You are turning the crank to close the respective valves, yes? What is being used for media?
Last - are you able to get it out.

 

Yes, valves are closed while blasting. I'm using walnuts. I have a shop vac going with a crevice tool attached. I'm vacuuming and blasting at the same time and covering both with a rag while doing so to prevent excess shells from blowing all over the place. It's still making a mess but I also taped off the rest of the openings on the motor with duct tape. After blasting, there is some residual media in the intake plenum so I am then following up with just blowing air in there to get the rest of the walnuts out. The only thing left is some light residual dust.

 

I was wondering if anyone could help me here. So I am moving forward with the engine swap. I threw a rod in my old engine that lodge itself into the engine casing and ended up being a real pain to break free so I could turn the crank and unbolt the torque converter. After getting the torque converter unbolted, I separated the transmission from the old engine. When I did this, the torque converter still managed to fall out. I put the torque converter back on the shaft but it doesn't seem to be going all the way on. There are two notches on the end and it appears there might be a key that fits one of the notches on the transmission. I've tried readjusting the torque converter several times but it still doesn't seem to be sliding on all the way. Is there a trick to this?

EDIT: Never mind. I asked the question and then went back out and it magically popped right on.

 

Generally holding the pilot guide so the converter is level and spin it back and forth (somewhat aggressively) while nudging it in does the trick... you should feel 3 distinct steps.

Dump as much fluid out as you can and you'll get fluid change too.
If ever in doubt double check and never tighten bell housing bolts if the case doesn't seat to the block on its own.