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Just wanted opinions on two options, I've been researching a lot on what's safe and what's not but I really wanted this wheel.
Circled red are the places that the oem studs protrudes out from the 15mm spacer surface and hit. It's a pity the indentation is so deep yet it is not centred.
So here are my options.
1) Trim the oem studs down flush with the spacer surface. This I have measured to be 1/2 the studs (I know what is massive). The low profile nut that comes with the spacers only need half the studs to secure the spacers to the hub.
(obviously if I put back my oem wheels I will get new oem studs put back in)
2) Replace the 15mm bolt on spacer with 5mm non-bolt on type and get longer extended studs.
Spacers are NOT recommended just ask your insurance company they are only good for looks. There are a lot of threads on this all the pros and cons, it all come up to you.
I didn't ask whether they are recommended or not and I know about legality etc. If I have a WRX or similar I would not even think about spacers but I sit in traffic to and from work, drive like a granny and don't know what tracking means. Also my reason is not becos I want an aggressive or hella flush look, it's to clear the suspension arm (only applying spacer for the fronts not rear).
I've measured the amount of turns on a nut when putting in 5mm spacers and there's about 9 turns left and it's using oem lugs. I read that the safe amount is 6-7 turns. I think option2 is safer too given the only risk is the centre hub that the wheel sit on is reduced my 5mm.
I've ran 5mm slip-on spacers with OEM studs for about 4 months now without issue.
The lugs have plenty of turns and I don't feel that it is unsafe at all.
Also my car is driven pretty hard and through some pretty rough road conditions.
I don't recommend cutting the OEM studs at all (if you decide to run a bolt-on spacer). If you change wheels or want to return to stock you'll have to replace all the studs which is a PITA.
Have the machine shop or someone with the floor drill press bore out these pockets to accommodate the wheel studs. It's not that difficult, just measure how much your studs stick out past the spacer and how deep you need to bore out the pockets.
If in doubt contact these guys, they will do it in a heartbeat.
Thanks I too have found a place that will widen the hole. There was another same brand, same type and size wheels that has the hole right to the edge as standard, not sure why this isn't so for this wheel.
Now I have three options, plus the 4th of not doing all 3 options and get another set of wheels.
Thanks I too have found a place that will widen the hole. There was another same brand, same type and size wheels that has the hole right to the edge as standard, not sure why this isn't so for this wheel.
Now I have three options, plus the 4th of not doing all 3 options and get another set of wheels.
I've ran 5mm slip-on spacers with OEM studs for about 4 months now without issue.
The lugs have plenty of turns and I don't feel that it is unsafe at all.
Also my car is driven pretty hard and through some pretty rough road conditions.
I don't recommend cutting the OEM studs at all (if you decide to run a bolt-on spacer). If you change wheels or want to return to stock you'll have to replace all the studs which is a PITA.
I agree I run 5mm spacers on the front of my is350 to clear the my big brakes with a +45offset rim in front
I had to do the same thing to get my wheels to fit, cutting down. The studs in the front. I got tired of running +9 in the fronts and just threw on new studs when i went back to stock