CyFactor

Well, add me to the list. About to tackle this myself. 2008 IS350 with around 110K. Thanks for the write-up. This should help tremendously.

EDIT: Found a brand new Denso 210-0657 on Amazon Prime for $209. Not bad considering the local Advanced Auto Parts wanted $795 for this same OEM alternator, and it was refurbished.

WhatYaGot

Thanks for the info. I was about to purchase the same one you got on Amazon to keep as a spare, but if you read the details, you'll see it's refurbished.

See5

I did mine today. Ordered Denso 210-0657 from RockAuto, does not look any different than OEM ! Also it is as clean as new (repainted) Save your money!

In my 07 IS350 the only way to get the alternator out without touching the AC lines was to remove the radiator fans. I would recommend the same method and don't see a way else do remove the alternator without possible damage. You wont need to remove anything else besides idler pulley and opening the air filter box to make room for the fans come out. Also you will need to refill the coolant little bit as you will create some mess.

ssblitz

iTrader: (4)

Had to replaced the alternator on my 06 IS350 last month with 82,000 miles on odometer. Got the alternator whine, electrical burnt smell and lost power steering so knew it was time to replace the alternator.

Got a remanufactured Denso brand 210-0657 from Oscaro Parts for $136 plus $60 refunded core charge.

The alternator has been working fine ever since the install.

I was able to remove the alternator without having to remove the ECU box. I followed Bixbylexus tip on removing the A/C compressor and sliding it out of the way. This allowed me to wiggle, rotate, or whatever twist or turns one can think of to remove the alternator from the bottom of the car.

Also the PITA nut that everyone is talking about, it can be removed with ease after the compressor is moved out of the way. You have more room to use an extension with socket and ratchet to remove the nut.

Overall, the installation is not bad. I took some time since I wanted to make everything was done right the first time.

Hope this helps others if they have to replace their alternator.

Izzy350

Thank you so much everyone for your efforts here. Following this thread I did a successful alternator installation on my is350. I was also able to work the old alternator out without removing the coolant reservoir.

jokeefe

By far the most helpful pictures when it comes to removing the infamous support bracket. Thanks!!

markleyj32

great post. this is huge

whitebeast

iTrader: (5)

The only miss information is the hidden nut. It’s 12mm not 10mm like OP said

gr8fulRed

getting really frustrated on this one. How in the hell do you remove the electrical cluster with those white plastic/black clips??! I don't want to destroy them and without proper exact instruction...that's what going to happen because I can't seem to get them to separate. I can't reach that rear bolt from underneath either. So, do I have to remove/move the compressor?! I really do not want to go that route. Can anyone who has successfully replaced the alternator on a GS350 or IS350 tell me how to remove the electrical cluster?? To release the clips?? Any help would be massively appreciated.

gr8fulRed

Ok, with a lot of patience....I was able to remove the ECU and the black box/housing. I was able to remove the pesky rear nut (luckily i can get my hand back there to actually feel it and put the socket directly on it). So, i have all bolts/nuts off, even the small 10mm on the right hand side of alt that holds the electrical wire, unplugged the electrical connection to the alt and disconnected the ground wire to the alt. Now, it will wiggle slightly with force, but I can't seem to get the damn thing out! Any tips?? This has been a major PITA, compared to every other DIY repair I've done....on ANY vehicle.

gr8fulRed

so, after a lot of prying and struggling, I finally got the damn thing to budge and finally got it out. Whew! Got the new back into place surprisingly easily....or so I thought. Now, I can get the rear nut on the stud, I can get the top right (long) 14mm bolt back in, but for the life of me....I can't get the lower left (shorter) 14mm bolt in. I loosen the other two, line up the hole with a same size diameter screw driver....and when I get the bolt started it locks up (like it's being mis-threaded about a 1/3 of the way in. Been f'ing with this for two gotdamn days now. Seriously, no part of this job will just go as planned. I thought once I got the new one into place it would be smooth sailing. No suck luck.

gr8fulRed

Finally got it done. Seems my problem was I got my female threads a bit cross-threaded on the lower left alternator mount. So, I took back out the new alt and I took the longer of the two bolts and basically lined it up straight and threaded it all the way through and back which re-threaded the hole (in a red-neck kind or way, lol). Anyway, after that I was able to get the new alt completely reinstalled. Replaced the drive belt while I was at it. Put it all back together (ECU box, the electrical wires, etc), reconnected the negative battery cable and fired it up. All seems fine, but I'm going to take it for a drive and recharge up the battery that had gotten low due to the failing alternator. HOPEFULLY....this job is done, because after this LONG weekend of jacking with it (with lots of breaks in between to rest my lower back) I'm ready to have this one behind me!! Whew!!

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Let us know if any codes pop up. Many often pull a wire out of a cam sensor when not loosening enough of the engine harness above the ALT.

gr8fulRed

No codes. Everything appears to be fine.

SparksLex

Hey guys, I've got a day to knock this out from here - at the point where you remove the bracket behind the alternator. Truly, it took me a solid 25 minutes to even identify the thing, but I realized that I chose to not remove the ECU box after reading about how a few folks completed this task without doing so.

For those that didn't remove the A/C Compressor or ECU, what sort of wizardry did you perform? If you're not a wizard, then you must be Stretch Armstrong or Mr. Fantastic? My forearms are pretty skinny and I consider myself lanky. I have no idea how anyone could've gotten down there. There's quite a bit of wiring in the way. This is my first time wrenching on this car so perhaps, saying the need to move wiring around would've felt redundant for those that have already worked on the car several times already. For anyone that's about to embark on this task, I truly cant see how this is even possible without removal of the ECU or A/C Compressor.

I'm freaking out a bit because I've already dropped $150 on a rental for the past week, waiting for the replacement alternator to arrive today, which it thankfully did. So once again, if I remove the ECU box, will I be good to go? I think/hope so...