After about 5-6 hours today with breaks I got the engine out.. Pulled it out the top was very easy.. Tomorrow Ill switch in some new hoses and accessories and try to figure out what to do about that coolant nipple im assuming with it being under pressure it needs to be pressed in?

 

Nice....I like your Gray Air Jacks, someone works on trailers or trucks...hehehe...

Take lots of pictures.....

 

They are a little over kill for this LOL but yes they work very well for heavy vehicles and they are air over hydraulic so very easy to get a vehicle way up in the air safely.

 

Got the engine installed today worked on it about 6 hours today, spent about 1.5 hours of that taking apart the old motor to get the TQ converter off the flex plate since the engine was locked up and wouldn't spin.

The new engine was identical except the bracket where the heater hoses connect to. Mine fro 2010 had a fuel line that went to the intake built into the sensor and the new engine did not so i had to swap my whole bracket and sensor over. other then that everything went very well. Should have this things running after a half days work tomorrow.

This will be my second motor this week earlier in the week I installed the new Stroker engine in my Mustang in preparation for the twin turbos if there are any mustang Enthusiasts in here

 

Hats off to you...Hopefully you're not working alone and have some help...

 

Looking good.

Jeff

 

Thanks Guys no im not working alone one of my sons has been helping me out. Now on to some business if you want to pull from the top there is a couple things you need to know... Just a few main take aways..

1. You do not need to discharge the AC if you remove the radiator" wash radiator while you have it out" and condenser you can pull the condenser out of the way enough to walk the motor out the front.

2. Remove the driver side header OR remove the steering linkage so they dont collide on the way out. You can leave the passenger header and install the same way.. I removed my DS header after i had the motor partially out this made the bolts easy to access.

3. Unhook the electrical main box the one on the front drivers side, and the box next to the battery can stay buy you have to unhook the main power wire and throw it on top the engine.

4. Pull the transmission and engine together by just unhooking the driveshaft. Make sure you drain the trans oil out in a container so you know EXACTLY how much to put back in as this is a good time to service the transmission too.

5. Drivers rear and passenger side of block there is a good chain hookins source it has 2 bolt holes side by side for you to hook your chains too..

6. Hook everything up on the engine stand all the electrical connections , all the hoses ETC there is no room in the rear of the motor once you get it put in.

 

this is what i used to attach the nipple back on the coolant fill





A partially complete MOD motor i finished earlier this week for my Turbo Mustang.

 

Finished up the engine this morning and put maybe 100 miles on the car today running around in it. My next order of business will be to weld me up a custom oil catch can...

 

Good to hear that the car is back on the road. Yes it took me longer because I didn't remove the transmission at the same time, as I simply didn't have the room. Is it a 2GR or 4GR? I'm not exactly sold on catch cans being effective. Sure they remove some oil but valve deposits can still occur.

 

Thanks It was a long weekend but worth it to get that car back on the road.... 4GR is what the engine block said Im not fluent enough about the differences to be honest..

The oil catch can works only of it is designed properly, the ideal is to seprate the oil from the fumes so throwing the air in a can just wont work you have to chamber it properly then filter out the oil then move the air out of the can. I got a pretty good design ill be welding up later on this week out of aluminum.

Any oily air you can keep off the valves will help keep them clean for a longer period of time but with direct injection it will eventually get dirty since there is no fuel moving over the valve.

 

she about done

New headlights will be here tomorrow and itll be a wrap on this Overhaul..

I would like to thank Lexus for not honoring their warranty from which my car still had 2 years left. Too beat it all They blew this car up while at the dealership for the valve cleaning and refused to fix it so i got stuck with the task and the Bill.

 

So are these OEM parts worth hanging onto? I have a full engine worth of sensors, Some fuel injectors, Alternator, AC compressor, basically everything that came off my engine. the only thing that is not good is the engine it is Trashed. As you can see there are 3 Rods completely broken off, pistons everywhere ETC.

Thanks to JDM Used Engines for sending such a nice lightly used engine in such a short notice. Great business to deal with.

 

Anyone have a gauge pod setup in their IS? I am thinking about adding a oil pressure gauge at minimum Since mine dont have anything to check the oil pressure with.

 

Personally, I would have tapped and threaded in a new fitting into where that pressed fitting was. But I hope that holds for you!

Great work on the 2IS! I see why this swap was nothing to you; you obviously work on higher-caliber vehicles from time to time.

There has been no aftermarket pods created to my knowledge. I've seen a couple members install a gauge into the driver's side vent though. Not where i'd put it, but it does the job. I also agree that an oil pressure gauge would be nice to have. On my previous vehicles (Hondas), that was one of the first "mods" I did to them.