Sulfur Egg Smell Under Hard Acceleration
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sunamer (01-05-20)
03-18-16, 08:45 AM
#17
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Update again: So I've been doing more testing as the weather warms up, and I've been recording my trials with more detail. I don't have much data yet, but I think that when the weather is warmer (i.e. >10ºC) I don't have the smell or it's very faint.
My current theory is that when the air temp is cold and I floor it, the cat heats up more rapidly than when it's warmer, which somehow causes it to release that rotten egg smell. So my question is: can the ambient air temperature affect the cat enough to do this? Is it normal for a cat to have that smell when heating up quickly?
I'm waiting for the weather to warm up some more for me to test my theory. If it goes away by then, then it's likely warm weather or the "winter blend" gas all the stations have.
My current theory is that when the air temp is cold and I floor it, the cat heats up more rapidly than when it's warmer, which somehow causes it to release that rotten egg smell. So my question is: can the ambient air temperature affect the cat enough to do this? Is it normal for a cat to have that smell when heating up quickly?
I'm waiting for the weather to warm up some more for me to test my theory. If it goes away by then, then it's likely warm weather or the "winter blend" gas all the stations have.
03-24-16, 02:15 PM
#19
I think you have your theory backwards actually..
If it happens when the weather is colder, your cats which would also be colder, aren't working as they need to.
Catalytic converters need the heat from the engine to operate, that is why engine computers ignore the O2 sensor for the first few minutes of run time (called open loop) so the cats can warm up and do their thing. After which the ECU switches to closed loop operation and would alter the fuel mix.
Anyway it is a strange issue your having.
If it happens when the weather is colder, your cats which would also be colder, aren't working as they need to.
Catalytic converters need the heat from the engine to operate, that is why engine computers ignore the O2 sensor for the first few minutes of run time (called open loop) so the cats can warm up and do their thing. After which the ECU switches to closed loop operation and would alter the fuel mix.
Anyway it is a strange issue your having.
03-26-16, 04:12 PM
#20
Pole Position
Thread Starter
It's very strange. Over the past couple weeks, I noticed that there was no smell at lower speed acceleration (60 - 100 km/h) but I can consistently smell it at high speed acceleration (110-160 km/h) when the temperature outside is below about 10ºC. I also smelled it today going up a slight hill at 140 km/h with no acceleration (it was 7ºC today).
05-08-17, 01:43 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
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Rotten Eggs Smell with 2014 ES 350
Just chiming in here, I came across this thread doing a google search on why my 2014 Lexus ES 350 smells like Rotten Eggs when I get on the gas...It only happens when I punch it...would really like for it to go away, the smell usually lingers a few minutes before dissipating...
05-08-17, 02:44 PM
#22
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Just chiming in here, I came across this thread doing a google search on why my 2014 Lexus ES 350 smells like Rotten Eggs when I get on the gas...It only happens when I punch it...would really like for it to go away, the smell usually lingers a few minutes before dissipating...
First suggestion, switch fuel to a grade that has no ethanol, and run through at least 2-3 full tanks completely of the new fuel and then see if the smell still returns.
04-16-18, 07:28 AM
#23
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Catalytic Converter
I'm driving a '07 IS250.
I've had the same problem described. Every morning my commute to work involves stop-n-go traffic for about 30 minutes, followed by gradually getting up to speeds of around 60-80mph. Once I get to around 50-60mph there is a very strong sulfur smell when I open the windows or have the heat/ac venting from outside that persists for about 5 -10 minutes. If I do not drive in stop-n-go traffic and just go straight to 60-80mph, there is no smell.
I've tried changing gas brands multiple times and that has not helped. I replaced my catalytic converter as well and the smell is still there. Anybody have a solution to this? Does anybody know if the smell is hazardous? I'm concerned since I sometimes will have children/babies in my vehicle.
I've had the same problem described. Every morning my commute to work involves stop-n-go traffic for about 30 minutes, followed by gradually getting up to speeds of around 60-80mph. Once I get to around 50-60mph there is a very strong sulfur smell when I open the windows or have the heat/ac venting from outside that persists for about 5 -10 minutes. If I do not drive in stop-n-go traffic and just go straight to 60-80mph, there is no smell.
I've tried changing gas brands multiple times and that has not helped. I replaced my catalytic converter as well and the smell is still there. Anybody have a solution to this? Does anybody know if the smell is hazardous? I'm concerned since I sometimes will have children/babies in my vehicle.
04-16-18, 11:51 AM
#24
It's normal...Toyota's have done it for a long time, even my old 2008 Rav4 with the 2GR-FE engine does it. It's just unburnt crap getting past the cat, the solution is more heavy throttle to clean the cat's out 
04-16-18, 02:20 PM
#25
^^I have to agree that it is normal with all Toyota products across the board. It smells worse, for one reason or another, with those that use Shell gas. Having been around a lot of Yotas coming and going from work, it is a very typical smell and nothing to be worried about. It’s a running joke for some us to get a tailgater on our rears and just punch it, let out and laugh saying “smell my eggs.” It has something to do with their emissions design. Some Honda’s have the same smell if you pay attention to the on ramps when you’re behind them. Nasty, but common.
04-21-18, 05:25 PM
#26
Just experienced this too today (17 300 F Sport). I’ve put 3100 miles on it in about 4 months and today was the first time I really pushed it in manual with the windows down and could smell the same sulphuric smell and it dissipated about 5 minutes after I went back to normal driving. I’m curious as well but I’m sure it’s happened before and I just never could smell it
01-01-20, 01:10 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
I suspect break lines
(1) always use premium, (2) I suspect break line or break lines
(1) my 07 is250 was getting around 18 miles per gallon when I bought it in 2016, and smelled like a fart (more often just after an acceleration). After using premium for about 2 years the smell slowly stoped happening and my gas millage went up to around 24 miles per gallon. I am more concerned about miles per dollor than miles per gallon so even though premium cost more, the more miles per gallon offsets the cost per gallon, ie 18 miles from gas that cost $2.00 per gallon = $0.11 per mile while 24 miles from gas that cost $2.50 per gallon = $0.10 per mile, and it's better for my engine by keeping fuel injectors clean, catalitic converters clean requiring less maintnance and so-forth and so-on. You might be able to speed this process up by running your gas tank low and putting 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (about $10 at walmart) in your gas tank and adding 9 gallons of gas then driving till your tank is low again before filling up (do this at your own risk) see scotty kilmore on youtub how to clean catalitic converters. If gas sets too long it will turn to lacquer, this is the cause of most lawn mowers not to start in the spring after setting all winter long.
(2) you said you recently had breaks worked on, when you remove your break calipers your susposed to tie them up to keep from kinking the rubber hosses, if your not carefull you can drop the caliper when tiying them up or untiying them (I've done it myself). Your rubber hoses are double hoses, there is actualy a hose inside a hose, the inside hose can break, tare or sepperate from the outer hose (and you won't be able to see it) causing the break fluid not to allways compleatly go back up the break line to the resivor after aplying your breaks, this can cause your breaks to drag at times such as after a hard break then, after hours of setting, the fluid will gradualy go back and not cause the iner hose to restrict the return fluid flow till the next hard break episode. auto repair shops are only as reputable as there worst mechanic, and as they higher diferent mechanics it can somtimes take a while to find out if one is not competent or (god forbid) actualy disonest, dealerships are not immune to these mechanics. I believe the best thing is to do your own work (espicily oil changes) if your not mechanicly inclined find a single person (not a dealership or company) that is honest and competent, to do all your work.
Any mechanic can slip up and drop a break caliper and say (awh ****, maybe it will be OK),,, and maybe it will, but maybe it wont
(1) my 07 is250 was getting around 18 miles per gallon when I bought it in 2016, and smelled like a fart (more often just after an acceleration). After using premium for about 2 years the smell slowly stoped happening and my gas millage went up to around 24 miles per gallon. I am more concerned about miles per dollor than miles per gallon so even though premium cost more, the more miles per gallon offsets the cost per gallon, ie 18 miles from gas that cost $2.00 per gallon = $0.11 per mile while 24 miles from gas that cost $2.50 per gallon = $0.10 per mile, and it's better for my engine by keeping fuel injectors clean, catalitic converters clean requiring less maintnance and so-forth and so-on. You might be able to speed this process up by running your gas tank low and putting 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (about $10 at walmart) in your gas tank and adding 9 gallons of gas then driving till your tank is low again before filling up (do this at your own risk) see scotty kilmore on youtub how to clean catalitic converters. If gas sets too long it will turn to lacquer, this is the cause of most lawn mowers not to start in the spring after setting all winter long.
(2) you said you recently had breaks worked on, when you remove your break calipers your susposed to tie them up to keep from kinking the rubber hosses, if your not carefull you can drop the caliper when tiying them up or untiying them (I've done it myself). Your rubber hoses are double hoses, there is actualy a hose inside a hose, the inside hose can break, tare or sepperate from the outer hose (and you won't be able to see it) causing the break fluid not to allways compleatly go back up the break line to the resivor after aplying your breaks, this can cause your breaks to drag at times such as after a hard break then, after hours of setting, the fluid will gradualy go back and not cause the iner hose to restrict the return fluid flow till the next hard break episode. auto repair shops are only as reputable as there worst mechanic, and as they higher diferent mechanics it can somtimes take a while to find out if one is not competent or (god forbid) actualy disonest, dealerships are not immune to these mechanics. I believe the best thing is to do your own work (espicily oil changes) if your not mechanicly inclined find a single person (not a dealership or company) that is honest and competent, to do all your work.
Any mechanic can slip up and drop a break caliper and say (awh ****, maybe it will be OK),,, and maybe it will, but maybe it wont
01-02-20, 07:30 AM
#28
drives cars
(1) always use premium, (2) I suspect break line or break lines
(1) my 07 is250 was getting around 18 miles per gallon when I bought it in 2016, and smelled like a fart (more often just after an acceleration). After using premium for about 2 years the smell slowly stoped happening and my gas millage went up to around 24 miles per gallon. I am more concerned about miles per dollor than miles per gallon so even though premium cost more, the more miles per gallon offsets the cost per gallon, ie 18 miles from gas that cost $2.00 per gallon = $0.11 per mile while 24 miles from gas that cost $2.50 per gallon = $0.10 per mile, and it's better for my engine by keeping fuel injectors clean, catalitic converters clean requiring less maintnance and so-forth and so-on. You might be able to speed this process up by running your gas tank low and putting 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (about $10 at walmart) in your gas tank and adding 9 gallons of gas then driving till your tank is low again before filling up (do this at your own risk) see scotty kilmore on youtub how to clean catalitic converters. If gas sets too long it will turn to lacquer, this is the cause of most lawn mowers not to start in the spring after setting all winter long.
(2) you said you recently had breaks worked on, when you remove your break calipers your susposed to tie them up to keep from kinking the rubber hosses, if your not carefull you can drop the caliper when tiying them up or untiying them (I've done it myself). Your rubber hoses are double hoses, there is actualy a hose inside a hose, the inside hose can break, tare or sepperate from the outer hose (and you won't be able to see it) causing the break fluid not to allways compleatly go back up the break line to the resivor after aplying your breaks, this can cause your breaks to drag at times such as after a hard break then, after hours of setting, the fluid will gradualy go back and not cause the iner hose to restrict the return fluid flow till the next hard break episode. auto repair shops are only as reputable as there worst mechanic, and as they higher diferent mechanics it can somtimes take a while to find out if one is not competent or (god forbid) actualy disonest, dealerships are not immune to these mechanics. I believe the best thing is to do your own work (espicily oil changes) if your not mechanicly inclined find a single person (not a dealership or company) that is honest and competent, to do all your work.
Any mechanic can slip up and drop a break caliper and say (awh ****, maybe it will be OK),,, and maybe it will, but maybe it wont
(1) my 07 is250 was getting around 18 miles per gallon when I bought it in 2016, and smelled like a fart (more often just after an acceleration). After using premium for about 2 years the smell slowly stoped happening and my gas millage went up to around 24 miles per gallon. I am more concerned about miles per dollor than miles per gallon so even though premium cost more, the more miles per gallon offsets the cost per gallon, ie 18 miles from gas that cost $2.00 per gallon = $0.11 per mile while 24 miles from gas that cost $2.50 per gallon = $0.10 per mile, and it's better for my engine by keeping fuel injectors clean, catalitic converters clean requiring less maintnance and so-forth and so-on. You might be able to speed this process up by running your gas tank low and putting 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (about $10 at walmart) in your gas tank and adding 9 gallons of gas then driving till your tank is low again before filling up (do this at your own risk) see scotty kilmore on youtub how to clean catalitic converters. If gas sets too long it will turn to lacquer, this is the cause of most lawn mowers not to start in the spring after setting all winter long.
(2) you said you recently had breaks worked on, when you remove your break calipers your susposed to tie them up to keep from kinking the rubber hosses, if your not carefull you can drop the caliper when tiying them up or untiying them (I've done it myself). Your rubber hoses are double hoses, there is actualy a hose inside a hose, the inside hose can break, tare or sepperate from the outer hose (and you won't be able to see it) causing the break fluid not to allways compleatly go back up the break line to the resivor after aplying your breaks, this can cause your breaks to drag at times such as after a hard break then, after hours of setting, the fluid will gradualy go back and not cause the iner hose to restrict the return fluid flow till the next hard break episode. auto repair shops are only as reputable as there worst mechanic, and as they higher diferent mechanics it can somtimes take a while to find out if one is not competent or (god forbid) actualy disonest, dealerships are not immune to these mechanics. I believe the best thing is to do your own work (espicily oil changes) if your not mechanicly inclined find a single person (not a dealership or company) that is honest and competent, to do all your work.
Any mechanic can slip up and drop a break caliper and say (awh ****, maybe it will be OK),,, and maybe it will, but maybe it wont
01-02-20, 02:07 PM
#30
Intermediate
Experienced this smell occasionally for a few months after I picked my car up CPO last March when accelerating hard. Now I don't get it anymore, even when flooring it.
Maybe the former lease holder drove like a grandma.
Maybe the former lease holder drove like a grandma.