Replaced Alternator, Now Car Won't Start. HELP!
#1
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Replaced Alternator, Now Car Won't Start. HELP!
So I just replaced my alternator, charged my week old battery at autozone to 100%, hooked it back up, and when I went to turn my car on, I got power to everything but the car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even try to turn over. I can hear the fuel but nothing happens. PLEASE HELP!!
#3
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The link above doesn't show any solution with the issue he's having.
#4
So I just replaced my alternator, charged my week old battery at autozone to 100%, hooked it back up, and when I went to turn my car on, I got power to everything but the car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even try to turn over. I can hear the fuel but nothing happens. PLEASE HELP!!
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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Looks like others went down this road on other models...
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html
#7
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Looks like others went down this road on other models...
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html
Fuseable link in panel, the buss bar part. Not sure how they blew it, but worth checking...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...m-to-work.html
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#10
Lexus Test Driver
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Per the owners manual a visual inspection is possible too. With the cover off you can see the power comes in from the top and connects to wires headed out of box through the bottom.
I didn't want yank relays and break cover tabs on mine as its all intact.
At a quick glance those items **appear to be** hot all the time as battery goes right into that panel. Use caution or disconnect the battery ground for ohm testing or any open fuse link will put 12v across your meter.
That said, if it is hot always, with battery connected, meter set to volts DC, connect one lead to ground and with the other lead probe every connection at the bottom of the panel (wire crmp). They should all show 12v. Any that do not, the fused link is open.
Don't forget the fuses in the cockpit and over the left fender.
Attached are 2013 IS-350 right front near battery...
I didn't want yank relays and break cover tabs on mine as its all intact.
At a quick glance those items **appear to be** hot all the time as battery goes right into that panel. Use caution or disconnect the battery ground for ohm testing or any open fuse link will put 12v across your meter.
That said, if it is hot always, with battery connected, meter set to volts DC, connect one lead to ground and with the other lead probe every connection at the bottom of the panel (wire crmp). They should all show 12v. Any that do not, the fused link is open.
Don't forget the fuses in the cockpit and over the left fender.
Attached are 2013 IS-350 right front near battery...
#12
So to be clear, you replaced the alternator and now when you depress the brake, the start button turns green. You press the start button and nothing, no click, no change in lights, nothing? Check your battery voltage. If that's good, you need to see if you're getting juice to the starter. One question, why did you replace the alternator? Did it fail or something? Was your battery completely discharged? If so, why? Lights left on or did something mysterious kill the battery?
#13
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So to be clear, you replaced the alternator and now when you depress the brake, the start button turns green. You press the start button and nothing, no click, no change in lights, nothing? Check your battery voltage. If that's good, you need to see if you're getting juice to the starter. One question, why did you replace the alternator? Did it fail or something? Was your battery completely discharged? If so, why? Lights left on or did something mysterious kill the battery?
#14
Did you do this with the battery connected? If so, your multi meter might read it wrong. Based on all you're saying and everything you've done, it has to be that bus-bar fuse. Everybody I've read about having the same exact problem as you ends up finding one of the many fusible links of that fuse blown.
You also said,....
The last thing in that quote was disconnected the battery. That was after you pulled the alternator. If you actually did that in the order you say, you pulled the alternator with the batter connected. I'm pretty sure everyone that has had similar problems did the same no-no.
You're gonna have to take a leap of faith on what most people find when they replace the alternator and have starting problems after. It usually is that bus-bar fuse.
You also said,....
You're gonna have to take a leap of faith on what most people find when they replace the alternator and have starting problems after. It usually is that bus-bar fuse.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
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There is one down side to using a digital meter here. It takes nothing to power them. Meaning a circuit could show potential energy of 12.7v but have no load carrying capacity. Do you have a 12v test lamp? Unlike a meter, an incandescent lamp draws current to operate. Perhaps repeat fuse test with test lamp.
Can you explain exactly what your test method was? i.e. connected and probed what and where.
Last question, did you visually inspect every fuse for opens on both engine panels?
Can you explain exactly what your test method was? i.e. connected and probed what and where.
Last question, did you visually inspect every fuse for opens on both engine panels?