08 IS250, 142K miles A960E RWD trans, car started shifting hard, sometimes it would take off in 3rd gear. I replaced the MAF sensor, I read somewhere to change it. After replacing the sensor the car shifted better for a couple trips. While driving one day it just quit moving. Motor running fine, no forward or reverse, it seemed like it was in neutral. Another thing, No codes. Towed it home, put code scanner on no trouble codes. I drained trans oil, it was black with a little burnt smell. I removed the pan, cleaned up and changed filter. Put in New WS trans fluid thinking hopefully it will move. No forward or reverse!

Solenoid issues? ANY info or advice is appreciated... Thanks

 

You know it's at the proper fill level?

I guess I would start at fuse level and work my way down. If the TCU died and isn't commanding the solenoid to move, that seems probable but unlikely.
Download this and read up on what solenoids fire to go forward in 1st and 3rd and reverse. Now pull the pan and verify these solenoids have continuity. In short if the forward clutch solenoid is not being activated it won't move. Why the TCU isn't throwing a code is beyond me. A lot of things can go wrong. Note; ohming the solenoids is not enough. You have to power them and verify they function. Mind you some are 3 way valves.
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/...logs/A760E.pdf
Put an @ in front of my user name and I'll see what I can do.

 

It drained out six quartz and I could only fill back 5 before it began to leak. I started the motor to get warm to do the heat test. That’s when I tried to put in gear and nothing so I stopped everything. I know the fluid level is not correct.

 

How did you get 6 quarts out? On a good day with a filter drop most are lucky to get 3.5 qts.

After putting in what pan holds (3.5 qts) you have to start it to fill the torque converter (TC). Once the TC fills the pan empties and thats when you top it off.

Did you loosen the valve body or something? That said somehow I doubt another 1.5 qts is going to change the results.
What did the pan bottom look like? Any metal, rubber, or teflon plastic chunks?

Follow advise in previous post....

BTW you can reuse that fluid if you transfer it cleanly back to storage.

 

I did not touch value body, I drained oil, pulled pan, filter and cleaned. I ordered new filter and gasket online so I had to wait. In the mean time, I put the pan back on with two bolts to prevent contamination. When the filter arrived I pulled the pan and there was a lot of oil in it. The gasket was the wrong one so I returned everything and reapplied the pan. The right filter and gasket showed up and I pulled the pan again and there was more oil. I tried to account for all the oil removed.

I am checking fuses now. Thanks and I hope I made sense of what I was trying to say..

 

Motor runs fine, everything is working as intended... any particular fuse I should check??

 

Are you still only able to fill 5 of 6 quarts? Also if I remember correctly from ALLDATA there is a very specific refill procedure on these cars.

 

Have not tried any more fluid... of all the Lexus is250 expert people out there,,,,,, I find it hard to believe no one has any ideas as to what the problem may be...

 

Did you do step 6 on this procedure?

https://www.instructables.com/id/Tra...d-Replacement/

 

I have not but give it a try today... thanks

 

Step one is knowing it is full of fluid.
That said, the fact that it quit moving all together speaks volumes. To solve this, there has to be facts presented. There are none. Therefore the odds of some miracle answer making your transmission come back to life are pretty much nil.

Confirm the solenoids operate and direct fluid to the forward clutch pack. If that isn't happening than it won't be moving either direction on its own.

You could drop the VB and take an air nozzle at 60psi and apply air to the port feeding the forward clutch pack. If you hear a giant leak and oil sprays everywhere, that leak is telling you its dead. Otherwise you hear a solid THUMP of the clutch pack engaging. But if the friction material was in the pan and not on the discs, that also means no forward motion. You never ssid what was in the the pans bottom.
TMI... GL

 

Yea give it a shot from what I’ve heard the temperature step (step 6) is very very important. On YouTube people show videos of where there is procedure where your Lexus will let you know its transmission temp is ready or at optimum temp (can’t remember) by lighting up the “D” and “R” on the transmission position indicator on the cluster

 

Thanks for replying,,,, my apologies for being a smart a$$. Frustration is setting in.

GL, only facts I have is what I described. I want to try your suggestions so please walk me through them. I want to think it’s something simple, willing to try almost anything before I have to drop tranny.. thanks again!! Much Love for taking the time to help me!!

 

I know your trans is not the same but the principal is the same. Read pages 14 through 20 of the link above. Notice what needs to happen for 1st and Reverse movement. Also, you might go looking for this document for the A960. I have never have.

This is all I have time for ATM.

 

There was some black stuff around the magnets and the oil was black... That is about it.

I tried understanding those pages that you asked me to read but unfortunately I don't . How do I check solenoid 1 for forward and reverse? I wonder why no DTC if the solenoid is not pumping oil. Thanks