06 IS 350 - Rear Wheel Hub Removal Question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
06 IS 350 - Rear Wheel Hub Removal Question
I have everything removed except for the actual wheel hub itself. I have the caliper, rotor, and 4 bolts holding the wheel hub on from behind removed. I went and rented an axle puller from Advanceauto and was able to break the seal on the axle to the wheel hub itself as I can now push the axle with my fingers, so at least I know its not that still binding it up.
I've hit the hub with a sledgehammer to break any tension, I've coated it in penetrating fluid several times. I've hooked the wheel back up and loosely put a few lugs on to try to "pull" the wheel hub off with the tire still attached.
If I have the axle puller hooked up should I just keep tightening and hope it eventually pops out? My main concern was that I'd do damage to the axle if I kept pushing it in. I can give that a try later but was hoping somebody with more knowledge would be able to let me know if that's safe to do or if I have the potential to cause more damage. The last picture is one of a new wheel hub and shows the part that I assume is rusted/corroded into the knuckle part.
I have the factory service manual, and they have you remove the whole wheel knuckle (all the parking brake parts, tie rods, control arms, etc attached and once the whole thing is off then pull the wheel hub, but looking through it all and some other DIY posts I didn't think that was necessary for the repair I'm doing.
Any ideas on what I should try next? Keep trying with the Axle Puller?? Bigger hammer?? Remove it all??
Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/APbui
I've hit the hub with a sledgehammer to break any tension, I've coated it in penetrating fluid several times. I've hooked the wheel back up and loosely put a few lugs on to try to "pull" the wheel hub off with the tire still attached.
If I have the axle puller hooked up should I just keep tightening and hope it eventually pops out? My main concern was that I'd do damage to the axle if I kept pushing it in. I can give that a try later but was hoping somebody with more knowledge would be able to let me know if that's safe to do or if I have the potential to cause more damage. The last picture is one of a new wheel hub and shows the part that I assume is rusted/corroded into the knuckle part.
I have the factory service manual, and they have you remove the whole wheel knuckle (all the parking brake parts, tie rods, control arms, etc attached and once the whole thing is off then pull the wheel hub, but looking through it all and some other DIY posts I didn't think that was necessary for the repair I'm doing.
Any ideas on what I should try next? Keep trying with the Axle Puller?? Bigger hammer?? Remove it all??
Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/APbui
#2
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (2)
When I did mine they were not east to break loose. No not push against the axle. Also make sure you have the wheel speed sensor is disconnected. There is a small dust shield on inside that protects the speed sensor and reluctor ring. The dust shield was somewhat corroded on to the aluminum knuckle making it difficult to break loose. I'm not sure how you got the 4 bolts removed witbout removing dust shield.
I also removed my parking brakes. I'm not entirely sure it was necessary.
I also removed my parking brakes. I'm not entirely sure it was necessary.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Haha, it wasn't the easiest and I should have figured I wasn't doing it the best way, but I've had to remove so many bolts/nuts at weird angles using the oddest techniques I guess I figured this was just another case of that. Once I broke the tension on the bolts with the hex wrench they came out with my fingers pretty easily.
Was removing the parking brake hard? I may remove that too just so I can see in there a little better.
Was removing the parking brake hard? I may remove that too just so I can see in there a little better.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
So my post on Reddit had some replies that suggested I use a slide hammer to get the rest out.
The first set of replies on there had people telling me to just go ahead and pull the whole knuckle arm off the car and press it out. I'm like that might be easy and work for a lot of other cars, but it's not the same on this one.
The first set of replies on there had people telling me to just go ahead and pull the whole knuckle arm off the car and press it out. I'm like that might be easy and work for a lot of other cars, but it's not the same on this one.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just trying to remove the hub, it has a bad bearing. I only got the axle puller initially because I thought the axle stuck in the hub was the only thing holding me back, once I broke the tension on the axle is when I realized the hub was still stuck in there and the axle wasn't the only thing holding it in.
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
Needs more whacks with the BFH! This wouldn't be the first time I've heard of someone having difficulties with removing a 2IS hub after everything holding it on was removed.
Since you'll be tossing the hub anyways, apply some heat to the center section to help break-up any rust that has developed.
Since you'll be tossing the hub anyways, apply some heat to the center section to help break-up any rust that has developed.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm happy to say I just needed a bigger hammer! Technically a 10lb slide hammer, but still by definition a bigger hammer.
It only took 2 or 3 hits to get it off, however I noticed the Penetrating fluid had made its way all around the ring so there's a chance I could have pulled it off with the wheel attached if I had waited a day.
Thanks for the help, my mind was too tired to figure it out but as soon as a slide hammer was suggested I was like OF COURSE!!!
It only took 2 or 3 hits to get it off, however I noticed the Penetrating fluid had made its way all around the ring so there's a chance I could have pulled it off with the wheel attached if I had waited a day.
Thanks for the help, my mind was too tired to figure it out but as soon as a slide hammer was suggested I was like OF COURSE!!!
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Also wanted to add that this definitely fixed my issue. The old wheel hub clearly made a noise once I had it off and turned it by hand. I've read that you can jack up the suspect wheel and it will have some play in it when you wiggle it back and forth but this was not the case for me, it felt solid.
My IS is SO quiet now that I'm sensitive to every other sound it makes haha. I can tell the front bearings could use a replacement and I'd probably do the other side of the rear when I get those. They are nowhere near as loud as the one I replaced was though, I only notice the fronts with the air and radio off.
My IS is SO quiet now that I'm sensitive to every other sound it makes haha. I can tell the front bearings could use a replacement and I'd probably do the other side of the rear when I get those. They are nowhere near as loud as the one I replaced was though, I only notice the fronts with the air and radio off.
#13
Intermediate
So your replacing the wheel hubs as a preventive maintenance item or is it because its starting to make noise because its old?