I’m trying to clean the engine based on an old mechanics trick I’ve used on other cars. Mist water with spray bottle into throttle body at about 1500-2000 rpm. I’m happy with this procedure. You can look it up as there’s many other posts in general about it. In my experience it works well and it’s cheap.

In any case, I can’t keep the car on. It won’t start without intake connected and if I pull intake while running it shuts off. Even just a little disconnection makes it shut off

Anyone know an override?

 

Yeah, run an entirely different engine control system that doesn't use a MAF sensor, then you can do that all you want.

The wires that go to the thingy in the air tube just behind the air filter are for the Mass Air Flow sensor. Oversimplifying: there's a hot wire that cools down as air goes past it, the change in temperature is what the engine monitors to know how much fuel it needs to run. The tube it's located in is calibrated by cross-sectional area. Running straight from the throttle body means the engine sees zero air flow going into the engine and fuels accordingly. Shoot your water or decarb spray into one of the available ports on the intake, I use sea foam down the brake booster line.

What kinda mechanics' tricks you got for dirty contact points?

 

Yes I'm aware of the MAF sensor but have never actually seen a car shut off because the intake is disconnected. I kind of did that running water into the evap line but it's really not the same as getting a fine mist airborne.

I tried Seafoam actually after the intake issue determined to do something since it has the straw that sticks in curved but it didn't look different down the spark plug hole and to me it looked better with water on previous cars. Some sites say seafoam doesn't have the ingredient to actually deal with carbon.

 

Seafoam after the intake works. I used the port above the evap line on the intake manifold. Transfer the seafoam to a industrial grade squirt bottle. You can fine tune the misting on the nozzle.

I ran about 18.00in of hose to the port. Then placed the open end on the squirter bottle. Have someone on the accelerator pushing 2000 rpms. Burst the sprays about 2-3 seconds apart.

Change oil afterwards.

 

The 350 has two ports on the according tube between the MAF and TB, throw a reducer on the larger one (with the resonator on it) and poke it up to 2500 and have at it.

You do need pressure and good tip to atomize the mixture, but it should work OK. Keep in mind it could pool and sit in the hose until opened up which could raise hell.

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ner/stp0/19127