What happens if I dont change my oil filter...
01-15-10, 04:04 PM
#31
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I think the incredible hulk did my last oil change... because I cannot get the filter housing loose.
I didn't just go out there and "give it a shot" either... I've literally been attempting to open this filter housing for 3 hours. Nothing I used could get it to budge.
#1 - "F" wrench from autozone, (POS I know). Broke within 1 minute.
#2,3,4 - Another generic 64mm wrench. I actually bought three just in case any broke... they all did. Well 1 broke and the other two just stretched out and will spin around the filter with any pressure.
#5 - Strap oil filter wrench... not budging.
Wtf? At this point I've put 200 scratched in the housing, it's likely stripped to hell and back as well. Very disappointing, but after about 2 hours I just lost it and tried 10 times in a row to get it off with a wrench I knew was slipping.
I know I need a SST or TOY640; however, unfortunately it will take days to ship to me... so I'd like a quick option (although at this point, I don't know if it exists). I read lots of DIYs, threads, FAQs and while I grasped that it would be difficult to get off... I can't find anyone mentioning this kind of hell.
So I started at 3:30pm, its now 6:30pm and all I have is an undrive-able car with no oil sitting on jackstands
I didn't just go out there and "give it a shot" either... I've literally been attempting to open this filter housing for 3 hours. Nothing I used could get it to budge.
#1 - "F" wrench from autozone, (POS I know). Broke within 1 minute.
#2,3,4 - Another generic 64mm wrench. I actually bought three just in case any broke... they all did. Well 1 broke and the other two just stretched out and will spin around the filter with any pressure.
#5 - Strap oil filter wrench... not budging.
Wtf? At this point I've put 200 scratched in the housing, it's likely stripped to hell and back as well. Very disappointing, but after about 2 hours I just lost it and tried 10 times in a row to get it off with a wrench I knew was slipping.
I know I need a SST or TOY640; however, unfortunately it will take days to ship to me... so I'd like a quick option (although at this point, I don't know if it exists). I read lots of DIYs, threads, FAQs and while I grasped that it would be difficult to get off... I can't find anyone mentioning this kind of hell.
So I started at 3:30pm, its now 6:30pm and all I have is an undrive-able car with no oil sitting on jackstands
01-15-10, 04:14 PM
#32
After having been under my car for three full hours... if an SST truck (think ice cream truck), would have driven by me at the time.... I'd have paid $159.99 for it. Hell, I've spent over $59 on all the cheap ones I broke.
I might just shoot down to Lexus of Orlando in the AM and get it.
The money isn't really an issue... more of a principal thing. Somehow that always seems to cause me trouble
I just read so many posts where folks indicated it might be hard to get off, but most were successful using even a $5 "F" wrench.
Last edited by YoungMoney; 01-15-10 at 04:17 PM.
01-15-10, 04:22 PM
#33
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yeah i know what u mean. The first time was a B$#@$ to get off, but once i got the toy640 it was easy. Now i don't really even need the tool and can do it by hand. If you can wait they're like 50% cheaper on ebay...
01-15-10, 04:36 PM
#34
I don't like seeing my car in the parking lot on jack stands, especially for 5 days. Feels a bit too ghetto
01-15-10, 04:45 PM
#36
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Because the car is designed by bean counters, not engineers. They save on the manufacturing cost for the extra whatever for that nut on the filter housing, and then they can sell you a $5 cap wrench for $60.
01-15-10, 04:46 PM
#37
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if the IS350 oil fiter housing is the same as the IS250, I use a long ratchet extention and put one end to lip on the housing cover that rotates and bang the other end with a mallet to break it loose.
Once I see it rotate, I take huge adjustable pliers and unscrew. No need for any fancy proprietary tools. Just a waste of $ if you ask me.
To tighten just repeat the process backwards. Simple.
Also, you can run the filter for another oil change but anything past that would be questionable. Depends on how dirty your oil is and how much crap clogs up the filter. Running synthetic or conventional oil doesnt make a difference, the filter will still clog up and become inefficent, maybe even cause your oil pressure to increase at one point and starve another point.
Once I see it rotate, I take huge adjustable pliers and unscrew. No need for any fancy proprietary tools. Just a waste of $ if you ask me.
To tighten just repeat the process backwards. Simple.
Also, you can run the filter for another oil change but anything past that would be questionable. Depends on how dirty your oil is and how much crap clogs up the filter. Running synthetic or conventional oil doesnt make a difference, the filter will still clog up and become inefficent, maybe even cause your oil pressure to increase at one point and starve another point.
01-15-10, 04:54 PM
#38
Gotta use a filter wrench... I've just unfortunately broke 4 trying.As far as I know if I fill the car up with oil, leaving the filter... then drive it to a place that I can get the tool at or get it removed.
Is it correct that only < 1Qt of oil should come out once the filter is removed?
If that's the case, then I'll just fill it up now then add whatever drains from the filter change.
Is that right?
01-15-10, 05:04 PM
#40
I suppose I gotta pay the price for not getting a better wrench earlier in the game
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-AS.../dp/B0015PK3AG
http://www.toolsource.com/0922806501-toyota-lexus-scion-filter-wrench-64mm-p-
100298.html
Actual SST from the dealer should be $59
Might be cheaper at Toyota and be the exact same thing. Can anyone verify?
01-15-10, 07:07 PM
#42
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I think the incredible hulk did my last oil change... because I cannot get the filter housing loose.
I didn't just go out there and "give it a shot" either... I've literally been attempting to open this filter housing for 3 hours. Nothing I used could get it to budge.
#1 - "F" wrench from autozone, (POS I know). Broke within 1 minute.
#2,3,4 - Another generic 64mm wrench. I actually bought three just in case any broke... they all did. Well 1 broke and the other two just stretched out and will spin around the filter with any pressure.
#5 - Strap oil filter wrench... not budging.
Wtf? At this point I've put 200 scratched in the housing, it's likely stripped to hell and back as well. Very disappointing, but after about 2 hours I just lost it and tried 10 times in a row to get it off with a wrench I knew was slipping.
I know I need a SST or TOY640; however, unfortunately it will take days to ship to me... so I'd like a quick option (although at this point, I don't know if it exists). I read lots of DIYs, threads, FAQs and while I grasped that it would be difficult to get off... I can't find anyone mentioning this kind of hell.
So I started at 3:30pm, its now 6:30pm and all I have is an undrive-able car with no oil sitting on jackstands
I didn't just go out there and "give it a shot" either... I've literally been attempting to open this filter housing for 3 hours. Nothing I used could get it to budge.
#1 - "F" wrench from autozone, (POS I know). Broke within 1 minute.
#2,3,4 - Another generic 64mm wrench. I actually bought three just in case any broke... they all did. Well 1 broke and the other two just stretched out and will spin around the filter with any pressure.
#5 - Strap oil filter wrench... not budging.
Wtf? At this point I've put 200 scratched in the housing, it's likely stripped to hell and back as well. Very disappointing, but after about 2 hours I just lost it and tried 10 times in a row to get it off with a wrench I knew was slipping.
I know I need a SST or TOY640; however, unfortunately it will take days to ship to me... so I'd like a quick option (although at this point, I don't know if it exists). I read lots of DIYs, threads, FAQs and while I grasped that it would be difficult to get off... I can't find anyone mentioning this kind of hell.
So I started at 3:30pm, its now 6:30pm and all I have is an undrive-able car with no oil sitting on jackstands
01-15-10, 07:14 PM
#43
A very good question. I was actually going to include that in my first post... but, yes I'm definitely turning it the right way.
With it being as hard to get loose as it was, I literally checked CL, google, the filter box about 10 times to make sure I wasn't trying to get it backwards.
I wish that was the case though
With it being as hard to get loose as it was, I literally checked CL, google, the filter box about 10 times to make sure I wasn't trying to get it backwards.
I wish that was the case though
01-16-10, 11:58 AM
#44
Just wanted to update...
I went to Toyota this morning and bought the official TOY640 filter wrench. It's $59 at Lexus, but only $25 at Toyota (identical wrench).
I also had to buy a 24mm socket and a 3/8 to 1/2 drive converter.
After failing for 4 hours yesterday, I take my new setup outside (with my fingers crossed). Get it attached, give it one firm turn... and boom, came right off!
For me it was apparently all about the quality bit. At least it's done
*****Edit - OK, so I fully drained the oil via the plug.
The car was front jacked, then lowered to level and raised back up... any oil that was going to drain should have. I also let all the oil drain from the filter housing.
I put about 6.2 quarts of Mobile 1 Synthetic into the engine and checked the dipstick... waaay overfull. Like almost an inch above the full mark on the dipstick.
This was cold after lowering the car. I also ran it for 2-3 mins and checked again. It ran fine, but still overfull.
Any ideas why? Do I just need to wait it out, or should I get back under this beast and drain some out?
Any help is very much appreciated... don't want to drive it till I get a clear answer. Thanks!
I went to Toyota this morning and bought the official TOY640 filter wrench. It's $59 at Lexus, but only $25 at Toyota (identical wrench).
I also had to buy a 24mm socket and a 3/8 to 1/2 drive converter.
After failing for 4 hours yesterday, I take my new setup outside (with my fingers crossed). Get it attached, give it one firm turn... and boom, came right off!
For me it was apparently all about the quality bit. At least it's done
*****Edit - OK, so I fully drained the oil via the plug.
The car was front jacked, then lowered to level and raised back up... any oil that was going to drain should have. I also let all the oil drain from the filter housing.
I put about 6.2 quarts of Mobile 1 Synthetic into the engine and checked the dipstick... waaay overfull. Like almost an inch above the full mark on the dipstick.
This was cold after lowering the car. I also ran it for 2-3 mins and checked again. It ran fine, but still overfull.
Any ideas why? Do I just need to wait it out, or should I get back under this beast and drain some out?
Any help is very much appreciated... don't want to drive it till I get a clear answer. Thanks!
Last edited by YoungMoney; 01-16-10 at 12:07 PM.
01-16-10, 12:10 PM
#45
Tech Info Resource
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Use a clear vinyl tube, go down the dipstick hole, and suck out the excess. Pulling the drain plug will not be the easy way at all. If you have a vacuum source, you can suck out the oil, if you don't, go to a Feed Store or Veterinary supply and get an irrigation syringe - they hold 60cc - and use it with the clear tubing to suck out the excess.
Too much oil means your crankshaft is hitting the surface of the oil in the sump and turning it into mousse. Mousse is very bad for rod bearings because its more air than oil. You really need to get the excess out.
Too much oil means your crankshaft is hitting the surface of the oil in the sump and turning it into mousse. Mousse is very bad for rod bearings because its more air than oil. You really need to get the excess out.