Hi,
I am jumping on this thread because my 2015 IS250 FSport is doing exactly what is described here. What I find remarkable is that I had the same issue with using my key fob to unlock my doors, crawled in passenger; I had the thump against my gas door (was pushing out gas door when my alarm was activated); but recently as I was putting gas in the car, the driver's door locked itself with the key inside the car. Fortunately, the passenger door was open but the unlock button on the door would not work. Has anyone experienced this?

 

My remote and sensor wouldn't unlock the driver's door. The dealer replaced the lock actuator. 2015 is350 fsport. I have a video of it in action

door lock
https://vid.me/RiD6



AC Servo Motor ( turn volume up to hear the grinding noise)
https://vid.me/3hl7
.

 

I have copied this thread and sent it to Corporate Lexus. As many have mentioned, when taking our cars into the dealer, they are unable to replicate the problem. I will share your repair with my dealer and see if they are willing to replace the lock acuator. Thank you for the heads up. I will keep everyone in the loop.

 

2014 IS250
Unfortunately, I'm having the same issue.
Happened first time last week, had to open passenger door -reach across -and unlock driver's door.
Called local dealer -asked them to put a note on my service records.

Happened again yesterday. Took car in. Note was there from last week.
Results today: "Technician unable to duplicate."
Wants me to bring it in -when it happens again. Asked if he wanted me to climb across console, drive to dealership. Climb BACK across console to get out.
"Well...." was the reply.
Claims that there are no other reports of IS's doing this - and then I go online and find this thread.
Any chance that any of you actually got this repaired, and can post their service ticket?????

 

Next time it happens, take out your phone and record a video. Then call Lexus Roadside Assistance and have them tow the car to the dealer. Have them give you a loaner, and let them keep the car until the problem is fixed.

 

The CR2032 batteries are available everywhere i have looked for them.( Walmart, Target, grocery stores, etc.)

 

Hotsaw,,
I can't speak for everyone's issue -only mine.
This has nothing to do with the battery in the Fob/Proximity Key/Whatever you want to call it..... It unlocks EVERY door (except the driver's door).
If I was forced to guess - I'd say this is a lock actuator - that only partially pulls the lock mechanism to Open.

 

Happened again today. This time wife took a video. Will be sending video to Service manager. Again, EVERYTHING unlocks - except the driver door. I'm still leaning towards a lock actuator.

 

I'd agree. To completely rule out the remote try my suggestion above.

 

If you're suggesting to touch the handle, that's the normal way my wife opens car.
Car won't unlock driver door either by touching handle, or by pressing unlock on key fob.
It does unlock EVERYTHING else -just not drivers door.

 

Sorry to bring an old thread up but I'm experiencing the same issue as the OP.
I changed out both remote batteries remote and still none of the button works. I can't unlock the car with remote or touch the exterior handle to unlock. I can manually enter the car and the remote starts the car though. Which is very strange. Anyone having that kind of issue?

 

Based on your other thread, it sounds like your vehicle is having some general electrical issues, especially the TC light constantly being on.

 

I am having nearly the same problem, the car will not respond to the door touch sensors or key fob properly. Hit the fob and it sounds like the gas door locks but nothing else, hit the touch sensors and at most the car beeps and maybe locks the back doors, passenger door seems to never unlock no matter what. Even the lock and unlock buttons seem to work only when they want. Any imput to tell the dealer when I take it in later this month?

 

Same thing happened to me. Found out my rear driver side door lock actuator wasn't working. Had it replace by the dealer and now it's all good. I would start there.

 

Yeah I think it's the lock actuator too. A little over a year ago my front two lock actuators stopped working within a day of each other. I was 1000 miles out of warranty, but I called Lexus and they were able to cover them for me anyway. The dealer's invoice including labor was $1400 to replace the front two actuators. Then about a month later my rear passenger lock actuator went out. I didn't want to pay ~$700 to get it fixed so I've just been dealing with that for the past year. Last month my other rear door lock actuator went out. The price for a new lock actuator is around $500/each, plus you get charged about an hour of labor per door (~ $100). I purchased a couple of refurbished ones with lifetime warranties off of ebay the other day for around $100/each, and they should be here next week and then I plan to get them both installed. If they work I'll post back.

I'd also refer them to this link:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...32421-9999.pdf

The lock actuators being crap, is a known issue apparently as shown by the above service bulletin.