IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Seafoam for the 4GR-FSE

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Old 05-26-10, 10:16 AM
  #16  
juxtapose
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Originally Posted by Och
Inspect your intake chamber first - disassemble the air intake and look down the throttle body. If it has excess carbon deposits, then you can run seafoam, or better yet, opt for one of these run-rite services that many auto repair shops offer. There's a local R&S Strauss store that offers this service, they hook up a solution similar to seafoam to one of your vacuum lines, and slowly run it though for about 30 minutes. It works better than seafoam, and theres less chance of fouling your spark plugs or O2 sensors. After I done this service on my 3UZ, the intake chamber was clean enough to eat out of.
There's a R&S strauss store on nothern blvd by bayside. is that where you got your service done och? how much did it cost?
Old 01-27-11, 05:15 PM
  #17  
Fraserjohn
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Default Water clean engine

Can you share in detail how you used water to clean your engine. I want to do it but I am not sure what is the right way to do it.
My car has a Toyota 1MZFE engine
Thanks a lot
Old 01-28-11, 11:39 AM
  #18  
clubfoot
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Just be careful with using water as you want to make sure it turns into steam,....make sure the engine is fully warmed up otherwise if you get too much water in too quickly it "may" hydro lock!

Water works great,...use a vacuum hose off the intake and let it draw the water from the container,...the thermal shock from change in state will break up the carbon in the cylinder head. But,...I don't think it will clean the area behind the valves if you're using port injection! (not enough heat), but the direct injection should get cleaned pretty good.
That's where the injector cleaning services may come in handy for the port injectors and the back of the valves and seats.
Old 01-28-11, 11:40 PM
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Jetfire
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drive the car around everywhere for at least half an hour to make sure everything is hot and warmed up.

i used hot distilled water and used a basketball pump needle connected to a clear plastic tubing. connected to the vacuum. kept revs above 3000rpm. used about 2litres(1/2 gallon) of water. afterwards, drove again for over half an hour to boil out any water that may be in the water.

mine is just the summary, but you can google for more info.
Old 07-17-18, 08:53 PM
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bryceis250
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Originally Posted by Jetfire
water decarbonization works better than sea foam and it costs next to nothing for distilled water.

seafoam is just a smoke show with solvents to make it seem like it's doing something.
spray distilled water into the intake? ok i finshed reading the thread...so i dont need to inject it per se, i just need to have a glass of water and a vacuum hose and the motor will suck it in by itself?

Last edited by bryceis250; 07-17-18 at 09:01 PM.
Old 07-17-18, 09:40 PM
  #21  
primavera
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Originally Posted by bryceis250
spray distilled water into the intake? ok i finshed reading the thread...so i dont need to inject it per se, i just need to have a glass of water and a vacuum hose and the motor will suck it in by itself?
Follow this method:

Old 07-17-18, 11:09 PM
  #22  
Rrotz
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I would say, do THROUGHOUT research before sucking water into your intake!

I am interested in Seafoam. I have a 2008 IS350 with 109,000mi that I just got. I'm not sure how hard it was driven before but she still gets up and goes but I don't think it would hurt anything to run a can of Seafoam thru the gas tank first, then try sucking a can thru the intake and lastly adding a can to the oil before the next oil change.

I just don't know when I should add some to the gas tank, at a quarter tank so the concentration is higher? Do I have to follow the directions of a third in the gas tank, a third in the oil and a third up the intake or just throw a full can in each?
Old 07-22-18, 09:25 AM
  #23  
NPHendo42
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Default Sea foam is combustible

I Sea foam my ex gfs is250 every 2 to 3 months. Otherwise it starts running a little rough. The only real way to prevent the carbon build up is to catch the blow by with an oil catch can. I wouldn't recommend using water if you haven't used SeaFoam before. Water isn't combustible, Sea foam is.. so if you don't want to risk hydro locking your motor I suggest spending money on a can. Only administer through the brake booster vacuum line and the pcv line behind the intake on left side ( pain in the ***). It'll throw a VSC malfunction light but that goes away after driving it for a bit. Alternate between the two vaccum lines. Stab the throttle from idle to wOt quickly. Don't redline it. When the smoke starts to dissipate, go drive the car and do a few WOT pulls. Works every time and runs ****
If you have never sea foamed and have a ton of miles. Then you should pull the upper plenum and pour the sea foam into each Chamber. Let it sit for 4 hours at least(I did hers overnight the first time) re assemble and start it. Be forewarned.. you won't be able to see your hand in front of your face...
Old 07-23-18, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by NPHendo42
I Sea foam my ex gfs is250 every 2 to 3 months. Otherwise it starts running a little rough. The only real way to prevent the carbon build up is to catch the blow by with an oil catch can. I wouldn't recommend using water if you haven't used SeaFoam before. Water isn't combustible, Sea foam is.. so if you don't want to risk hydro locking your motor I suggest spending money on a can. Only administer through the brake booster vacuum line and the pcv line behind the intake on left side ( pain in the ***). It'll throw a VSC malfunction light but that goes away after driving it for a bit. Alternate between the two vaccum lines. Stab the throttle from idle to wOt quickly. Don't redline it. When the smoke starts to dissipate, go drive the car and do a few WOT pulls. Works every time and runs ****
If you have never sea foamed and have a ton of miles. Then you should pull the upper plenum and pour the sea foam into each Chamber. Let it sit for 4 hours at least(I did hers overnight the first time) re assemble and start it. Be forewarned.. you won't be able to see your hand in front of your face...
When you put the seafoam in after taking off the upper plenum, how do you know which valves are open and which ones are closed? Wouldnt that allow at least one pair of valves, if not two to leak seafoam into the engine?
Old 07-23-18, 09:57 PM
  #25  
bryceis250
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Originally Posted by NPHendo42
I Sea foam my ex gfs is250 every 2 to 3 months. Otherwise it starts running a little rough. The only real way to prevent the carbon build up is to catch the blow by with an oil catch can. I wouldn't recommend using water if you haven't used SeaFoam before. Water isn't combustible, Sea foam is.. so if you don't want to risk hydro locking your motor I suggest spending money on a can. Only administer through the brake booster vacuum line and the pcv line behind the intake on left side ( pain in the ***). It'll throw a VSC malfunction light but that goes away after driving it for a bit. Alternate between the two vaccum lines. Stab the throttle from idle to wOt quickly. Don't redline it. When the smoke starts to dissipate, go drive the car and do a few WOT pulls. Works every time and runs ****
If you have never sea foamed and have a ton of miles. Then you should pull the upper plenum and pour the sea foam into each Chamber. Let it sit for 4 hours at least(I did hers overnight the first time) re assemble and start it. Be forewarned.. you won't be able to see your hand in front of your face...
man, see you cant take your first few answers on something as gospel. could you say more about why you should only seafoam through the brake booster and PCV line? ? i seafoamed once and it was through the pcv valve i only got white smoke for a quick 3 seconds at about 3/4 of the way through the bottle. also, theres another member of CLforum who says dont use seafoam its designed for marine engines. so confusing. and everyone sounds so knowledgeable its hard to find the line between fact and preference! guess i just cant visualize pouring the stuff into the upper plenum and letting it soak? it will just stay there and not drip down into the engine?ok ill do it this way. thanks!

Last edited by bryceis250; 07-23-18 at 10:36 PM. Reason: change
Old 07-24-18, 12:47 PM
  #26  
NPHendo42
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Originally Posted by bryceis250
man, see you cant take your first few answers on something as gospel. could you say more about why you should only seafoam through the brake booster and PCV line? ? i seafoamed once and it was through the pcv valve i only got white smoke for a quick 3 seconds at about 3/4 of the way through the bottle. also, theres another member of CLforum who says dont use seafoam its designed for marine engines. so confusing. and everyone sounds so knowledgeable its hard to find the line between fact and preference! guess i just cant visualize pouring the stuff into the upper plenum and letting it soak? it will just stay there and not drip down into the engine?ok ill do it this way. thanks!
You don't want to get any on the AFM sensor. I've sea foamed countless engines and sware by the stuff. Everyone's got their own opinion. Mines from experience. Take it as is for face value. But the 4gr/2gr it's a necessity. Until you get an oil catch, carbon build up is inevitable for these motors. The comp ratio is so high oil blow by is inevitable.
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Old 07-24-18, 12:49 PM
  #27  
NPHendo42
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Originally Posted by NPHendo42
You don't want to get any on the AFM sensor. I've sea foamed countless engines and sware by the stuff. Everyone's got their own opinion. Mines from experience. Take it as is for face value. But the 4gr/2gr it's a necessity. Until you get an oil catch, carbon build up is inevitable for these motors. The comp ratio is so high oil blow by is inevitable.
an d wtf is the difference between a marine e engine and on road vehicle? Sounds like there's a problem with the gasket between the pedal and steering wheel. ..
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Old 07-25-18, 07:57 PM
  #28  
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I think you should consider cleaning your intake manifold, add a catch can and then seafoam for regular maintenance to slow the carbon build up. I havent heard many people reversing carbon build up with seafoam.
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Old 07-30-18, 09:20 PM
  #29  
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The problem is cheap gas and high v compression. The carbon build up is on the rings. Toyota issued a TSB and they literally sea foam your car with Toyotas "sea foam". And the repair calls for removal of plenum and pour into each intake chamber. Sit for 4 hours and run car to burn off residual. Sea foam is amazing for cleaning valves and the tops of pistons. Based on that I'd say yes sea foam dissolves carbon build up very well

Last edited by NPHendo42; 07-30-18 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 07-30-18, 10:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by NPHendo42
The problem is cheap gas and high v compression. The carbon build up is on the rings. Toyota issued a TSB and they literally sea foam your car with Toyotas "sea foam". And the repair calls for removal of plenum and pour into each intake chamber. Sit for 4 hours and run car to burn off residual. Sea foam is amazing for cleaning valves and the tops of pistons. Based on that I'd say yes sea foam dissolves carbon build up very well
removal of the plenum is a pain in the *** form the videos i just watched. guess if thats whats needed to do it right its got to be done. wonder what the stealership charges for this...


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