speeddem0n

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. I’ve seen that one many times but was wondering is it worth the extra money as opposed to all the other cheaper options people have been talking about?

XSV

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't risk running cheap eBay OCCs. Buy something reputable.

leoshueh

Soon after cleaning the carbon build-up on my IS250 intake valves and manifold, I installed an OCC purchased from Taobao. The OCC has a sintering copper baffle and it's easy to drain oil from the OCC by turning the lever of the valve below. I bent the brackets and attached them to the cover of engine ECU box to fit my needs. The angled nozzles can be turn depending on your layout. I turn the nozzles backward and use right-angled couplers to redirect the two hoses straight to the PCV valve and intake manifold. Thus I don't have to slice off a piece of the plastic engine cover to make way for the hoses.








This is the baffle made of sintering copper, looks like a rigid metal sponge:

ostneb

Has anyone cleaned their engine of carbon buildup, installed catch can then after 30k+ miles, checked to see how much carbon buildup there has been? This would seem like a surefire way to determine whether or not the OCC's work and to what extent they work. Thanks!

Viru

Did we ever get an answer to this question? About to purchase/install soon, and wondering if I need 2 cans, or maybe a single 4 port can.

Texas149

Need to start reading at Post #1 I reckon......

svnsales

Catch can installed - took just about an hour! Used the ideas posted in this thread, combined with my favorite engineering principle of keeping things simple, and did the following:

1. Disconnect and remove factory PCV hose
2. Mount catch can to coolant reservoir bolt using a corner brace
3. Connect heat-resistant vinyl tubing from PCV outlet to catch can inlet, and catch can outlet to PCV inlet
4. You're done!

Went with clear hoses so I could observe the catch can effectiveness at a glance, and have a visual wear indicator for the hoses. As you can see, there's a significant difference in just 6 days of use! There is oil on the dipstick, too, so I'll check out the contents of the can next time I get gas.


Hoses running directly to PCV outlet/inlet - existing PCV hose can be removed.

Mounted using a 1.5" corner brace under the coolant reservoir bolt. Needed to bore out this hole a little to fit the 10mm bolt, but it's quite sturdy. I tested with some enthusiastic driving

Catch can suspended in one of the few open spaces in this engine bay. Enough room to reach around and unscrew the can for emptying out.

ospuddy

Thanks everyone for your contributions to this thread. Here's my idea for a mounting bracket for mounting the catch can using the bolt holding down the coolant reservoir. I use a T bracket with one arm of the T bent 90 degrees. This is a more stable brace as the other two arms pushes against the coolant tank so the brace would not rotate. I'm a newbie here. =)

svnsales

Another very clever solution!

ospuddy

Thanks to all of you who have contributed to this thread. Because of your contributions, I was able to install a catch can in my IS250.

Here are my suggestions:
1. I used a T bracket with one arm bent 90 degrees to mount my catch can to the coolant reservoir.
2. Remove the cold start fuel injector whole with the fuel line connected to prevent fuel leak, fuel spray, and getting air into your fuel system.
3. Put a T connect in the line going from the catch can back into the intake manifold. Use this connector to inject your favorite valve cleaner. Cap it off when not in use.
4. Optional: Use this opportunity to replace your PCV valve. Use Toyota/Lexus OEM part. I paid about $9 shipping included. (19mm clawfoot tool required.)

I'm a newbie. This is my 2nd post.

Thanks everybody! Job done! Drive test was good!


Can is mounted on coolant reservoir.

Need an extended M6 bolt 2.5 cm, one M6 lock washer and 3 washers to lift bracket above reservoir ledge.

Close up of how catch can is mounted on coolant reservoir.

Remove cold start fuel injector and wrap it in a clean rag.

Might as well replace the PCV valve.

New PCV valve vs old at 43,000 miles.

Put a T connector on the return to intake so you can inject valve cleaner.

ospuddy

Update on the install:

Noticed the PCV hose is kinked due to a sharp bend. Rerouted the hose, but bend still affects the inner cross-section. Placed a 5/16 outer diameter spring into hose as a stent to keep the hose from collapsing.

I also made an extension/adapter to feed the valve cleaner into the T terminal that's connected to line that goes to the intake manifold. Now I can spray while sitting in the car and monitoring the RPM and temperature.

Thanks, everyone.


PVC hose collapses due to bend.

Put a 5/16 outer diameter spring into the hose.

Spring acts as a stent to keep the hose from collapsing. The friction of the bend holds spring in place.

Use a fuel line 3mm ID and 9mm OD mated to a 3/8" end to feed valve cleaner into T connector that goes to the intake manifold.

ospuddy

Update: I added a 2nd catch can (baffled with 50-micron bronze filter) in series with the 1st catch can (baffled with stainless steel scrubber).
Update: I cut off a piece of the straw from the spray can and inserted into the end of the fuel line to serve as an atomizer (for valve cleaning).

I hope after adding these catch cans and cleaning the valve with the valve cleaner it would help keep the engine clean.


Two catch cans in series. Catch Can 1: Baffled with stainless steel scrubber (mounted on coolant reservoir). Catch Can 2: Baffled with 50-micron bronze filter (mounted on electrical ground bolt near strut tower).

How it looks with engine cover on.

Valve cleaner spray can connected to 3mm ID 9mm OD fuel line. 9mm OD fuel line adapted to vacuum port with short stretch of 3/8" fuel hose. A small cut-off piece of the straw from the can is inserted at the end to serve as an atomizer.

Update: How much gunk the 1st catch can caught in 767 miles

Gunk in Catch Can 1 after 767 miles.

Update: GDI Intake Valve Cleaner. The Technical Support Staff at CRC tells me that the red hose that I made for valve cleaning may not atomize properly. They recommend that I spray from the can directly into the vacuum port. I made a rig to spray directly into the vacuum port, but controlled from the driver's seat.


I modified a "Reach 'n Spray" so the trigger is operated by a bicycle derailleur cable.

The trigger is operated from the driver's seat by squeezing the bicycle brake lever.

Update: 2nd Catch Can Didn't Catch Any Measurable Oil after 750 miles


Second catch can didn't catch any measurable blow-by after 750 miles.

UPDATE: Vacuum Port for Top Cleaning
For better distribution of cleaning solution to all cylinders, use the EVAP port or the PCV port on the air surge tank (upper intake manifold) to shoot in your cleaner. The Toyota ACIS (Acoustic Control Induction System) divides the air intake into upper and lower paths. You want to shoot the cleaning solution before the divide. Only the EVAP and PCV ports are before the divide. All other ports connect to the upper path, so the lower path is not cleaned.



Green lines indicate the hoses for the EVAP and PCV ports. Shoot your cleaner through one of these ports.

UPDATE VALVE CLEANING Through EVAP Port: 1) Inject through EVAP port. 2) Bypass EVAP VSV to UNUSED vacuum port via 5/16" hose.
Here's the instruction:
1. Warm up the engine
2. Spray in 1-second bursts and 1-second rests while keeping RPM at 2,000 until can is empty
3. Rev engine to 3,000 rpm 3 times, then idle for 1 minute
4. Shut engine off and wait 1 hour
5. Start engine, rev engine to 3,000 rpm a few times to clear out excess, and drive at highway speed for at least 10 minutes.

Valve cleaning with CRC IVD Valve Cleaner. Inject through EVAP port. Temporary bypass from EVAP VSV to UNUSED vacuum port with 5/16" hose.

Pilot1

do I disconnect hose above where it says EVAP and spray into the fitting above the EVAP letters or...?

smitty2919

Good info. I'm about to change the plugs for the first time owning our 250. I'll most likely take the lower intake off too to see the condition of the valves if I'm that far into the motor.

This PCV/EVAP valve cleaning spray may be a good thing to do every oil change.

Jeeves250

Hey! I just thought I'd share what I did on my 250 with anyone that was thinking of installing a catch can. I ordered the RR Racing catch can for the ISF, which is the one that was recommended by RR Racing for my car. They were supposed to engineer a bracket that would fit the 250, but I guess those plans fell through.

Sidebar: if this should be its own thread, please feel free to say so, and I'll duplicate it somewhere else in the forums.

Their people recommend doing the bolt the can to the engine cover method, but I personally think the can should have a more solid mounting point, and I'm not afraid to get a little greasy, so I started to poke around over a few months to see if I could find a better place to put it.

After some analysis and cardboard-assisted design, I determined that the left frame leg behind the radiator would be the best place to put it, mounted in some rivnuts. Roughly, this is what I did:

1) Cut the RR Racing-supplied bracket on the diagonal, maintaining the original bolt holes, to clear the AC lines. Please note that the stainless used on this bracket is very hard, and super thick. You will need an angle grinder or something stronger and less chaotic to cut it, then file the edges so you don't slice yourself or the AC lines.
2) Remove the undertray on your car. You will be working on this from underneath.
3) Mount the catch can to the bracket, and put a short length of the air line into the can, one 90-degree elbow, and more air line in that elbow. You will be using these to mark the holes for the rivnuts.
and place them along the frame rail so that they clear the AC lines and the radiator fan housing. Make sure the assembly is level, then use the original bolt hole that's nearest the radiator to mark its position on the frame rail.
4) Remove the bracket and catch can assembly from that area and mark another hole further back on the bracket (like 3-4 cm so it will be stable) and mark a correspondinghole on the frame rail.
5) Drill out the two holes you've marked, clean up the edges, and prime/paint the holes to prevent corrosion. Lithium grease will work in a pinch. I also used the opportunity to shoot the rail full of Krown T40.
6) Drill the second hole into the vertical portion on the RR Racing bracket. This will be extremely difficult without a drill press, or at least a vice and a really good drill bit. Be sure to centre punch the hole before your drilling begins.
7) Mount the rivnuts in the frame. I made sure I was using some M6 rivnuts to keep the car metric. I bought some stainless hex head M6 bolts from Canadian Tire to mount the bracket with (or maybe they came with the catch can? I forget now. It's been a few months!
8) Route the inlet-side blue air line up to the back of the engine along the cable run that goes under the loom that goes to the front fuse box behind the windshield washer reservoir filler neck.
9) Remove the breather hose from the PCV valve, and disconnect the other end from the surge tank (also known as an intake plenum by some folks - it's the big black plastic thing that goes to the lower intake manifold). Set it aside somewhere safe if you want to be able to return the car to its stock configuration. You will not be reusing it.
10) Connect a small length of fuel line to the PCV and route it over the cold start fuel line, then behind the banjo bolt for the cold start injector; I believe 3/8" inner diameter is what I used, also bought at Canadian Tire. You will need about 6" or so to connect to the PCV on one end, then to a coupler that goes into the blue air line supplied with the bracket. I reused some metal hydraulic tubing I happened to have spare that had a bulge that would provide a seal in the rubber fuel line. You will have to trim the blue line so that it will just meet the coupler from the rubber hose. For reference, I think I used about 6" of rubber fuel hose. The blue air line will be the inlet that you've already connected up from the catch can down on the frame. secure both with clamps. Note: this doesn't provide a perfect seal on the blue air line side; the catch can kit comes with a section of 1/2" rubber fuel hose that serves as a couple for the return that I am going to try and duplicate to provide a perfect seal at some point. I have to do some research to see about fixing that up properly. I may just clean it up, and use epoxy.
11) Use some more fuel hose to connect to the surge tank and bring it around over the cold start fuel line, under the banjo bolt, and over the grey wiring loom to meet the inlet run you just installed, and set it aside.
12) Connect a short section of blue air line to the return on the catch can, to an elbow, and then to the rest of the blue air line that came with the kit, and route it back up alongside the inlet run to the can back as far as it will go.
13) Connect the converter that came with the kit (looks like a mechanic's vape rig) to the blue air line, and trim the rubber fuel hose that goes back into the surge tank so that it neatly meets and connects to the converter.
14) Success!

I've been running this setup for months, and it's been fine. I've only had to empty it twice in about 7 months, and even then, it was never more than 60mL or so. You should be fine if you drain the catch can every time you do an oil change. The only downside is it's really only accessible from the bottom, so you will have to remove the belly tray every time, but that honestly just makes oil changes a lot less fussy, and you can inspect more of the engine to make sure all is well.

Bracket location without catch can.

Catch can installed on bracket, inlet and outlet hoses shown.

Location of rivnuts on the frame rail.

System diagram

Bracket location, from below.