturer Buyback vehicles. A manufacturer buyback is simply a "refurbished" vehicle. It is a vehicle the manufacturer has repurchased from the consumer due to a complaint. Usually this is a simple repair covered under a recall or the original warranty. If a necessary part is on backorder, it can result in the vehicle being out of service for a long period and the manufacturer repurchases it. Some customers return a vehicle to the manufacturer because they can receive more money than they could by trading it in. Regardless of the reason, the manufacturer must inspect, and make any necessary complaint related repairs to each vehicle. The original US warranty remains and goes with the vehicle to the next owner. Also, the manufacturer provides an additional one year limited warranty on any related issues. Many of these vehicles originate in California due to that state’s consumer friendly buyback lemon laws, which unlike most states cover both new and used vehicle purchases.
So, I heard buying a buyback cars is a good idea, especially if you're going to drive it into the ground, as long as you do a thorough test drive, preferably over-night, and take it to a mechanic/dealer for a thorough check-up.
I'm thinking of stopping by the dealer on monday.
Two odd things though.
1) On 11/28/15, Door sill plate and trim were replaced. This is even before the sale. Aside from that, wing/spoiler was installed as well but I'm guessing this is strictly for the looks. Are door sill plate and trim for looks as well? I'm wondering because they were replaced and not just installed like the wing/spoiler was.
2) There is a damage report on 6/30/16 to the right rear of the vehicle. This is a rear-end accident, right? If it is, why did the salesman say this car has no accidents.
Overall, the car looks great. It looks clean in picture, but yes I won't really know until I go see it with my own eyes. The service records look great as well and all were done at the Lexus dealer. If I do an over-night test drive and also get the car checked by a mechanic and get an okay, should I go for this? Of course, I'll haggle the price closer to 20k since it is a buyback and has an accident record. Are there any other red flags that I might have missed?
10-13-18, 05:57 PM
#24
Check out this car: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=490212313&zip=30097&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3Fzip%3D30097%26startYear%3D2015%26maxMileage%3D45000%26sortBy%3Drelevance%26incremental%3Dall%26firstRecord%3D0%26endYear%3D2016%26modelCodeList%3DLEXIS200T%26makeCodeList%3DLEXUS%26searchRadius%3D50&startYear=2015&numRecords=25&firstRecord=0&endYear=2016&modelCodeList=LEXIS200T&makeCodeList=LEXUS&searchRadius=50&makeCode1=LEXUS&modelCode1=LEXIS200T&digitalRetail=true&clickType=listing
It's a manufacturer buyback car. Buyback, according to the salesman was due to the rotors.
Link to the carfax: https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Display_Dealer_Report.cfm?partner=ARH_0&UID=C440471&vin=JTHBA1D24G5011179
So, I heard buying a buyback cars is a good idea, especially if you're going to drive it into the ground, as long as you do a thorough test drive, preferably over-night, and take it to a mechanic/dealer for a thorough check-up.
I'm thinking of stopping by the dealer on monday.
Two odd things though.
1) On 11/28/15, Door sill plate and trim were replaced. This is even before the sale. Aside from that, wing/spoiler was installed as well but I'm guessing this is strictly for the looks. Are door sill plate and trim for looks as well? I'm wondering because they were replaced and not just installed like the wing/spoiler was.
2) There is a damage report on 6/30/16 to the right rear of the vehicle. This is a rear-end accident, right? If it is, why did the salesman say this car has no accidents.
Overall, the car looks great. It looks clean in picture, but yes I won't really know until I go see it with my own eyes. The service records look great as well and all were done at the Lexus dealer. If I do an over-night test drive and also get the car checked by a mechanic and get an okay, should I go for this? Of course, I'll haggle the price closer to 20k since it is a buyback and has an accident record. Are there any other red flags that I might have missed?
It's a manufacturer buyback car. Buyback, according to the salesman was due to the rotors.
Link to the carfax: https://www.carfaxonline.com/cfm/Display_Dealer_Report.cfm?partner=ARH_0&UID=C440471&vin=JTHBA1D24G5011179
So, I heard buying a buyback cars is a good idea, especially if you're going to drive it into the ground, as long as you do a thorough test drive, preferably over-night, and take it to a mechanic/dealer for a thorough check-up.
I'm thinking of stopping by the dealer on monday.
Two odd things though.
1) On 11/28/15, Door sill plate and trim were replaced. This is even before the sale. Aside from that, wing/spoiler was installed as well but I'm guessing this is strictly for the looks. Are door sill plate and trim for looks as well? I'm wondering because they were replaced and not just installed like the wing/spoiler was.
2) There is a damage report on 6/30/16 to the right rear of the vehicle. This is a rear-end accident, right? If it is, why did the salesman say this car has no accidents.
Overall, the car looks great. It looks clean in picture, but yes I won't really know until I go see it with my own eyes. The service records look great as well and all were done at the Lexus dealer. If I do an over-night test drive and also get the car checked by a mechanic and get an okay, should I go for this? Of course, I'll haggle the price closer to 20k since it is a buyback and has an accident record. Are there any other red flags that I might have missed?
2)Might be some self-damage?? Need to clarify with salesperson.
Check the heated and ventilated seat functions whether all blowers are working, check for really unreasonable leather wear, check all glass to see whether all are still original. If you bring along a mechanic, i guess all mechanical aspects should be well covered by him. Car looks great from the pics, btw.
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-14-18)
10-13-18, 09:24 PM
#25
Your sister did not notice:
That the 2.5 idles very smoothly and quietly, and accelerates very smoothly and quietly? At wide throttle, it is smooth and quiet, but does not have the bottom end punch of the 2.0T, nor the top end punch of the 3.5.
That the 3.5 has both a loud and rough idle, but it accelerates smoothly and quietly, yet powerfully. At wide throttle, it is powerful at the upper half of the rpm band, but is louder and harsher than the 2.5.
That the 2.0T idles very smoothly and quietly, but at small throttle openings day to day around town - it accelerates with a drone, and is noticeably lacking in torque due to the use of the unusual Atkinson cycle to conserve fuel; at wide throttle openings, it is quite powerful from idle, and revs reasonably smoothly, though never as smooth as a V6.
I still have my IS250 from 12 years ago for my staff to drive.
It has done well over 100,000 miles and the 2.5 V6 is fine.
Never had any repairs done.
Only basic servicing like oil, filters, spark plugs, tires and brake pads etc.
I have last year's IS200t too.
If I could relive 2017 again, I would have kept my 2014 IS250 V6, or purchased the 2017 IS350 V6 over our 2017 IS200t 2.0T - just for the smoothness and quietness, and the smooth bottom end torque around town.
Sure gasoline is a little more expensive now, but gasoline is still quiet cheap compared to other parts of the world like Europe etc.
If you ask your sister to test drive the three models again, and point out the bottom end torque, and the NVH - I am sure she will notice it.
Btw, the 2014 IS250 F Sport rides very smoothly and quietly on Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 050's.
However, the 2017 IS200t/350 F Sport has upgraded springs/dampers etc - it has a noticeably knobbier and less smooth ride on the same Dunlop Sport Maxx 050's.
Hence for 2017, we went with the non-F Sport model with 17" rims.
.
That the 2.5 idles very smoothly and quietly, and accelerates very smoothly and quietly? At wide throttle, it is smooth and quiet, but does not have the bottom end punch of the 2.0T, nor the top end punch of the 3.5.
That the 3.5 has both a loud and rough idle, but it accelerates smoothly and quietly, yet powerfully. At wide throttle, it is powerful at the upper half of the rpm band, but is louder and harsher than the 2.5.
That the 2.0T idles very smoothly and quietly, but at small throttle openings day to day around town - it accelerates with a drone, and is noticeably lacking in torque due to the use of the unusual Atkinson cycle to conserve fuel; at wide throttle openings, it is quite powerful from idle, and revs reasonably smoothly, though never as smooth as a V6.
I still have my IS250 from 12 years ago for my staff to drive.
It has done well over 100,000 miles and the 2.5 V6 is fine.
Never had any repairs done.
Only basic servicing like oil, filters, spark plugs, tires and brake pads etc.
I have last year's IS200t too.
If I could relive 2017 again, I would have kept my 2014 IS250 V6, or purchased the 2017 IS350 V6 over our 2017 IS200t 2.0T - just for the smoothness and quietness, and the smooth bottom end torque around town.
Sure gasoline is a little more expensive now, but gasoline is still quiet cheap compared to other parts of the world like Europe etc.
If you ask your sister to test drive the three models again, and point out the bottom end torque, and the NVH - I am sure she will notice it.
Btw, the 2014 IS250 F Sport rides very smoothly and quietly on Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 050's.
However, the 2017 IS200t/350 F Sport has upgraded springs/dampers etc - it has a noticeably knobbier and less smooth ride on the same Dunlop Sport Maxx 050's.
Hence for 2017, we went with the non-F Sport model with 17" rims.
.
Last edited by peteharvey; 10-13-18 at 09:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
trstnhn (10-14-18)
10-16-18, 06:58 PM
#26
I'd say if you want to get the best value out of the car when deciding on which model/trim to choose, get the 350 even though it's pricier. Just my opinion, but I feel paying a little more gives you that additional power and reliability for your sister... especially if she is planning to keep it long term. The additional cost is worth it for what you get. And yes, if you can stay away from it, I suggest not getting a used 2014 model as from numerous threads here, there have been several issues with that year.
10-16-18, 07:00 PM
#27
on a used car that old, you're not going to see much of a price jump from 14 to 15 though, if any. no reason to get a 14 in that case. besides, the 15 model got revised interior bits, new subframe, new differential, and other odds and ends. not to mention matured/established production line process.
10-16-18, 09:36 PM
#28
drives cars
I will say, in sub-freezing temperatures, the 3.5 is a bit noisy and grainy while it is still warming up. Other than in the cold, it seems smooth all the time. And yeah the idle will be more noticeable than your typical vehicle due to the intake sound generator, but describing it as "rough" makes it seem unrefined, which simply isn't a fair assessment.
10-24-18, 01:20 PM
#29
I disagree. The idle of the 3.5 is not rough at all unless there is something wrong with the specific car.
I will say, in sub-freezing temperatures, the 3.5 is a bit noisy and grainy while it is still warming up. Other than in the cold, it seems smooth all the time. And yeah the idle will be more noticeable than your typical vehicle due to the intake sound generator, but describing it as "rough" makes it seem unrefined, which simply isn't a fair assessment.
I will say, in sub-freezing temperatures, the 3.5 is a bit noisy and grainy while it is still warming up. Other than in the cold, it seems smooth all the time. And yeah the idle will be more noticeable than your typical vehicle due to the intake sound generator, but describing it as "rough" makes it seem unrefined, which simply isn't a fair assessment.
At full throttle, the 2.5 is smoothest spinning, then the 3.0, followed by the 3.5 - however, do keep in mind that I've been in Nissan Maxima 3.7's etc, which are even coarser & louder than Lexus 3.5's.
The heavier the reciprocating mass, the greater the primary and secondary inertial forces that cause rocking moments and vibration.
The idle in my staff member's 2015 Camry 3.5 V6 is actually smoother than my GS350 - it might have to do with the transverse config etc.
10-29-18, 04:29 PM
#30
I thought they took care of the carbon build up problems in the 2nd gen IS so that wouldn't be an issue in the 3rd gen IS (2014+)..