Quick question! Center shock nut stripped!
09-12-17, 08:26 PM
#16
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Might I suggest putting a paint mark (or any mark) on the top of the top nut in line with the slot you cut in the strut.
And then periodically popping the hood to check that the paint mark is still lined up with the slot.
If the paint mark starts to move out of alignment, then you know the nut is coming loose right away.
And then periodically popping the hood to check that the paint mark is still lined up with the slot.
If the paint mark starts to move out of alignment, then you know the nut is coming loose right away.
09-13-17, 10:03 AM
#17
Lexus Test Driver
So i finally got it fixed without taking the strut out of the car and saving the strut!
i attached all the pictures and what happened.
e46ct was right, the shaft strut was spinning so i couldn't get the lock nut out. made a slit so i could try and fit a flathead and use a wrench, but that didn't work.
instead, i shaved off the sides of the nut and got it out. the lock nut was completely destroyed. no more threads left on it. re threaded the shaft strut 12x1.25 with a impact, used washers, lock washer, double-nutted and used lock tite so this will for sure never back out. did all this without taking the strut out of the car!
drove the car, and its smooth as butter, no more clunking or popping.
i attached all the pictures and what happened.
e46ct was right, the shaft strut was spinning so i couldn't get the lock nut out. made a slit so i could try and fit a flathead and use a wrench, but that didn't work.
instead, i shaved off the sides of the nut and got it out. the lock nut was completely destroyed. no more threads left on it. re threaded the shaft strut 12x1.25 with a impact, used washers, lock washer, double-nutted and used lock tite so this will for sure never back out. did all this without taking the strut out of the car!
drove the car, and its smooth as butter, no more clunking or popping.
For anyone doing this, carefully start the nut by hand and slowly cinch it down. As soon as enough shaft protrudes from the top, get a 10mm wrench on that sucker asap and use the offset wrench i linked to turn the nut. Don't use impacts or count on a ratchet alone. You will strip the mount.
09-13-17, 10:07 AM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
And BTW, blue loctite would've been the better application here. And only one nut is necessary. there isn't a lot of load on the top nut. It's just meant to prevent the strut from wobbling around. nothing more. But at least it's fixed. Just feel sorry for the next guy who has to remove it.
09-13-17, 10:31 AM
#19
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Excellent! Sorry if I came off as a bit stern but I already knew what the problem was instantly and people seemed to be automatically dismissing my advice. These struts should really have a way to get an allen key at the tops like other struts do. But I don't think Lexus really imagined modders messing with them. They have precisely calibrated 7 figure robotic wrenches that do these tasks and they'll use the thinnest materials possible to keep costs down. So as such, they easily strip if you're not careful (the mounts).
For anyone doing this, carefully start the nut by hand and slowly cinch it down. As soon as enough shaft protrudes from the top, get a 10mm wrench on that sucker asap and use the offset wrench i linked to turn the nut. Don't use impacts or count on a ratchet alone. You will strip the mount.
For anyone doing this, carefully start the nut by hand and slowly cinch it down. As soon as enough shaft protrudes from the top, get a 10mm wrench on that sucker asap and use the offset wrench i linked to turn the nut. Don't use impacts or count on a ratchet alone. You will strip the mount.
It would have been better to run the dye all the way down because there is still 2 or 3 threads that were damaged that the dye couldn't get to because it bottomed out on the mount.
And in case you missed it the first two times, the strut rod doesn't need an Allen key or anything else to hold onto it because the mount is keyed to the strut rod...that's how you hold it.
If you screw up the hole in the mount, then of course it's not going to hold the rod any longer, then you gotta find another way to hold the rod. The metal is soft where the key is in the mount, that's why it can be easy damaged.
And that nut...I always put them on with an impact gun...because 1. I make sure the rod is secured in the key of the mount, and 2. I hold the mount while I'm doing it so this very situation doesn't happen.
And as easily as your suggestions are dismissed, you dismiss others suggestions...perhaps you should take a look in the mirror...friend!
09-13-17, 11:50 AM
#20
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Excellent! Sorry if I came off as a bit stern but I already knew what the problem was instantly and people seemed to be automatically dismissing my advice. These struts should really have a way to get an allen key at the tops like other struts do. But I don't think Lexus really imagined modders messing with them. They have precisely calibrated 7 figure robotic wrenches that do these tasks and they'll use the thinnest materials possible to keep costs down. So as such, they easily strip if you're not careful (the mounts).
For anyone doing this, carefully start the nut by hand and slowly cinch it down. As soon as enough shaft protrudes from the top, get a 10mm wrench on that sucker asap and use the offset wrench i linked to turn the nut. Don't use impacts or count on a ratchet alone. You will strip the mount.
For anyone doing this, carefully start the nut by hand and slowly cinch it down. As soon as enough shaft protrudes from the top, get a 10mm wrench on that sucker asap and use the offset wrench i linked to turn the nut. Don't use impacts or count on a ratchet alone. You will strip the mount.
And BTW, blue loctite would've been the better application here. And only one nut is necessary. there isn't a lot of load on the top nut. It's just meant to prevent the strut from wobbling around. nothing more. But at least it's fixed. Just feel sorry for the next guy who has to remove it.
i got my passenger side on just fine, i think what happen was, when i was assembling the strut and top hat together i didn't tighten the nut down enough when there was no load when the spring was compressed, and i started to ratchet it from there when there was load on it.
we double nut it just in case, i know the center shock nut only takes 20 ft lbs anyways.
anyways, im glad it was resolved.
not too worried about whoever gets it next, will be keeping the car for a long time, and by the time the shock blows, ill replace it with air or coilovers
09-13-17, 11:53 AM
#21
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Perhaps you should read his solution again...he used a combination of what you suggested, to hold the strut rod, and what brendanf suggested to run a dye over the threads.
It would have been better to run the dye all the way down because there is still 2 or 3 threads that were damaged that the dye couldn't get to because it bottomed out on the mount.
And in case you missed it the first two times, the strut rod doesn't need an Allen key or anything else to hold onto it because the mount is keyed to the strut rod...that's how you hold it.
If you screw up the hole in the mount, then of course it's not going to hold the rod any longer, then you gotta find another way to hold the rod. The metal is soft where the key is in the mount, that's why it can be easy damaged.
And that nut...I always put them on with an impact gun...because 1. I make sure the rod is secured in the key of the mount, and 2. I hold the mount while I'm doing it so this very situation doesn't happen.
And as easily as your suggestions are dismissed, you dismiss others suggestions...perhaps you should take a look in the mirror...friend!
It would have been better to run the dye all the way down because there is still 2 or 3 threads that were damaged that the dye couldn't get to because it bottomed out on the mount.
And in case you missed it the first two times, the strut rod doesn't need an Allen key or anything else to hold onto it because the mount is keyed to the strut rod...that's how you hold it.
If you screw up the hole in the mount, then of course it's not going to hold the rod any longer, then you gotta find another way to hold the rod. The metal is soft where the key is in the mount, that's why it can be easy damaged.
And that nut...I always put them on with an impact gun...because 1. I make sure the rod is secured in the key of the mount, and 2. I hold the mount while I'm doing it so this very situation doesn't happen.
And as easily as your suggestions are dismissed, you dismiss others suggestions...perhaps you should take a look in the mirror...friend!
09-13-17, 12:00 PM
#22
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Really hope everything holds together. The washers and double nuts make me super nervous. Chances are you probably will be fine...but it just takes that one off chance that the nuts start to come loose.
Some manufacturers actually use the double nut as the method to hold the assembly together, but then there is way more thread sticking out the top of the second nut.
That's why I suggested the paint marks, so you can see if anything starts to come loose. Like I said, you'll probably be ok...it's just 'probably' makes me nervous.
Some manufacturers actually use the double nut as the method to hold the assembly together, but then there is way more thread sticking out the top of the second nut.
That's why I suggested the paint marks, so you can see if anything starts to come loose. Like I said, you'll probably be ok...it's just 'probably' makes me nervous.
09-13-17, 12:51 PM
#23
A small cut off disc to the nut does wonders. Do two sides of the nut and split it (In car with weight of car applied), then chase threads and install new nut.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
09-13-17, 12:53 PM
#24
Lexus Test Driver
A small cut off disc to the nut does wonders. Do two sides of the nut and split it (In car with weight of car applied), then chase threads and install new nut.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
OP did it right.
09-13-17, 01:06 PM
#25
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A small cut off disc to the nut does wonders. Do two sides of the nut and split it (In car with weight of car applied), then chase threads and install new nut.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
For cartridges/shocks with no landing you can grind flats on them or for those with minimal threads clamp the shaft in the spring area with hardwood and vice grips.
Do not heat the shaft too point of bluing or tempering will be reduced.
09-13-17, 01:08 PM
#26
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Really hope everything holds together. The washers and double nuts make me super nervous. Chances are you probably will be fine...but it just takes that one off chance that the nuts start to come loose.
Some manufacturers actually use the double nut as the method to hold the assembly together, but then there is way more thread sticking out the top of the second nut.
That's why I suggested the paint marks, so you can see if anything starts to come loose. Like I said, you'll probably be ok...it's just 'probably' makes me nervous.
Some manufacturers actually use the double nut as the method to hold the assembly together, but then there is way more thread sticking out the top of the second nut.
That's why I suggested the paint marks, so you can see if anything starts to come loose. Like I said, you'll probably be ok...it's just 'probably' makes me nervous.
09-15-17, 07:49 AM
#27
Lexus Test Driver
That'll work too. I just drilled straight down into the nut until it cracked. then split it open with a screwdriver and spun it off. once the tension was relieved, came off like butter. My shock was all chewed up at that point though and I am very picky so I just bought a whole new shock. A shame to throw an otherwise good shock in the trash.
09-15-17, 07:53 AM
#28
Lexus Test Driver
Again you did what you did, just trying to help others in the future. No need to rig anything up. Extremely easy task for the nut to do. nothings backing off anything or getting loose.
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