I have. My DB8’s got ****ed and I had to replace it with OEM ones.

 

No one think that it could be the radiator? might clog?

 

Though you have "alot" of miles...it is not enough for me to see needing a new radiator, fans, or even hoses. Like what others suggested, I'd personally replace the water pump/thermostat/radiator cap. Very common vehicle items to go bad during normal driving conditions throughout the years. Also, I've read in the owners manual that Lexus uses a special coolant with enzymes or something special...so I'd replace the lost fluid with only OEM pink.

GL, and report back afterwards!

 

+1.

Except replace in opposite order since it's the cheapest.
Cap-Tstat-Pump

Why pay $$$ if it's fixed by $?

 

^^ that is also a possibility. but im thinking its the heads.

 

I highly doubt its the head or head gasket especially since he has not mentioned any lack of performance from the engine.

OP: Look under your oil cap and your oil dipstick for signs of a milkshake like substance. If you do than you probably have a blown head gasket.

 

Thanks sir. I did that and no milky white in oil. I'm just gonna replace those three. Pump therm and cap. I will def let you guys know the outcome of this. And yes no loss of power still pulls.

 

UPDATE!!!!! Ok so I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and cap. Ran the car for 25-40 minutes with AC on sittin still at high noon and..........No more problems. So if you guys see pink fluid around the front of your engine it's the water pump. I just decided to change all three since it was in regards to problem anyways. Thanks for all that put their inputs in.

 

The ideal way is to run the car with the heater on to bleed the system. However since these cars the automatic climate feature I don't think it's much of an issue as the system utilizes the heather and a/c to maintain the temperature at your set point.

 

 

The heater in your car works by taking the hot coolant to warm up a heater core in your dash. In older car this in controlled by a manual valve (remember the numb with the red/blue dial on it) when you move that it opens the valve letting warm water.

So to properly bleed the cooling system in those type of cars it's recommended you turn the heater on to full so the coolant circulates the entire system and making sure there are no trapped air bubbles
.

 

The way I purge the cooling system in my Civic is park the front/engine bay on an incline, start up the car, put down a drop pan to catch coolant/water, and remove the radiator cap. I set the HVAC controls 3/4ths full on the heat. Wait till the car warms up and the fans will kick on, you should see the coolant level drop. Add more coolant. In between the fan kicking in you'll see bubbles. After the fan kicks on for the third time, top off the coolant, and cap it.

Bam, bled cooling system.

 

What ended up happening?? I'm fighting the same issue. Temp will slowly climb, once it gets in red. It drops to normal temp. I replaced my thermo, since it WAS bad. Ever since I could t keep anything in my reserve. Instantly kicks out everything, I'm assuming due to back pressure. It didn't over heat for a solid week. Now I'm overheating. 😡😡

 

You replace water pump yourself? I wonder how much for labors at the shop.

 

It gets quite expensive I've heard anywhere from $500 to $1000 for labor depending on the shop