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Interesting setup. Looks like that can be pulled out fairly simply when you need trunk space? Looks like you'd still have a bunch of unsightly wires coming from the trunk. and your ground wire would have to be quite long. When you get a chance, can you take a clear picture of your setup, showing the wires and all. I would consider this if it can be quickly removed. With my setup now, it's just a sub box and two speaker wires. all the main wiring is below the trunk floor. I do like the idea of all in one though.
I will post some pics. I routed all the wires to come out in the same corner, which is behind the box when its in the trunk. The power, ground, and remote wire, all connect to a block that just unplugs from the box. The remote gain control and hi-level input also unplug easily. I connected my ground wire to the rear seat belt anchor hole at the floor. Once I get everything exactly like I want, I'm putting wire loom around all the wires together. Best part, is the sub was only $200.
. As for your remote turn-on wire, on my 2016, it was the small brown wire in the corner of the SMALL harness. Confirm with multimeter. You want 12V when car is ON and nothing when off
I’m trying to install a Rockford P300-12 powered sub and am stuck on this step. The small harness in my 2016 200t F-Sport looks different than what I’m reading:
What do I tap into for the remote turn-on?? Can it be figured out without a volt meter?
This is my first time doing this so I have no idea how to troubleshoot if it’s not in the guide.
a volt meter is less than $5 at your local budget tool store. (ours is harbor freight). worth it.
always know what you're tapping into. you don't want to be playing with airbag wires or anything else critical. definitely don't want to short something.
all you need for remote turn on is a hot 12v wire that is only hot when the ignition is on.
a volt meter is less than $5 at your local budget tool store. (ours is harbor freight). worth it.
always know what you're tapping into. you don't want to be playing with airbag wires or anything else critical. definitely don't want to short something.
all you need for remote turn on is a hot 12v wire that is only hot when the ignition is on.
This is going to be a stupid question, but how exactly do I test it? Do I need to take the wires out if that little clip?
I’ve tried poking around but I’m not getting any readings.
I don't know what those thick black wires are going into that clip. i wouldn't mess with those. the wire you'd need would be small in gauge and colored. possibly light blue, light brown. you test wires by making direct contact with the metal inside of where it goes into its harness clip. touch metal to metal. and you have to make sure the voltmeter is set to read 12VDC. You may get a reading of 5V or 12V. you'll want 12. And you'll need to cycle the ignition to make sure that 12V you found goes to 0V when the ignition is off. If you have a 2016 non-ML you should be able to just follow my DIY. I believe the colors were different for earlier years.
Yeah that’s what I’ve been trying but the small clip only has the two big black wires and the small white. 2016 non-ML. Not sure why mine is different; everything else has been the same so far.
That is strange. Those two wires not sure what they could be. does the other plug on the amp look like the one in my picture? can you take a far away pic showing all the plugs and all the corresponding places they plug into?
I’m trying to install a Rockford P300-12 powered sub and am stuck on this step. The small harness in my 2016 200t F-Sport looks different than what I’m reading:
What do I tap into for the remote turn-on?? Can it be figured out without a volt meter?
This is my first time doing this so I have no idea how to troubleshoot if it’s not in the guide.
You have factory navigation if that is a connection at the factory amplifier.
The two thick black wires, This is a Digital audio signal, They are coaxial cables. There is no accessory wire turning the Navigation equipped model cars, It is a digital Amplifier turn on signal sent from the factory stereo.
Run a wire to front cigarette lighter and tap to that to get Remote turn on wire.
Also I hope you did not really run that Yellow Ptap through that thick black wire like you have pictured. Again its a coaxial cable, not a single wire.
What’s the best way to tap into the cig lighter? Do I need to take the center console apart and t-tap the wire, or can it be done via the fuse box in the driver’s footwell?
The more detail you can provide the better; I’m obviously very new to this stuff.
You can tap into it behind the dash at the wire with vampire clips just use the tester to find the CIG lighter wire. I Tapped right at the fuse box using the ING2 wire using this thing.
'15 IS250 Specific Install, the small harness, high level distortion
Hey all,
First off, big ups to E46T for this write up. Super thorough and I used his method and placement. I used all the same hardware as this post (thanks again E46CT). I made one significant modification on my install.
The signal wires from the stock amp to the aftermarket amp in the original post are speaker output wires. The input wires (on a 2015 IS) are within the shielded cable on the small harness. The recommended Rockford amp has a low level input (RCA input) for preamp signals AND a high level input which is a 4 wire harness.
As you can see from the diagram below the wires used to run the signal are actually speaker output wires and should be connected to the High Level input which is simply a harness with wires and much easier to work with. No need to splice RCAs or buy a kit to convert to bare wires. The wires are small and go under carpet trunk panels without any issues.
I also tapped the speaker wire for the right rears above above the stock loom tubing so I didn't have to cram it all right next to the harness.
Sounds perfect through all volumes and speeds. I just finished and once cleaned up I will post some pics. So this may be the solution to those experiencing issues at higher volumes.
I could have used about 2 more feet of power cable to make it super clean so maybe pick up a couple of feet.
Wires used in original post. Use these but use High Level harness
This is the small harness. Only use the small white wire that is NOT shielded in black for remote power.
For a subwoofer, you'd just need a way of getting the signal to the input on the amp. that's usually done by the built in speaker level inputs at the amp. you can simply splice/solder/butt connector that. but if you want to use RCAs, then yes you'd need a LOC. They're cheap anyway so it's a non issue.
I am not sure how the ML system is setup though and which wires you'd need to tap into. but that's just a general idea of what the LOC is for.
Since no wires from stock amp and sub have to be unplugged, Does the new set up work in conjunction with the factory amp and sub? Or does the new amp bypass the factory sub?
10-11-18, 11:31 AM
