Lexus 3IS IS200t IS350 F-Sport Front Brake Pad DIY - $60 and 30 minutes or less!
08-30-17, 09:33 AM
#31
I think, we have different issues, some of us went with aftermarket VS OEM and we are getting a snap/clap type of noise. Since my OEM had 2 shims behind each pad(Akebono 1 per pad), there is some space between the caliper pods and rotor. I'm going in later today and add some shims since I kept the old pads/hardware. I probably won't do a clean up either. Hehe.
I hope this helps. The noise happens every, single, day in the initial drive to reverse/reverse to drive.
I hope this helps. The noise happens every, single, day in the initial drive to reverse/reverse to drive.
08-30-17, 10:10 AM
#32
I think, we have different issues, some of us went with aftermarket VS OEM and we are getting a snap/clap type of noise. Since my OEM had 2 shims behind each pad(Akebono 1 per pad), there is some space between the caliper pods and rotor. I'm going in later today and add some shims since I kept the old pads/hardware. I probably won't do a clean up either. Hehe.
I hope this helps. The noise happens every, single, day in the initial drive to reverse/reverse to drive.
I hope this helps. The noise happens every, single, day in the initial drive to reverse/reverse to drive.
08-30-17, 11:31 AM
#33
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The shims won't have any effect on this...and the good news is your pads aren't seized in the bracket, or caliper, which is good.
Adding some brake lube (Copper lube or the like) to the contact ends of the brake pad will eliminate or reduce this. Honestly it's nothing to be concerned about...although I do agree the noise sounds abnormal when you here it and can make you believe there is a real issue with the brakes.
On the topic of shims...use whatever shims come with the pads. If aftermarket pads come with one or two shims, use only that, do not add more shims, it's not really a fix for anything.
If OEM pads, which the shims are sold separately, come with 2 shims per pad, then only install that.
Make sure the shims are in good condition...the stainless ones will last, like what seems like, forever. The black ones do tend to rust and flake apart over time...in which case replace ALL the shims at once, since that is how they are sold.
In some climates (not Canada), I can see that black shim also lasting forever, or at least a very very long time. Winter and road salt do a number on the cars here...so everything is getting replaced at some point.
Additionally, in my environment, there is zero chance that worn out pad replacement will not require the brakes to be serviced/cleaned, and the rotors machined/resurfaced.
So to expect the same life out of a replacement set of pads, where the brakes were not serviced and the rotors machined, is completely unrealistic.
I've done it both ways, proper pad replacement procedures (service and machine), and just throwing a set of pads in, and I can account for a guaranteed 10% less life expectancy out of the new set of pads.
I tried it on different vehicle types (SUV, Minivans, cars) and front & rear disc brakes, and there was very little variance in the results.
For those wishing to expand their own understanding about brakes, brake service, and brake noise, here is an article that is full of great information. http://www.ucx.com/documents/brakenoise.pdf
The article is older, but the reality is that brakes haven't changed much in the last few decades, and the information is still applicable to today's vehicles.
It's obvious that there are different views on brakes, brake service, and machining rotors, and everyone should proceed as they think best.
Educating yourself is the best tool you can have when tackling anything.
08-30-17, 03:07 PM
#34
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
If you are using aftermarket pads, that slap noise could just be a tolerance difference (size difference) between aftermarket pad and stock caliper. Maybe the aftermarket pad bracket has a slightly different (smaller) dimension allowing for freeplay from D to R and back. Try the shims and let us know!
08-31-17, 12:40 PM
#35
Pole Position
You are absolutely correct and that is absolutely best practice...I don't think I could have described it any better.
For the 350, personally, I wouldn't remove the caliper to clean it, but the 250 you would have to...but I would clean both styles of calipers nonetheless.
And yes, the engineers know better, so they will tell you that this isn't necessary. LOL!!! The car will never know the difference...shhhh!
For the 350, personally, I wouldn't remove the caliper to clean it, but the 250 you would have to...but I would clean both styles of calipers nonetheless.
And yes, the engineers know better, so they will tell you that this isn't necessary. LOL!!! The car will never know the difference...shhhh!
Reason I say clean the sides within the pad housing in the calipers is because I struggled to get the new pads fitted because the surface was rough, and the brake pad backings weren't sliding in very well. That was because there was some dried brake lube from the factory that was baked on to the surface, so I just took some low-grit sandpaper and brake cleaner to address, and then the pads slid in easier.
These are little details that no tech or shop is going to pay attention to, which is why I like doing all the work myself whenever possible.
08-31-17, 04:57 PM
#37
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Thx, great minds think alike.
Reason I say clean the sides within the pad housing in the calipers is because I struggled to get the new pads fitted because the surface was rough, and the brake pad backings weren't sliding in very well. That was because there was some dried brake lube from the factory that was baked on to the surface, so I just took some low-grit sandpaper and brake cleaner to address, and then the pads slid in easier.
These are little details that no tech or shop is going to pay attention to, which is why I like doing all the work myself whenever possible.
Reason I say clean the sides within the pad housing in the calipers is because I struggled to get the new pads fitted because the surface was rough, and the brake pad backings weren't sliding in very well. That was because there was some dried brake lube from the factory that was baked on to the surface, so I just took some low-grit sandpaper and brake cleaner to address, and then the pads slid in easier.
These are little details that no tech or shop is going to pay attention to, which is why I like doing all the work myself whenever possible.
09-01-17, 06:03 AM
#38
How about the torque specs for the calipers and rims I can't seem to find the answer...
09-01-17, 08:06 AM
#39
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The wheel torque can be found in the owners manual in the Specification section in the back. I believe it's the usual Toyota/Lexus/Scion 78 ft. lbs.
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09-01-17, 08:09 AM
#40
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
The wheels I used 80 ft lbs +/- 5.
Calipers no idea. Just make them very tight. It may be hard to fit a torque wrench under there.
Calipers no idea. Just make them very tight. It may be hard to fit a torque wrench under there.
09-01-17, 09:30 AM
#41
The caliper bolts are 100 ft. lbs like the pic says
I went to get another shim kit from Lexus and they parts guys asked a tech and the tech said that it's only one shim per caliper. I'm going to put two shims like OP and see if that gets rid of my creaking noise.
I went to get another shim kit from Lexus and they parts guys asked a tech and the tech said that it's only one shim per caliper. I'm going to put two shims like OP and see if that gets rid of my creaking noise.
09-01-17, 09:45 AM
#42
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I'm trying to recall all the different shims I've seen on Toyota/Lexus/Scion...and I'm hard pressed to remember a pad set that has only one shim per pad...especially any modern vehicle.
Anything is possible, but I doubt that the pic I posted is incorrect...considering it's from the Lexus Repair Manual.
And I've haven't seen a fixed caliper with only one shim per pad.
I'm kinda dumbfounded why the parts guy asked the tech...there's a parts computer with the parts catalog, which will tell him exactly which shim kit to give you based on your VIN.
Seems like a red flag to me to keep driving to the next dealer!
09-01-17, 09:51 AM
#43
That's odd. The shims are sold as a set first of all, so it's just one part number for the contents of the bag.
I'm trying to recall all the different shims I've seen on Toyota/Lexus/Scion...and I'm hard pressed to remember a pad set that has only one shim per pad...especially any modern vehicle.
Anything is possible, but I doubt that the pic I posted is incorrect...considering it's from the Lexus Repair Manual.
And I've haven't seen a fixed caliper with only one shim per pad.
I'm kinda dumbfounded why the parts guy asked the tech...there's a parts computer with the parts catalog, which will tell him exactly which shim kit to give you based on your VIN.
Seems like a red flag to me to keep driving to the next dealer!
I'm trying to recall all the different shims I've seen on Toyota/Lexus/Scion...and I'm hard pressed to remember a pad set that has only one shim per pad...especially any modern vehicle.
Anything is possible, but I doubt that the pic I posted is incorrect...considering it's from the Lexus Repair Manual.
And I've haven't seen a fixed caliper with only one shim per pad.
I'm kinda dumbfounded why the parts guy asked the tech...there's a parts computer with the parts catalog, which will tell him exactly which shim kit to give you based on your VIN.
Seems like a red flag to me to keep driving to the next dealer!
09-01-17, 10:04 AM
#44
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