Newbie needs help [car purchase questions]
#1
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Newbie needs help [car purchase questions]
Hi all,
I am currently looking for a 2012 is250 in socal.
does anyone familiar with the OTD price for the is250 base?
I saw KBB saying $33,000 is the fair price.
Does that come with the 18" rims?
What package can be eliminated from the car to save money?
How to negotiate with the dealer?
Thanks much for any of the suggestions.
Appreciate that!!!
I am currently looking for a 2012 is250 in socal.
does anyone familiar with the OTD price for the is250 base?
I saw KBB saying $33,000 is the fair price.
Does that come with the 18" rims?
What package can be eliminated from the car to save money?
How to negotiate with the dealer?
Thanks much for any of the suggestions.
Appreciate that!!!
#2
Lexus Test Driver
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ease-read.html
Refer to the second section. Helped us all. Some more than others...
Refer to the second section. Helped us all. Some more than others...
#3
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ease-read.html
Refer to the second section. Helped us all. Some more than others...
Refer to the second section. Helped us all. Some more than others...
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Also go to Edmunds.com. Learn what the invoice price is and what programs/incentives Lexus is offering. Then, search their forums and find out what the IS has been selling for in your area. Use that as a target.
Also, when you are ready to buy, email all local dealers with your requirements (lowest price, color, options, etc). When you pit them against each other, the price drops FAST.
Lastly, never negotiate off of sticker, but always negotiate off the invoice. The IS is an old car now, so you should be able to get it for well below invoice.
Good luck!
Also, when you are ready to buy, email all local dealers with your requirements (lowest price, color, options, etc). When you pit them against each other, the price drops FAST.
Lastly, never negotiate off of sticker, but always negotiate off the invoice. The IS is an old car now, so you should be able to get it for well below invoice.
Good luck!
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Also go to Edmunds.com. Learn what the invoice price is and what programs/incentives Lexus is offering. Then, search their forums and find out what the IS has been selling for in your area. Use that as a target.
Also, when you are ready to buy, email all local dealers with your requirements (lowest price, color, options, etc). When you pit them against each other, the price drops FAST.
Lastly, never negotiate off of sticker, but always negotiate off the invoice. The IS is an old car now, so you should be able to get it for well below invoice.
Good luck!
Also, when you are ready to buy, email all local dealers with your requirements (lowest price, color, options, etc). When you pit them against each other, the price drops FAST.
Lastly, never negotiate off of sticker, but always negotiate off the invoice. The IS is an old car now, so you should be able to get it for well below invoice.
Good luck!
I went to Edmund, but couldnot find anything useful in their forum.
I also emailed local dealer, but they are not willing to give OTD price in email, always ask me to call them and go check out the car, which is kind of annoying.
Any good strategy on negotiating the invoice?
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks for all the suggestions!!!
I went to Edmund, but couldnot find anything useful in their forum.
I also emailed local dealer, but they are not willing to give OTD price in email, always ask me to call them and go check out the car, which is kind of annoying.
Any good strategy on negotiating the invoice?
I went to Edmund, but couldnot find anything useful in their forum.
I also emailed local dealer, but they are not willing to give OTD price in email, always ask me to call them and go check out the car, which is kind of annoying.
Any good strategy on negotiating the invoice?
Not sure how you worded your emails, but when I sent mine, I said this is what I want to pay a month, this is how much down, and this is the color and options I want. I knew the sticker, the invoice, and what incentives were current. I got a lot of reponses back, with some saying to come in to talk, or I think we can do that, to I WILL do that deal, to I will do that deal but I don't have the car. I narrowed it down to two different dealers who had the same car, but one would guarantee it and the other one would not. Confirmed through a phone call, and that was it. Picked up the car the next day and signed the papers.
Maybe they are less open today, but I don't see why they would not be if you were absolutely ready to buy right now.
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#8
Hey man,
FYI, for the LA area, here's a little insight in a fancy graph on base 250's.
shoot me a zip and I'll look this up in my system and give you more detailed results - but it honestly won't change much, these are local results for downtown LA, and they're varied by about $5 from the national average
hope this helps, welcome to CL
that's for manual too, if you can find one. let me know if you're going auto.
FYI, for the LA area, here's a little insight in a fancy graph on base 250's.
shoot me a zip and I'll look this up in my system and give you more detailed results - but it honestly won't change much, these are local results for downtown LA, and they're varied by about $5 from the national average
hope this helps, welcome to CL
that's for manual too, if you can find one. let me know if you're going auto.
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#10
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Everything I wrote was what I did in 2008 to lease my IS in SoCal. At Edmunds, it should be at "Town Square," unless they've changed their site. People in there, from SoCal were listing what they had just paid for their IS.
Not sure how you worded your emails, but when I sent mine, I said this is what I want to pay a month, this is how much down, and this is the color and options I want. I knew the sticker, the invoice, and what incentives were current. I got a lot of reponses back, with some saying to come in to talk, or I think we can do that, to I WILL do that deal, to I will do that deal but I don't have the car. I narrowed it down to two different dealers who had the same car, but one would guarantee it and the other one would not. Confirmed through a phone call, and that was it. Picked up the car the next day and signed the papers.
Maybe they are less open today, but I don't see why they would not be if you were absolutely ready to buy right now.
Not sure how you worded your emails, but when I sent mine, I said this is what I want to pay a month, this is how much down, and this is the color and options I want. I knew the sticker, the invoice, and what incentives were current. I got a lot of reponses back, with some saying to come in to talk, or I think we can do that, to I WILL do that deal, to I will do that deal but I don't have the car. I narrowed it down to two different dealers who had the same car, but one would guarantee it and the other one would not. Confirmed through a phone call, and that was it. Picked up the car the next day and signed the papers.
Maybe they are less open today, but I don't see why they would not be if you were absolutely ready to buy right now.
Thanks in advance!
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Hey man,
FYI, for the LA area, here's a little insight in a fancy graph on base 250's.
shoot me a zip and I'll look this up in my system and give you more detailed results - but it honestly won't change much, these are local results for downtown LA, and they're varied by about $5 from the national average
hope this helps, welcome to CL
that's for manual too, if you can find one. let me know if you're going auto.
FYI, for the LA area, here's a little insight in a fancy graph on base 250's.
shoot me a zip and I'll look this up in my system and give you more detailed results - but it honestly won't change much, these are local results for downtown LA, and they're varied by about $5 from the national average
hope this helps, welcome to CL
that's for manual too, if you can find one. let me know if you're going auto.
I currently contacted couple dealers in town, looks like they are not able to offer such target price.
I would like Obsidian, black interior, 18" 5spokes rims and rear spoiler, that is it.
Please advise.
Last edited by yamaturkey; 06-06-12 at 11:17 PM.
#12
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Markup of Lexus is about 8.5% of cost which would be like the MSRP. If you can play with the numbers, then it gives you can idea of what you could try to offer.
Simply contacting the dealers would likely would say no. You would have to negotiate there in person if you are serious about trying get the car.
Simply contacting the dealers would likely would say no. You would have to negotiate there in person if you are serious about trying get the car.
Last edited by Sango; 06-07-12 at 12:27 AM.
#13
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I bought my car almost entirely over the internet and phone after I decided on an IS250. If they were unwilling to quote a price I simply let them walk. In SoCal there are a dozen dealers in a 50 mile radius of where I live. I was very exact in my email about what I wanted and negotiated based on OTD. My attitude was I don't care how you make this sausage I just donn't want any surprises when I try to buy it. I had some fairly useless conversations with people that swore they could beat any deal but clammed up when I got into hard numbers (looking at YOU Longo). I got 5 quotes over email, went into 2 dealerships (only left because the first guy tried to last minute 4-square me, friggin moron). All in all, it took about 3 weeks and 3 trips to dealerships. I saved a lot of gas and time, it's just the slow play.
I ended up with what seemed to be an "average" deal for the time. I got a new 2007 BSP with premium pack non-nav non-ML for 33K OTD on a car with an MSRP of $35.5K. This was "base" for SoCal since you can't avoid premium pack out here (wood trim, HIDs, heated/cooled seats, etc.) without special ordering AFAIK.
Your build should be fairly common so your negotiating leverage is strong.
I ended up with what seemed to be an "average" deal for the time. I got a new 2007 BSP with premium pack non-nav non-ML for 33K OTD on a car with an MSRP of $35.5K. This was "base" for SoCal since you can't avoid premium pack out here (wood trim, HIDs, heated/cooled seats, etc.) without special ordering AFAIK.
Your build should be fairly common so your negotiating leverage is strong.
#14
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iTrader: (1)
I bought my car almost entirely over the internet and phone after I decided on an IS250. If they were unwilling to quote a price I simply let them walk. In SoCal there are a dozen dealers in a 50 mile radius of where I live. I was very exact in my email about what I wanted and negotiated based on OTD. My attitude was I don't care how you make this sausage I just donn't want any surprises when I try to buy it. I had some fairly useless conversations with people that swore they could beat any deal but clammed up when I got into hard numbers (looking at YOU Longo). I got 5 quotes over email, went into 2 dealerships (only left because the first guy tried to last minute 4-square me, friggin moron). All in all, it took about 3 weeks and 3 trips to dealerships. I saved a lot of gas and time, it's just the slow play.
I ended up with what seemed to be an "average" deal for the time. I got a new 2007 BSP with premium pack non-nav non-ML for 33K OTD on a car with an MSRP of $35.5K. This was "base" for SoCal since you can't avoid premium pack out here (wood trim, HIDs, heated/cooled seats, etc.) without special ordering AFAIK.
Your build should be fairly common so your negotiating leverage is strong.
I ended up with what seemed to be an "average" deal for the time. I got a new 2007 BSP with premium pack non-nav non-ML for 33K OTD on a car with an MSRP of $35.5K. This was "base" for SoCal since you can't avoid premium pack out here (wood trim, HIDs, heated/cooled seats, etc.) without special ordering AFAIK.
Your build should be fairly common so your negotiating leverage is strong.
Quick correction- Premium package does not include HIDs.
Premium is the upgraded seats plus woodgrain, that's it.
(doesn't mean your region didn't tend to order cars with premium AND HIDs (which were available as a standalone option from 2007 forward)
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