i did a brake job 2006 IS250 AWD, new rotors new pads new pins grease and new boots. premium rotors. broke the pads on per manf. specs. underneath the rotor, the ebrake dust shields and just in general-rust. rusted right up. i had zero interest in getting into that. before i did the brake job the car will make a noise when turning left in the rear left wheel area, i think. after a few miles of city travel at operating temperature and having sat for 5 min in 30 degree weather, i checked the rotors. the right side was very warm, but you could keep your fingers on it. the left side, scolded my finger in under a second, extremely hot. cook n egg no problem.

can anyone tell me whats going on?

 

 

yup seized caliper, common issue with our cars. You can try regreasing the slide pin but I just opted to get a remanufactured caliper and swapped them out

 

+1. The calipers on these cars looove seizing up right after a pad change. I replaced one of my rears about 2 years ago, and just recently, that replaced caliper decided it wanted to seize up while just driving around (wondered why I felt a ton of heat while putting in gas one day, though it was driving weird the whole day...). The rebuilt caliper seized up since the seal on the piston wasn't sitting right and was letting water/debris in, gotta love that quality from Autozone...

 

This stuff works. I bought a bottle of permatex purple ceramic it's worthless. Waste of money the other brands tend to dry, and end up sticking the slide pins, and what not.

​​​​​​Sil Glyde it stays fresh and lubricated.

 

thanks i will make this change. i bought a small bottle of some very high prices synthetic stuff.

 

Are you talking about the front brakes? If yes, the slider pin on the top is different than the bottom. The top one has a plastic O-ring on it. I don't remember which one, but one of the slider pins is longer.

I have a 2011 IS250 AWD. Don't know if it's different from yours.

 

sorry, no its the driver rear. only one fat bolt then 2 thin pins that slide in. never seen a brake set up like this before

 

is it possible that i didnt get the boots on correctly and the grease didnt stay in? i just did it a few weeks ago, but i could get the new boots to sit on the lips properly. not happy about it but after a few hours of rusted and seized fight for every inch, i just wanted to go inside

 

I don't see how you could've. We are talking about the slide boots rear calipers? I normally just fix it to the bracket side. Then just slide it in until I see the boot clamp itself on the lips. Then slide it back and forth a little to see if it's clipped on both lips. After that I just proceed to bolt the top bolt on.

So its the caliper getting stock on the slide, or its the piston is not retracting?

Also you mentioned you had some ceramic grease? When I did the permatex long ago. I was doing a tire rotation. I decided to check the slide pins on front calipers. They were so stuck on and not sliding at all. That's when I started to search for a better grease. Which in turn I found Sil Glyde at the time.
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that makes since. this stuff was really thick, very hard to work with. and the boots were , well, they were just a pain in the ***. no, i could not get them up onto the lips. i haven't had time tolook, the cars been sitting. ill take the wheel off soon and share with you what i find, thanks again Mike

 

so i took the wheel of and broke down the brakes cleaned and re greased. cant really use much grease as it wont go back together if i use too much. after not driving the car for a week and doing the brake, i drove it a half mile. both rotors instantly melted snow like the top of a wood stove. drove the car today, checked after 2 short drives and all is well. so certainly cant say its fixed. so if this all didnt work then its simply replacing the caliper, correct?

the top pin, the fat one...what type of movement are we talking about? should it be very easy to move back and forth or hard ? on a 1-10 scale it was a 10 before i removed basically all the grease i just put in, now its more like a 7.its much tougher then ive seen on other cars.

i took some pictures but ive spent over a half an hour trying to put them up. guess its not important

 

On a brand new OEM caliper (not attached to the car with no pads), it would be a 1 out of 10 to press the one side to slide it. But after miles on a packed caliper, it will obviously tighten up...but not a 7 out of 10 in my book.

 

Is there any chance that during the first repair it was over-packed with grease? As you noted, it makes it difficult to assemble but if the grease is too thick and can't leak past the guide pin it shoves the pad into the rotor keeping it hot all the time.

I'm just saying be very careful about the amount and quality of grease used. Too much and you force the pad into the rotor on the inside if the caliper won't slide like it's supposed too.

That said, check your inside pad for wear.

I used this green silicone based grease from Permatex about a month ago and all seems well so far.

Also if there is a bunch of air trapped in the line the piston in the caliper won't retract when you let off the brakes so that can also be a factor. Bleed those brakes!!

 

yeah def. didnt consider this at all. thanks alot man.what would you guess is the issue, given that it comes and goes? last night they were hot, earlier they were as cool as a cucumber so it comes and goes